|
Updated
23rd July 2010
Indian
Books
&
Restaurant Reviews
Complete Indian Cooking
Tandav Indian Restaurant
Busaba
Cocum – Keralan restaurant
Zan Zi Bar Pub and
Restaurant
Chai Bazaar at Chor
Bizarre
Regional Cooking of
India
Bombay Bistro
Massala Indian Dining
Indian Zing
Mridula Baljekar’s
Chutneys
Mango Lounge – Windsor
The Cinnamon Club
Seafood Cookbook
Rasoi: New Indian Kitchen
50 Great Curries of India
Maharaja
– Heritage of Princely India
Diwali Dreams
La Porte des Indes Cookbook
Dal and Kadhi
Royal Hyderabadi Cooking
Low Calorie Vegetarian
Cookbook
Rice, Spice and All
Things Nice
The Sari
660 Curries Gateway
to Indian Cooking
Khazana of Indian Recipes
India – The Ultimate
Sights, Places
Gardens of Delight
–Indian Gardens
Virtual Dinner for
Modern Spice
Modern Spice
An Indian Kitchen
The Cinnamon Club Cookbook
Made in India
Bollywood Posters
Raghu Rai’s Delhi
Easy Indian Cookbook
India Color
Rajasthan – Lonely Planet
Anjum's New Indian
Contemporary Indian Cuisine
Feeding the Gods
India Food and Cooking
The Indian Kitchen
Healthy
Indian Cooking for Diabetes
India
Korean
Books
&
Articles
Eating Korean
A
Celebration of Korea’s Finest Cuisine
The Complete Book
of Korean Cooking
Quick and Easy
Korean Cooking
Korea – Lonely Planet
Korean
Cuisine – An illustrated history
Chinese
Books
&
Restaurants
Goldfish
Leong’s Legend Taiwan
restaurant
Martin Yan’s China
Ching’s Chinese Food in
Minutes
Shanghai City Guide
– Lonely Planet
Bamboo A
Journey with Chinese Food
Japanese
Books
&
Restaurants
Appetizer Rex -
Easy
Japanese Cooking
Veggie
Haven – Easy Japanese Cooking
Japanese Cooking – A
Simple Art
Bento Love - Easy
Japanese Cooking
Donburi Mania –
Easy Japanese Cooking
Food of Japan
Japan – Eyewitness Travel
Sushi
Other
Asian
Books
&
Restaurants
Nipa Thai Restaurant
The Eastern and
Oriental Cookbook
The Real Taste of Indonesia
Wing Yip – Gifts for
the New Year
The Bazaars of Istanbul
Asian Flavours – Kitchen Classics
Into the Vietnamese
Kitchen
The Blue Elephant Cookbook
The Asian Grill
Noodles Every Day
Scent of the Monsoon Winds
The Complete Asian Cookbook
The Chopsticks Diet
Thailand – A World of
Flavours
Balance & Harmony –
Asian Food
Some
favourite
people
Alan Coxon
Anissa Helou
Antony Worrall Thompson
Bill
Buckley
Celia Brooks Brown
Chef Paul Bocuse
David Rosengarten
Glynn Christian
Jancis Robinson
Jekka McVicar
Jeni Barnett's blog
Lotte Duncan
Manju Malhi
Monisha Bharadwaj
Some
favourite
publishers
Alison Hodge Publishers
Anova Books
Apple Press
Appletree Press
Black and White
Publishing
Book Guild Publishing
David and Charles
Publishers
Dorling Kindersley
Duncan Baird Publishers
Footprint Books
Foulsham Publishing
Grub Street
Kyle Cathie Publishers
Lonely Planet
Reaktion Books
Rough Guides
|
Monisha Bharadwaj
has perhaps the most successful Indian cooking school in London. She
has written numerous popular cookbooks and is
recognised as an authority on Indian food.
'Healthy Indian in
Minutes' Now Released!
Visit Cooking
with Monisha for more information or you can
email Monisha at monishabharadwaj@hotmail.com.
11 September 11.30am-1.30pm
14 September 7-10pm
18 September 3-6pm
28 September 7-10pm
2 October 3-6pm
5 October 7-10pm
16 October 3-6pm
26 October 7-10pm
30 October 2-4pm
9 November 7-10pm
20 November 3-6pm
27 November 3-6pm
4 December 2-4pm |
Indian Food Walk
Indian Homestyle Cooking NEW!
Easy Indian Curries-using spices cleverly
Indian in 6 - 6 Spices and 6 Dishes
Indian Breads
Stylish Indian in Minutes
Easy Indian Curries-using spices cleverly
Flavours of Kerala
Diwali Food Walk
Restaurant Curries NEW!
Indian Vegetarian
Easy Indian Curries-using spices cleverly
Food Walk- Buying Christmas Presents
|
- Kay Cooks
And the particular Kay in question is none other than Kay Plunkett Hogge. She has the most
marvellous and amusing site at http://www.kayplunketthogge.com/
that will tempt you to take one of her celebrated Thai cooking classes
at your place or hers. (The Financial Times Weekend featured her Thai
cookery classes as a Top Pick for foodie Christmas presents.)
Kay was born and raised in Thailand and offers food tours of that
lovely country. She speaks the language and also has an idea of what
tourists want from a foodie holiday. You could not be in safer hands.
Here is a short item from Kay to whet your culinary and voyaging
appetite:
Neon Lights and Northern Bites…
When I have been away from Thailand for a while, I
forget how
incredibly beautiful she is: the ruby Andaman skies, the startling
greens that bruise your eyes, the darkening grey-to-black of
approaching rain, the thrumming hum and the cracking clouds of the
monsoon that almost obliterate whole mountain ranges.
Even neon signs through the Bangkok smog have a beauty of sorts, as
they are usually portents of FOOD AHOY!
I have to say, I believe there is a direct correlation between neon
lights and great food. Yes, I do. You’ll find some of the very best
dishes served up at little hole in the wall joints with bright
fluorescent light, a couple of woks, maybe a grill and table after
table of happy diners. Some of them don’t even have names. So: a tip —
head for the brightest light and the biggest lounge of small lizards
surrounding it. Oh, and customers too. Good food, guaranteed by Kay
Cooks.
But it was in the North of Thailand that I found myself recently,
ostensibly to visit my elephant. Well. OK. He’s not MINE exactly. I was
part of a movie crew shooting in these parts oooh… about 15 years ago
now. We rescued him, a 5 year old orphan whom we named Bo That after
the elephant in the film (that particular Pachyderm hailing from
Hollywood itself, but there’s another story, for another day).
We sent him to the Elephant Conservation Centre in Lampang, where he
has become a strapping, if somewhat
stroppy bull elephant. In fact, on this last trip I discovered he’d
been prescribed some ‘time out’ on his own in the forest. So picture,
if you will, a 60cc bike with Tam (Bo That’s mahout) myself AND Fred on
the back, trundling over potholes, splashing mud and Lord knows what
else all over ourselves. Just to go and see my boy and give him a big
bushel of bamboo and his favorite treat — sugar cane. Oh, joy!
There was plenty of time to eat too. If someone made me choose which
region of Thailand I prefer in terms of food… well, I would have to
either take the 5th or jump off a cliff. I could not choose. They are
all unique and have their own definitive flavours. Here in the Northern
provinces the food is spicy and piquant, sometimes with a Burmese and
Laotian influence. Lots of yums (salads), green papaya, green mango,
and fried river fish. Bamboo shoots all spiked through with palm sugar,
lime juice, fish sauce, toasted ground rice, chillies and nuts, and
finished with a little mint and coriander. Yum indeed.
There’s sticky rice too, to be rolled in balls between your fingertips
and dipped into a multitude of sauces and nam priks. Sausages flavoured
with lemon grass and galangal, grilled to a shiny brown. Raw herbs and
vegetables — morning glory, mint, holy basil, sweet basil, yard beans,
wing beans, white cabbage, tiny baby aubergines, cucumbers, acacia
leaves — and tons of good old pork scratchings. Gaeng Hang Lay — pork
and curry and pickled garlic and ginger. Grilled chicken for
days.
And there’s Kow Soi, a noodle dish — some would say the noodle dish —
of the region: a soupy, curried sauce that arrived here via Burma and
Laos with more than a hint of the Indian merchants who plied their
trade on the spice route — curry powder and turmeric jostling with the
coconut milk, lime juice and fish sauce — served atop a bowl of noodles
and crowned with shallots, pickled cabbage, crispy deep fried noodles,
chilli paste and another big squeeze of lime. Bliss. I once ate four
bowls at a sitting and had to be carried back to my lodgings. Not a
good look, but oh, so worth it!
I could go on. And on and on. But there’s only so much room on a page…
You’ll have to tune in to kaycooks.com for more…
- Bangladesh Caterers’
Association
AWARDS 2010 LAUNCHED DURING MILESTONE YEAR FOR CURRY INDUSTRY
Exciting roadmap of year-long celebrations and activities to mark 50
years of BCA and 200 years since the UK curry industry was launched in
UK
Nominations opened to find UK’s best Asian restaurant and restaurateur
On Thursday 1st July, UK’s only pressure group for the nation’s
burgeoning curry industry, Bangladesh Caterers’ Association (BCA),
announced a series of year-long celebratory events to mark 50 glorious
years since BCA’s inception and the 200th year since the first ever
curry restaurant opened its doors to the UK public.
The 50th anniversary events will provide the perfect opportunity for
the industry organisation to celebrate its heritage, highlighting over
five decades of unfettered commitment, extensive government lobbying
and phenomenal achievement in creating and protecting what has gone on
to become the nation’s favourite dish. At the same time, the
anniversary celebration at this year’s award ceremony will serve to
highlight the challenges the curry industry and its dependent
communities currently face, as they collectively look forward to the
next 50 years of business in UK and servicing the majority of UK diners.
Events include a nationwide roadshow highlighting the stronghold of the
UK curry industry as well as the annual BCA Awards
2010, a prestigious event which aims to uncover the most outstanding
Asian restaurants at this year’s awards ceremony. Taking place in
October 2010, nominations for the BCA Awards formally opened at an
exclusive luncheon hosted by Bengal Clipper, London SE1.
Lord Bilimoria: “2010
is a very special year for three reasons: the 200th anniversary of
curry in this country; the 20th anniversary of Cobra Beer in this
country; and of course the 50th anniversary of BCA. If you can just
imagine what this industry has achieved, going into every town, village
and city as pioneer entrepreneurs, and has also put back. This
immigration community has enriched the country.”
The BCA represents 12,000
British-Bangladeshi restaurants across the UK and was
established in 1960 to represent the Catering Industry run by the
ethnic Bangladeshis. At present, the industry employs more than 100,000
people, mostly Bangladeshi in origin, with an estimated yearly turnover
of £4 billion.
- Join award-winning cookbook author Corinne Trang, a celebrated expert
on Asian cuisine, as she guides you through New York
City's
Chinatown demystifying the world of Asian ingredients. You'll discover
markets specializing in dried seafood, bird's nests, and more, and meet
an herbalist. You'll visit a typical Asian supermarket and vegetable
stand where condiments and produce will be identified and tips on
proper storage and use will be revealed. You'll taste all sorts of
dumplings, northern style pulled noodles, Southeast Asian beef jerky,
and Asian-style ice cream including black sesame and lychee. The tour
will also include a Taiwanese tea service. Bring an open mind and an
appetite!
Tours are scheduled every Wednesday starting the first week of July,
from 10 AM to 2 PM (unless otherwise noted) for a minimum of 8 and
maximum of 10 people. (Please note: autographed copies of Essentials of
Asian Cuisine, The Asian Grill (2006), and Noodles Every Day (2009) are
extra and available at a discounted price.) For more information
including cost or to arrange a private group tour, please email
ct@corinnetrang.com. Also feel free to browse through the website at http://www.corinnetrang.com/
Complete Indian Cooking
No complaints from this cookbook reviewer. This is just
the kind of book that I seek out and enjoy. Practical, that’s the word.
Colourful
and informative and presenting easy-to-follow recipes.
Southwater (an imprint of Anness Publishing) offers the style of books
that will be used and enjoyed and that should surely be the very reason
for buying the volume in the first place.
Mridula Baljekar has long been respected by the UK-based Asian food
industry. She has penned numerous cookbooks, received awards and
plaudits and continues as a successful author, and has added her own
range of pickles to her span of achievements. Mridula is joined by
three others: Rafi Fernandez is a prolific author of Indian cookbooks.
Shehzad Husain is the Marks and Spencer consultant for Indian foods.
She has several Indian cookbooks to her credit as well as contributions
to food-related magazines. Manisha Kamani is a freelance home economist
and has written regularly for Family Circle, and worked as a food
demonstrator.
Complete Indian Cooking is a chunky stunner. It presents 325 recipes
and over 1800 pictures, the majority of which are step-by-step guides.
I am an experienced home cook but even I still find this format to be
comforting. A novice to kitchen pursuits will find those photographs a
great help. Yes, the recipes are for the most part simple, but a
picture paints a thousand words.
Mughlai-style Chicken is a rich royal dish laced with cream, almonds
and saffron, ingredients often found in Nizani Mogul cuisine. Another
star chicken dish finds the bird in an orange and black pepper sauce
which is thick and creamy. The pepper gives aromatic heat.
Okra is an under-rated vegetable. It’s used extensively in India but
it’s a relative newcomer to the European greengrocers’ shelves. Okra in
Yogurt is mild and can be used as a side dish or as a main meal for
vegetarians. Serve with a dhal and either rice or Indian bread.
South Indian food is gaining popularity in London. Many of us have
travelled to Goa for long-haul breaks and there are more restaurants
specialising in the dishes of Kerala. This book includes Goan Fish
Cakes, which can be made from haddock but also the cheaper coley or
whiting. These make an attractive and flavourful starter served with
lemon wedges and your favourite chilli sauce.
Complete Indian Cooking is a book for those who want to learn and to
cook. It’s a lovely book to look at, but it would be a shame if it
remained decorating your bookshelves. Buy it and use it. Amazing value
for money.
Cookbook review: Complete Indian Cooking
Authors: Mridula Baljekar, Rafi Fernandez, Shehzad Husain, Manisha
Kamani
Published by: Southwater
Price: £12.99
ISBN-13: 978-1-84476-894-3
Goldfish – Chinese fine dining in the
City
The restaurant is just a few weeks old and graces the
former Hi Sushi site. It’s a sister of the Goldfish which has become
a
successful
Hampstead institution. It’s entertained the affluent
residents of that classy suburb as well as a clutch of celebs.
This is a classic City stomping-ground near Bank. Both the
architecture and the pedestrians speak of solid international business
which seems to be weathering the financial storm judging by the packed
lunch-time tables. Goldfish caters for high quality and fast turn-over
during the day, although the evening meals are taken at a much more
leisurely pace.
The ground floor restaurant is crisp and thoughtful. A mural of a1930’s
Shanghai-esque advertisement adds an air of sophistication. A wall
embossed with Chinese calligraphy contrives to be both contemporary and
traditional. A screen of back-lit coloured glass with the iconic
goldfish subtly illuminates the main restaurant area. There is a
basement bar and karaoke booth for those night revellers, but the food
is the draw here.
Goldfish is new but it has already scored a host of regulars. Many of
our fellow diners were evidently ’something in the City’,
and
there
were a good number of Oriental faces amongst them. They
were evidently satisfied with their meal and I am sure they know more
about that cuisine than do I. That was reassuring.

Head chef Kevin Chow (previously of Cocoon) has a focus on
fish, seafood and innovation. The dim sum are the most delicate I have
encountered to date. The wrappers were thin and translucent rather than
stodgy and rib-sticking which is more the norm for lesser restaurants.
The dim sum selection steamer is prawn-based, although lunch guests
have a wider range, including chicken feet which are not one bit
challenging and should be tried. It’s about texture as much as flavour.
Order a few dim sum as a starter.
The menu is shorter than many run-of-the mill Chinese restaurant menus
but it is no worse for that. There’s the popular dim sum for the lunch
crowd and there is a smaller selection for the evening diners. It is
after all considered more traditionally for brunch. There is the
convenient Bento Box (an ingenious reminder of the previous Japanese
incarnation) for those who want fast food without the fast-food
mediocrity. The main menu, which is available for both lunchtime and
dinner, deserves to be lingered over.
But it was lunch time and I took advantage of the Bento boxes, or at
least one of them. The black lacquered sectioned box presented a full
meal of rice, vegetable side dish, soy sauce, roast duck and char siu
pork. The duck was tender, moist and flavourful and the pork was
aromatic and pink with marinade. Made fresh every day, it’s an iconic
Chinese dish.
My guest ordered wok-fried sliced beef. This proved to be a stunner.
The meat was succulent and spiked with fresh black pepper. It is cooked
fresh with the sauce rather than being pre-cooked, left hanging about,
then re-heated. It’s the attention to detail and striving for a
remarkable dish that sets Goldfish apart.
Crispy Prawn was a revelation. The saffron-coloured mayo coated seafood
that was enrobed in a delicate batter. A dice of mango gave a sweet
counterpoint to the citrus edge of the sauce. This must surely be
unique to Goldfish. The prawns were served on a lacquered pine platter
- perhaps another donation from the Goldfish’s Japanese forebear.
I have often found Chinese food to be rather lack-lustre. Goldfish
presents a menu that offers a palatable melange of both tradition and
innovation. The service is attentive and charming, the ambiance is
vibrant and contemporary, but it’s the food which will ensure return
visits. If Goldfish maintains its high standard then success is assured.
Goldfish Restaurant
46 Gresham Street, Bank, London EC2V 7AY
Phone: 020 7726 0308
Visit Goldfish here
Tandav Indian
Restaurant
The Kerala Group was started by Mr. Haridas, more than 30
years ago. Often described as impresario, restaurateur and
philanthropist, he started his career at the Indian High Commission in
London and the Lions Group of restaurants. He now owns 12 restaurants
and catering businesses in the UK specialising in Keralan South Indian
cuisine.
In 2003 Mr Haridas was presented with the prestigious national honour
called the “Hind Ratan Award” for services to India in the realm of
tourism. His work in the promotion of Kerala, also known as God’s own
country, has been marked by him receiving the Tourism Man of the Year
in 1999 from the Chief Minister of Kerala. He is the founder and
general secretary of The Global Kerala Foundation and is most famously
known as the “cultural ambassador for Kerala”. He also heads the Onam
Festival, Kerala Tourism Festival, India Week, Soorya Festival and
other programmes promoting Kerala and India in the UK. His services to
India and most particularly to Kerala have been appreciated by the
Asian community in the UK for which he was nominated for “Asian Who’s
Who of Britain’s Business Elite 2002”. Tandav is the latest of the
Kerala Group restaurants and we were expecting something special.
The food might be enticing but Sutton High Street
is
just
a rather dull thoroughfare. It’s the order of neighbourhood
whose allure is lost on all but those born and brought up here. It
seemed a mighty long way from West London, although it does have good
transport links from Kingston, Tooting and Croydon.
Tandav is a newly refurbished Indian restaurant which now offers a
melange of both North and South Indian food. Its decor is interesting
with purple patterned wallpaper and orange accents in the guise of
tablecloths and serviettes. Perhaps purple table linen might have
worked a little better but the overall impression is striking.
We perused the bill of fare and sought out some interesting South
Indian specialities. Do try these as they offer a glimpse of a truly
different cuisine from that more often found in run-of-the-mill Indian
restaurants.
Iddly are small steamed cakes made of rice and black gram lentils. They
are typically South Indian and are often served at breakfast along with
sambar and coconut chutney. A great starter for those who love the
spongy texture. They are bland alone but the sambar spiked things up.
Chicken 65 is a spicy deep-fried chicken dish popular all over India
these days. It’s listed here as either a starter or main and
is a speciality. I have seen recipes for Chicken 65 (the origin of the
name is lost in the mists of time and everyone I have ever spoken to
has a theory), but this was the first time I had encountered it on a
menu. The vibrant flavour comes from ginger, cayenne pepper and mustard
powder. You’ll need a healthy appetite if you want to enjoy both this
and a main course. It’s substantial and moreish.
Erachi Ulathiyathu is a signature dish here. It was devised by Vaishak
Nair who has recently taken charge of the group from his father, the
aforementioned Mr Haridas. It is described as “lamb cooked in a way you
have never seen before”. Well, the method is indeed quite unique and is
a two-part process of meat-cooking and coconut-roasting. The end result
was a striking dish of tender lamb with an almost barbecued flavour and
a bite of pepper. Well worth ordering. It’s evident that Vaishak has an
eye for both tradition and innovation.
Fish Molie is a celebrated South Indian dish. In this version king fish
is cooked in coconut milk with spices, tomatoes, curry leaves and
pepper sauce. It’s a rich and sunny preparation without the overtly
fishy taste which can be off-putting to those who know that fish is a
health food but who are still not charmed by unfamiliar flavours.
Tandav is bound to be a success if it can educate the locals to expect
something a little different from the standard and rather banal curries
of the more common Indian restaurants. South Indian cooking is
liberally laced with the sunshine of that coastal region, with the
fruit of the evocative palm and the bounty from the sea. Dive in and
enjoy some fascinating dishes.
Tandav
260 High Street, Sutton, SM1 1PG
Phone: 020 8642 1833
Visit Tandav here
Opening Hours
Sunday - Thursday: 12.00pm - 3.00pm for lunch; 6.00pm - 11.00pm for
dinner
Friday – Saturday: 12.00pm - 3.00pm for lunch; 6.00pm - 12.00pm for
dinner
Busaba
– Eathai – Panton Street
Busaba – Eathai. Yes it’s a chain of restaurants
but it’s a small one. It carries none of the trappings of typical mid-range
chain restaurants but rather each of its establishments has the air of
a
well-loved, well-designed, one-off traditional Thai restaurant.
I found the newest addition to the
portfolio on Panton
Street in London’s West End. It’s a stone’s throw from both Piccadilly
Circus
and Leicester Square, with their cinemas and theatres, but it’s hidden
on a
quiet side road. Its location is prime, if one only knew it was there.
It’s
only been open a few months and it’s already becoming the regular haunt
of
those who want great Thai food sans mortgage.
It’s stunning. A large restaurant
with teak as its over-riding
theme. The walls are covered. The pillars are covered. The tables are
large,
square 10-seaters in solid teak, paired with benches. There are
deep-set
windows punctuating the restaurant’s outside walls and these offer
nooks for
parties of two or three. The solid wood stools add to the subtle but
evocative
ambiance.
Busaba on Panton Street is
unmistakably Thai but it
isn’t over themed. There are no extraneous decorations. No pictures of
Thai
elephants adorn these walls. It’s the acceptable face of minimalist,
but the
materials, or in this case material, namely teak, speaks for itself.
It’s warm
chic-rustic and charming.
But a reviewer cannot live by wall
treatments
alone. Would the food realise what the décor had promised? Well,
in a nutshell,
yes it did. I was expecting a rather fast-foodie approach which is the
result
of my not always justified attitude to chain restaurants. A look at
this
particular restaurant had persuaded me that Busaba could offer a
surprise or
two. In fact it offered more than that. Chef Krit Sangsida, known as
Jude, is
the creator of the menu here.
It offers a good number of celebrated
Thai dishes
along with some innovations. We ordered the ubiquitous Pad Thai - rice
noodle
with prawn, dried shrimp, tofu, egg, peanut, beansprout and lime with a
garnish
of crushed peanuts. A good solid example of its genre.
Green chicken curry is another
standard but this
one packed a punch. The chilli-induced heat was appropriately evident but the
aromatics
still shone, giving a flavourful light sauce strewn with chunks of meat
and the
miniature Thai green pea aubergines which resemble capers.
Duck in tamarind sauce with Chinese
broccoli was
memorable and a must-try on those days when you don’t mind choosing one
of the
high-end dishes. The duck was cooked to pink and juicy perfection and
the
char-grilled flavour was unmistakable. The tamarind sauce could more
reasonably
be described as a delicate dressing, and complemented the meat.
Pandan chicken with garlic and
coriander root wrapped
in pandan leaf has a spectacular presentation. Pyramids of green and
glossy
leaf bundles stuffed with some of the best chicken I have tasted.
Visually
appealing and gastronomically moreish. Nothing bland and flabby here. A
signature dish if ever there was one.
Thai calamari with ginger and
peppercorn was a bowl
of seafood that I would order time and time again. Yes, it is that
good. Squid
can so easily transform itself into rubber. It demands cooking at a
high heat
or it steams in its own juices. This example was expertly cooked by
chef
Sanjeev. A sweet and delicious coating with a slight crunch. It’s a
dish to
nibble on and linger over.
Coconut rice completed our meal and
even this
simple staple was served with style. Packed into a lidded bamboo tube
it looked
every bit like part of a picnic for a day in the Thai jungle. An ethnic
and
practical serving solution.
Ginger and honey tea, and Pandan leaf
tea, served
with cashew and coconut cookies concluded our visit. Delicately
flavoured and
piping hot, these drinks were refreshing palate-cleansers on a warm
sticky day. If
it had not been for the cityscape outside those windows we could have
thought
ourselves in a smart eatery in Thailand. Perhaps Busaba is the
affordable
alternative.
Opening Times
Monday–Thursday 12 noon–11.00pm
Friday–Saturday 12 noon–11.30pm
Sunday 12 noon–10.00pm
Asian restaurant review: Busaba –
Eathai – Panton Street
35 Panton Street, Westminster, London
SW1Y 4EA
Phone: 020 7930 0088
email: mail@busaba.com
Visit Busaba here
Leong’s
Legend
Taiwan
restaurant
in
Bayswater
The restaurant’s name Leong’s Legend is inspired by one of
the most popular Chinese novels, The Water Margin, which features 107
heroes who gathered at Leong Mountain to fight a corrupt government
during the Song dynasty, a thousand years or so ago. There was the cult
70s TV series called The Water Margin (sometimes called The Rebels of
Liang Shang Po) which was set in China, made in Japan, dubbed into
English but despite that it held millions of viewers riveted to their
TV sets. Lin Chung, played by the handsome Atsuo Nakamura, was the
Robin Hood-like lead character. Our Leong’s Legend is, however, found a
little nearer home in the buzzy streets of Bayswater.
The restaurant is a vision of dark-wood slatted partitions and low-hung
lamps with rattan shades. It is said to be reminiscent of traditional
Chinese drinking dens. Quite a bit more charismatic than our
equivalent. Murals of the aforementioned good-guys decorate the walls.
A rack of martial arts weaponry adds to the ancient Chinese theme and
discourages anyone from doing a runner before the bill arrives. The
prices are so reasonable here that it’s not a
likely scenario, although I’ll mention that a few of the spears seemed
to be missing!
The stories of oriental daring-do are fascinating but
you’ll visit for the food. We settled ourselves into one of the
screened booths and pondered the menu. There was so much that was new.
I guarantee that you’ll find dishes here that are scarcely found
outside the Leong's Legend Group. (There are a couple of sister
restaurants in Chinatown.) Take the opportunity to taste these dishes
to expand your epicurean horizons from China across that other water
margin to the island of Taiwan.
Not only are the prices here competitive but the portions are
substantial. Our neighbours were tucking into the Fried Bread Casket
which looked intriguing. We will return to sample that on a future
visit. We ordered Legend's Siu Loung Bao as a starter.
These were 8 large steamed dumplings with a dipping sauce.
Rib-stickingly delicious and of the genre of dim sum with the integral
stock bathing the filling. Bite with caution and let that hot broth
baste your taste buds.
Kung Po Chicken has long been a favourite.
The Leong’s Legend version
was rich, glossy, red with whole chillies and vibrant
in flavour. It’s a robust dish in every way. The chunks of meat were
rustically chopped and large but moist and juicy. An ample scattering
of cashew nuts provided crunch. Spectacular and well worth trying if
you are a lover of chilli. Hot? Yes, but not overpoweringly so.
Taiwan Most Popular Omelette sounded promising. It’s a dinner-plate
sized omelette stuffed with seafood and vegetables. It has a totally
different texture from that of the eggy European omelette and was much
more hearty. It’s rather glutinous with a slightly crispy edge. Order
this to share as it’s more than a light side dish. It delivered filling
in every bite.
A celebrated dish here is the Quick Fried Diced Beef with Garlic
Slices. The cubes of meat were tender and well seasoned with freshly
ground black pepper. The slices of garlic were golden and crisp. A dish
to persuade any timid eaters that garlic doesn’t have to be pungent and
overwhelming. The cooking method here imparts a full yet mellow garlic
flavour.
Sticky Rice with Shredded Pork is a
traditional Taiwanese delicacy. It
has a comforting texture and is an ideal choice
for those who are less skilled at wielding chop sticks. The short-grain
rice is indeed sticky and has a unique texture. The
large timbale of rice is topped with melting and flavourful pork, slow
cooked with mushrooms. It’s an aromatic and memorable dish.
There wasn’t a lot of room left for dessert but we were tempted by the
Mango Pudding and Almond Cake. The mango was a sunny mould of pudding
with chunks of real fruit. The manager told us that it’s made fresh
every day from real fruit. I was expecting the Almond Cake to be, well,
a cake. It is in fact another variety of pudding. It’s white and creamy
with a distinct almond flavour and comes with a little dish of
evaporated milk as garnish. I don’t think it needs it.
Leong’s Legend Taiwan restaurant in Bayswater is the kind of restaurant
where one can relax with a degree of privacy. It’s a spot popular with
both Europeans and Chinese and that is surely a recommendation. It
offers excellent food and value for money.
Asian restaurant review:Leong’s Legend Bayswater
82 Queensway, Bayswater, London W2 3RL
Tel: 0207 221 2280
Visit Leong’s Legend here
Cocum - Keralan
Hampton Court
This amazing newcomer stands just by Hampton Court Bridge
on a quiet but classy side road away from the buzzing traffic and
hordes of tourists. But how disappointed those tourists will be to
learn that they might well have missed visiting a rather good Keralan
restaurant. Hampton Court has good transport links so those from nearer
than Dubuque Iowa or Tokyo have easy access.
This leafy corner of suburban Surrey is home to well-heeled and
discerning residents. They must be pleased to find a restaurant
offering food the equal of that of their habitual haunts in central
London. Cocum has already cultivated a good number of regulars who
appreciate its cuisine and its staff. Some have even brought gifts of
plants for the restaurant pots.
Cocum is just two months old but the paint is dry and the chef has
evidently settled into his kitchen in fine form. It’s a charming
restaurant with a bay window overlooking the street and towards the
bridge. Cool spearmint-green tablecloths and South Indian crafts offer
a light and summery ambiance but it’s the food that is the star here:
the restaurant is even named after the spice which is ubiquitous in
Keralan cuisine.
There is so much on this menu that will be unfamiliar to those more
used to the regular high-street Indian restaurant. Yes, there are some
favourite curries but you’ll be here at Cocum to enjoy the bounty of
the Keralan regional cuisine. Produce from both land and sea, and
showcasing the evocative coconut.
We started with papadoms and pickles.
Nothing unusual about that, one
might think. Well, actually, yes. These are not
the regulation pickles that one finds in most other Indian restaurants.
We were presented with a platter of home-made relishes. These change
every couple of weeks so even if you visit often you’ll find different
tangy delights to tingle your taste buds. We enjoyed shrimp, aubergine,
lime and garlic pickles along with a mint and yoghurt dip, served with
thin and crisp papad. This was the first time that either my guest or I
could remember clearing the pickle tray.
Dosa is a popular item on South Indian menus. It’s striking to behold
and fun to eat. I ordered the Mini Masala Dosai. A paper-thin crispy
pancake made from rice and black gram lentil, filled with potato and
spices and served with sambar and coconut chutney. It didn’t look very
mini but compared to the regular dosa it was starter-sized. The main
course version is a stunner and a very economic light meal for under
£5.
My companion was intrigued by Medhu Vada. These are soft doughnuts but
spiced rather than sweet. They are made from urid lentils, onion,
ginger and aromatic curry leaves, served with the traditional fresh
coconut chutney. He pronounced them to be delicious and well worth
trying. A triumph of texture and taste.
Main course for my guest was Lamb Uluva Kootu. This was the manager’s
suggestion and was a dish of great character. The large cubes of meat
were cooked to melting perfection and were enhanced by the flavourful
sauce of sautéed fenugreek leaves, cardamom,
garlic, ginger and green chillies. Not a fiery dish but plenty of
robust flavour. Okra Ullipoo was the side dish and would convert anyone
who had reservations about this exotic vegetable. The okra still had
good texture and was dressed in a silky sauce with the comforting
flavour of roasted coriander. An ideal main dish for a vegetarian.
I chose the Cochin Prawn Curry. This was a subtle dish of succulent and
very large prawns cooked with coconut and mild spices.
This should surely be a signature dish. It was one of the most
impressive seafood dishes I have eaten for a while. Beans Thoran was
the vegetable dish alongside and it had the kind of freshness more
often found in Indian home cooking. The green beans were vibrant and
flecked with onion and coconut. A delightful dish with simple clean
flavours.
Cocum offers a larger selection of desserts than most Indian
restaurants. We chose to share a bowl of Palpayasam. Yes, dear reader,
note that the portions are generous here so pace yourself if you want
to try the sweets. This dessert was a creamy light rice pudding
flavoured with cardamom and studded with raisins and cashew nuts. Two
spoons and cups of masala tea were all that was needed as we perused
the menu anew to plan for our next visit, for an encore is definitely
on the cards.
Opening hours:
Lunch: Noon to 3 pm
Dinner: 6pm to10.30pm, Friday and Saturday 6pm to 11.30pm
Asian restaurant review:Cocum
Restaurant
20, Bridge Road, Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey KT8 9HA
Phone: 020 8979 1531
Email: info@cocumrestaurant.co.uk
Zan Zi Bar Pub
and Restaurant
There are plenty of good restaurants in Central London.
Easy transport links and familiar territory, but there are sometimes
gems
to
be
found
at
the
far
reaches
of
the
tube
network. Edgware is the
terminus of the Northern Line and that was our destination one hot
summer evening.
Zan Zi Bar Pub and Restaurant is worth the ride. Yes, we travelled from
West London for the honour of eating there, but there are those who
have come from as far afield as Coventry. It seems this establishment
has a cult following and a sample or two from the menu will give you
the reason why. You’ll get something a lot more interesting than a limp
cheese sandwich and a packet of salt and vinegar crisps.
It’s a pub. A bar with plenty of space, light and airy with tables
sporting vinyl cloths. Several large TV screens for the sports fans and
Bollywood film devotees. The outside offers seating for those who want
to bask in the sun of the all-too-short English summer or even indulge
in smoking the increasingly sought-after Shisha. You might know it as a
hookah or water pipe offering a much more visually appealing smoke than
a packet of Marlborough. There is an enclosed courtyard at the back of
the pub for those seeking some alfresco dining or for the kids to play
in safety while the grown-ups enjoy a cocktail and some food.
It’s a restaurant. The atmosphere is casual and the staff friendly.
They are the winners of Customer Excellence Awards 2007/2008/2009. It
has its regulars, many of whom are Indians and that’s always a good
sign. Both the drinks and the food menus offer favourites and
innovation. Don’t let the informal surroundings fool you. You’ll find some
of
the
most
robust
and
striking
food
here.
The
owners,
Sameer
and
Sheetal Malik cut no corners. Zan Zi Bar has been their
passion for 9 years or so and their hard work has resulted in a truly
unique concept - and it works.
Zan Zi Bar has a good selection of non-alcoholic cocktails. I chose the
Fresh Lime Soda with salt. (The wine menu has a very decent house red
for under £13 a bottle and £4.30 by the 250ml glass.)
Clean-tasting and thirst-quenching, and helped down by a large bowl of
spiced peanuts. It’s seldom you’ll find a restaurant reviewer
mentioning the bits that go with drinks, but these were exceptional.
Those over-salted and stale snacks offered as nibbles in lesser
establishments have been banished and replaced by a dish that could be
addictive. Fresh unsalted peanuts with onion, chillies and spices
combined to create a sweet, hot, crunchy introduction to the
temptations to follow.
Chicken in an Egg-Roll Wrap is such a popular item here that it is
requested even when it’s been taken off the menu. This is a substantial
and moreish Indian burrito stuffed with chopped chicken and tangy
sauce. Chef J.P. Bhatt presents delicious
and
inspired
dishes
and
that
should
be
no
surprise,
as
he
has worked
for India's famed Taj hotel group which has sired so many of London’s
best Indian chefs.
Dal Bhajia Chaat is a must-try vegetarian starter. Light and fluffy
lentil dumplings bathed in traditional yoghurt and tamarind
with
a
garnish
of
fresh
coriander;
but
for
carnivores
the
Chicken
Tikka
on the bone is a sizzling rendition of the Indian restaurant favourite,
but a cut above. Succulent meat and tantalising aroma will get the
taste buds working. Tandoori King Prawns were juicy and flavourful and
indeed king-sized, aromatic with a bite of heat.
Chicken Bhuna has long been one of the most requested dishes at Zan Zi
Bar. The meat was tender and the sauce vibrant. Dal Makhni made a rich
and creamy side dish. A comfort food in every regard. Just the addition
of some freshly made breads completed a memorable meal that could shame
some celebrated high-end restaurants.
It’s a neighbourhood bar but it could just as easily be described as a
restaurant offering amazing food. A restaurant where everyone knows
your name and where the phrase “I’ll have my usual” will find the
habitué with a plateful of Punjabi Chole rather than a pint of
Guinness. Zan Zi Bar deserves its reputation as a friendly, casual pub
with fine food... or is it a lively restaurant with a great bar?
Open 7 days a week.
Monday to Thursday: 12pm - 3pm and 5.30pm - 11pm
Friday: 12pm - 11pm (kitchen closed between 3pm and 6pm)
Saturday: 12pm - 11pm (kitchen open all day)
Sunday: 12pm - 10.30pm (kitchen open all day)
Asian restaurant review:Zan Zi Bar
113 High Street, Edgware, Middlesex, HA8 7DB
Phone: 020 8952 2986
Email:zanzibaredgware@aol.com
Fax: 020 8952 9150
Visit Zan Zi Bar here
Nipa Thai Restaurant
A couple of decades ago a Thai restaurant was rare. It’s
the advent of cheaper long-haul flights and more
adventurous eating habits
that has allowed this exciting and vibrant cuisine a foothold in
London. Its flavours combine the whole available spectrum from sweet to
spicy and everything in between.
There are good Thai restaurants all over the capital and these days
most high streets have an example. One of the best, however, is neatly
tucked away inside the anonymous confines of the Lancaster London hotel
at Lancaster Gate. The 1960 facade offers not a hint of the exotic
opulence awaiting the diner on the first floor.
It might seem a bit cheeky to walk through those revolving doors into
one of the smartest 5-star hotels in London. It is, however, a public
restaurant open to passing trade as well as hotel guests. Just march
past reception, turn to the
left,
up
the
stairs
to
the
right
and
across
the
hall.
You
won’t
miss Nipa. It has the most striking and elegant
frontage of any restaurant. A vision of intricately carved teak which
sets the scene for more of the same inside.
Nipa is the twin of the Nipa in Bangkok’s Landmark Hotel. Nipa is one
of a small group of Thai restaurants in the UK to have received the
“Thai Select” award from the Thai Government for restaurants achieving
the highest standards of quality and cuisine. There are only 15 such
award-holders in the UK. It’s the equivalent of a Thai Michelin star so
we were assured of something special.
The charming manager of the London incarnation of Nipa, Mr. Kaseam
Jongpitikrat, told us that Nipa was named after the owner’s wife and it
means ‘pretty lady’. The restaurant takes on that characteristic, being
one of the most attractive restaurants you will ever find. It gives the
sense of an authentic wooden bungalow. It’s ornate with nooks
displaying
Thai
crafts.
It
seats
60
or
so
and
this
creates
an
intimate
ambiance.
The
floor-to-ceiling
windows
have one of the
most enviable views in London. The Italian Gardens and the trees of
Hyde Park will be the backdrop to your meal. The waiting staff are
dressed in white costumes with gold sashes to add still further to the
atmosphere.
Head chef Ms. Nongyao Thoopchoi was one of the staff,
along with Mr.
Kaseam Jongpitikrat, who came from Bangkok to open London's
Nipa
in
1995.
She
and
the
other
lady
chefs
of
the
Nipa
kitchen
are responsible
for the preparation of this vibrant food from traditional recipes, each
platter superbly garnished with carved fruit and vegetables. A touch of
royal elegance.
Thai prawn crackers with real peppery bite were our nibbles as we
perused the menu. You don’t need to be an expert on
Thai cuisine. The
staff are all Thai and are happy to advise you about the dishes that
will best suit your taste. If in doubt then consider one of the set
menus. Some dishes are fiery hot but others are more subtle.
The mixed starter platter gave us a selection of different small bites.
Por Pia Tod - deep-fried spring rolls with glass noodles and crab meat,
prawn-filled Beggars Purses, Tod Man Pla -Thai fish cakes with dipping
sauce, and Chicken Satay with cucumber relish and one of the best
peanut sauces I have had in ages. Rich and thick and I could eat a
bowlful with a spoon. A must-try at Nipa.
The first of our main courses arrived. The crab was a delight: Yum Ma
Muang Poo Nim, crispy soft-shell crab with spicy mango
salad. The batter was crunchy and more evident than that for, say,
tempura but it was light and marvellously seasoned by
the green mango, which gave freshness to the dish.
The stir-fried scallops with green asparagus - Nor Mai Fa Rang Phad Hoy
Shell was a delicate dish. The texture of the bright vegetables was
contrasted with the superbly cooked shellfish. A flavourful sauce
bathed both components and was a garnish for the fluffy rice.
Thai Green Chicken Curry - Kaeng Kiew Warn Kai - was both
spicy and aromatic. Full of white chicken with a creamy sauce. A
typical Thai menu item but done well here. Yes, it’s a standard dish
but it’s popular because this authentic Thai Green curry is remarkable,
with depth of flavour and unctuous texture. The Nipa curry is doubtless
a favourite with its many regular visitors.
Lychees were my dessert of choice as I love that distinctive perfumed
taste - cool and a good digestive. My guest ordered the slightly more
adventurous, delicious and strikingly red Tab Tim Krob -
water-chestnuts coated with tapioca flour in coconut milk and syrup,
served in a Martini glass. That has to be the perfect dessert to end a
romantic Thai meal.
Nipa is award-winning and it’s easy to see why. There is casual
elegance, charm and grace. We might not all be able to afford a trip to
Thailand but an evening at the Royal Lancaster offers a few hours of
tranquillity and lovely food.
Opening times:
Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat:
Lunch: 12:00pm - 2:00pm,
Dinner: 6:30pm - 10:30pm
Sun: 6:30pm - 10:30pm
Asian restaurant review:Nipa Thai
Restaurant
1st Floor, Lancaster London hotel,
Lancaster Terrace, London W2 2TY
Phone: 0872 148 2433
Email: nipa@lancasterlondon.com
Chai Bazaar at Chor
Bizarre – Teatime treats & traditional temptations
Chai Bazaar at Chor Bizarre was London’s first Indian Tea
Bar. Other restaurants serve tea but, take my word for it, tea
and its
associated snacks at Chai Bazaar are an experience, and one seldom
found outside the subcontinent. These days the bar
isn’t a physical
structure, but rather a menu separate from the restaurant bill of fare.
The Tea Bar was officially opened in 2003 by the High Commissioner of
India, Mr. Ronen Sen, along with a host of Indian celebrities. The
highlight of the evening was actor and writer Meera Syal reading from
George Orwell’s Essay outlining the virtues of Indian Tea. In my humble
opinion there is nothing more refreshing than a good hot cup of tea,
and
it’s
no
surprise
to
see
it
immortalised
in
such
a
fashion.
Chor Bizarre is one of my favourite restaurants in the capital: a
favourite of any ethnic persuasion, not just one of my preferred Indian
restaurants. What better place to come for afternoon tea? ‘An Indian
afternoon tea!!’ I hear my dear reader exclaim. Yes, indeed, and there
can be nothing more appropriate than to have teatime inspired by the
nation responsible for much of the planet’s leafy beverage. India is
the world’s biggest tea producer. The country’s climate, soil and
altitude make it ideal for growing a wide range of high-quality teas.
It isn’t an indigenous plant - it was introduced to
India by the
British, who in their typical fashion had stolen it from the Chinese.
Chor Bizarre offers an authentic Indian bazaar setting. Tables and
chairs
which
were
once
windows
and
bed
heads,
carvings
and mirrors, tiles and dark wood all
contrive to create
an atmosphere of Old World charm. The restaurant is less full during
the
day
than
in
the
evening,
and
provides
an
oasis
of
calm.
We perused the tea menu and sought advice from a knowledgeable member
of staff. You don’t have to be a tea connoisseur to appreciate the Tea
Bar. Choose your snacks and ask what might be best, but do try Masala
Chai with its warming and delicate spices. There is a wide variety of
Indian teas to choose from here: I think there are about 30 including
Darjeeling, Assam, Nilgiri, Kashmiri Kehwa. Your cuppa
might
even
be
served
in
earthenware
kullars.
These
cups
are
considered
disposable
in
India,
but
they
are
not
so
easily come
by in London’s department stores, so the staff at the restaurant
prudently hangs on to them.
What would teatime be without something toothsome to
accompany the ‘cup that cheers’? Our food arrived on a silver
Thali
tray
rather
than
being
stacked
on
the
typical
English
three-tier
cake
stand.
This
was
a
striking
presentation
and
gave an agreeable sensation
of just having popped over to see a Maharaja for the afternoon. The
spread was a magnificent display. Chef Manpreet Singh Ahuja and the
other Chor Bizarre chefs offer a selection of spicy and aromatic snacks
to replicate those found on tea stands in India. Papri chaat, hot
pakoras, kathi rolls and naanwiches (sandwiches of naan rather than
white
sliced)
and
Indian
sweets
which
are
delicious
and
a delight to
behold, are all on the menu.
We were plied with samosas and Bombay
mix as well as crisp and
spicy fried okra, Kurkuri Bhindi, which is a dish to die for.
Freshly brewed hot tea is the only libation to enjoy
with your ample
spread of food. It’s a sort of alchemy. Our tea was
poured
from
a
traditional
aluminium
kettle,
the
sort
you
will
recognise
from
watching
those
documentaries
of
tea-wallahs in India. Chef
Manpreet pays attention to detail, not only of food but of
presentation.
Chai Bazaar provides the ultimate authentic Indian tea-drinking
experience. The setting is stunning with an ambiance which will waft
you away from the bustle of London streets. The rich decor is unique
and fascinating. You will feel cocooned in comfort and cosseted by
attentive staff. The Ritz across the road has a good reputation for
tea, I hear, but Chor Bizarre's version is equally fine and every bit
as memorable. A not-to-be-missed event for Londoners and tourists alike.
Asian restaurant review:Chor Bizarre
16 Albemarle Street, London W1S 4HW
Telephone no: 020 7629 9802, 020 7629 8542
Facsimile no: 020 7493 7756
E-Mail: chorbizarrelondon@oldworldhospitality.com
Regional Cooking of
India
There are myriad Indian cookbooks available to the
European reader. Most of them are good, some of them are magnificent
but all of them have something to offer. The problem is that so many of
them present much the same thing. Curry-house favourites, standard
restaurant items and homemade versions of your regular takeaway. This
book, however, entices the reader with much more varied fare.
Mridula Baljekar is a food consultant, restaurant consultant, author,
and she has been away from the UK food TV screens for too long. She had her own cooking series on
Carlton a few years ago and many of us wonder why she is not now
presenting Indian cooking programmes on the UK food network.
Regional Cooking of India is the latest in a line of books from Ms
Baljekar. It’s a large-format tome with a wealth of pictures of
finished dishes, but also step-by-step shots which will be a comfort to
the less-confident home chef. 350 photographs make this either a coffee
table book to cook from or a cookbook to grace the aforementioned
furniture.
Many of us are avid collectors of cookbooks but there is always that
duplication of recipes. This book presents so much that is new. Dishes
that I have not come across in other recipe books and in fact have not
eaten in restaurants. Having said that, there is nothing here to incite
horror at the hob in a European kitchen. Mridula writes with the home
cook in mind. She does not expect you to own a tandoor (although I have
heard you can find plans on the internet for such things using big
terracotta flower pots) and she even suggests an alternative for the
traditional idli maker: use your grandmother’s egg-poacher!
There are 80 recipes here to tempt you to the kitchen and indeed to
India. Each region is considered and Mridula guides you through the
culinary culture of these diverse areas. Six chapters cover north,
south, east and west, with north-east and central India added for good
measure. It’s a huge country with varied climate and geography. Coastal
regions with their array of seafood dishes, and mountains with lamb.
Marvellous vegetables everywhere, and sweets that are a bit more
impressive than those found in UK restaurants.
Prawn Rissoles are from the west, and these would make a delicious main
course, or smaller versions could be made to go with drinks. Several
regions offer dishes that would work in this fashion - stuffed
savouries with contrasting tastes and textures: Meat-Filled Potato
Cakes from Eastern India, and Stuffed Meat Patties from South India are
both flexible recipes. Baby Corn Fritters could also enhance a
canapé tray. My Indian friends have given the smartest of drinks
parties with finger foods like these, which put cheese straws and
twiglets to shame - vibrant flavours from small dishes which are both
tempting and moreish.
If you want a dish to impress then you can’t do better than using
Mridula's recipe for Nawabi Raan, royal-style marinated leg of lamb.
It’s not a difficult dish for even a novice to undertake. The aroma of
spices and roasting meat will fill your home. I know that estate agents
always advise sellers to brew coffee or make bread when expecting
potential house-buyers, but I think this lamb could get the deal done
quicker.
There are many other dishes here deserving of a mention, including
Spicy Stuffed Bananas from West India, which are new to me. A simple
dish and economic, a great departure for vegetarians who will
appreciate the stylish presentation of dark banana skins and savoury
filling. A good standby, using lots of store-cupboard ingredients.
Spicy Scrambled Eggs make a much more exciting breakfast than
cornflakes – attractive and simple to prepare even with only one eye
open.
Mridula Baljekar is a many-faceted consummate professional. One would
expect a fascinating book full of inspiring and different recipes and
that’s exactly what this is. Even those of us who have shelves
liberally garnished with Indian cookbooks will want to find a space for
Regional Cooking of India. It’s a joy.
Asian cookbook review: Regional cooking of India
Author: Mridula Baljekar
Published by: Aquamarine
Price: £19.99
ISBN-13: 978-1-903141-61-6
Bombay Bistro
Acton in West London isn’t a neighbourhood famed for
anything much. It’s got good transport links. A short distance from the
smart shops of Chiswick and the trendy river front of Richmond. The
High Street is en route to either Ealing or Shepherds Bush. Till now
Acton’s only claim to fame is that it was my first home.
Nothing much has changed in Acton. The buildings seem a lot smaller and
the traffic worse. Not surprising since it’s more than half a century
since I visited. No, nothing much has changed - apart from the arrival
of a very good Indian bistro. The Bombay Bistro offers a quality of
casual dining which is often lacking in your typical London high
street. Great food in a comfortable environment. It’s not out to
gentrify Acton but merely to help it evolve into a suburb offering a
lot more than the banal "Indlish" curries of less adventurous
establishments.
Bombay Bistro has one formidable asset and that’s its chef, Bhuwan
Bhatt. A look at the menu will be your first introduction to his
cuisine and it’s full of innovation. There is so much here that is
contemporary and confident as well as being delicious. This restaurant
is Bhuwan's dream and he intends to make his mark in the most positive
of fashions.
We embarked on our exploration with one of the most delightful starters
I have had in a restaurant of any ethnic persuasion. Halloumi cheese
stuffed with a sweet fruit filling, fried and served garnished with a
mango and yoghurt sauce. It sounded so unlikely a combination that I
was bound to try this on behalf of my dear readers. It’s exceptional.
Halloumi isn’t a cheese indigenous to India; the obvious candidate
would have been the ubiquitous paneer, appropriate for so many
traditional recipes. But the choice of halloumi was courageous and
masterful. A noteworthy dish in every regard.
Chicken Tikka is found on the menu of the majority of Indian
restaurants and that shouldn’t be a surprise. A Tikka is, after all,
just a cube of meat. These are more often presented in the “celebrated”
masala sauce, but here chef Bhatt has Basil and Garlic Chicken Tikka as
a starter. The juicy chicken is coated with a green marinade of fresh basil
with
a
bite
of
garlic.
Light
and
full
of
flavour.
Black Cod is becoming more popular in restaurants of every culinary
hue, and Bombay Bistro has Black Cod Steak served on a
bed of couscous, bejewelled with a fine dice of red and green peppers.
Not a dish that one would expect in your regular curry house. Another
indication that this is not your regular curry house. A marvellous
presentation of moist fish and well-seasoned grains of couscous.
Sweet Potato & Butternut Squash is an exceptional vegetarian dish.
The vegetables are complemented by the rich coconut milk perfumed with
curry leaves. This and Dal Panchamitra (5 different lentils cooked with
garlic and turmeric), along with some naan bread or rice, would make a
delicious vegetarian meal. Both dishes had good flavour notes and
agreeable texture.
There is a signature dessert at Bombay Bistro. That isn’t usual for UK
Indian restaurants. There are seldom any surprises in the sweet
department but chef Bhatt has come up with a delightfully original take
on Halwa. You would all have tried the original - tempting and sweet
and made from carrots. It’s a favourite with me, but Bhuwan presents
his guests with Beetroot Halwa and it works! The vegetables retain
their attractive deep red colour, the flavour is rich, the texture is
moist and light, and it’s a must-try.
Bombay Bistro is great value for money. The quality of food is
marvellous and the menu is inspired. Please do visit. Chef Bhuwan Bhatt
deserves to have a successful restaurant filled with diners who
appreciate thoughtful presentation of fresh ingredients.
Asian restaurant review:Bombay
Bistro
47 High Street, Acton, London W3 6ND
Telephone: 02089925131
Website: www.bombaybistro.net
Email: info@bombaybistro.net
Opening hours:
Lunch: 12:00pm - 2:30pm.
Dinner: 5:30 pm - 11:00pm.
TUESDAY CLOSE
Massala Indian Dining
Cobham, Surrey: a new magnet for those seeking a fine
Indian dining experience. One looks at this green and leafy corner of
the Home Counties and it doesn’t immediately speak to you of all things
exotic and subcontinental. Yes, there are plenty of Indian restaurants
in Cobham but we have found one that is exceptional in every regard and
is thoroughly deserving of the accolade Fine Dining.
I visit fabulous restaurants of every ethnic persuasion all the time.
They each have their own character but they all have that essential
common denominator, fine food. The seats might be comfy. The linen
might have ironed creases that are sharp enough to carve stone, but the
food is the important thing. Massala is the style of restaurant which
is attractive, light, welcoming and friendly. The ambiance is
contemporary with hints of Indian crafts. Yes, plenty of crisp
serviettes but it’s the food that will assure your return visit.
Massala is owned and run by two talented chefs. Sunil Sinha is a chef
whose cooking has been described as superb by those in the know. He is
especially noted for his seafood dishes such as whole tandoori lobster
and whole sea bass. He was trained by the Taj Group who have sired many
of the world’s best Indian chefs.
Chef Pradeep Asawa is celebrated for having cooked for HRH Prince
Charles and the late Princess Diana on their state
tour of India in 1992, and the for late Rajiv Gandhi, Prime Minister of
India. Pradeep is evidently well respected in the industry. Both
chefs have a passion for quality ingredients and authentic recipes.
They use fresh produce and don’t use any artificial colourings,
flavourings or GM foods. All the food is cooked specially to order so
you can request a particular dish to be prepared to your taste: a
little more heat for this, a little less heat for that (although Laal
Maans from Rajasthan should never be ordered mild like Korma). Sunil
and Pradeep shun the factory mentality of lesser restaurants which have
only their two vats of base sauces. There is variety and subtlety here.
I mention variety and you might glance at the menu and say it’s a bit
short. Well, no, dear reader, it isn’t short. Compare this thoughtful
and diverse collection with that of a regular high-street Indian
restaurant where you might find the usual suspects of Korma, Madras and
Vindaloo, the only varieties being chicken or lamb. The sauces would be
the same; only the shape of the plate might vary. The Massala menu has
individual dishes made to order. They originate from different regions
of India and the chefs take trouble to ensure that each one is a
faithful representation.
Gilafiseek Lamb from the Punjab is a minced meat kebab starter cooked
in the tandoor. It has a glaze of fresh aromatic
vegetables.
This
had
robust
flavour
and
was
most
remarkably
moist.
The
meat
glistened
with
flavourful
juice.
Seafood lovers are well-served at Massala. It is, after all, Sunil’s
speciality. Try Methi Machchi Tikka from Northern India. These are
chunks of fresh salmon marinated in yoghurt and spices and then cooked
with fenugreek leaves. The flesh was delicate and opaque with
marvellous flavour from both seasonings and the tandoor, which had just
singed the edges of the fish.
Samudari Ratan hails from Western India: scallops, mussels and squid
perfumed with mustard, garlic and cumin is a speciality from Goa.
Jhinga Merunisha, again from Western India, are Jumbo prawns in their
shells marinated in yoghurt with saffron, carom seed and cloves, and
then grilled. This dish must be a signature dish - don’t miss this one.
A striking presentation and amazing flavour and texture.
The main courses at Massala are geographically broad-based. We chose
lamb shank cooked in Xacuti Massala which is
Goan and has vibrant spicy flavours. Great depth and richness, with
meat as tender as you would expect to find in a restaurant of this
quality.
Monkfish Malabar from South India is monkfish cooked with coconut and
onions and flavoured with tamarind for an agreeable contrast to the
sweetness of the other ingredients. This fish is prized for its
firmness but it can be dull. Not at Massala - you won’t be disappointed
if you order this.
I am not a vegetarian and I have become bored of vegetable dishes in so
many Indian restaurants. Heavy sauces with that tell-tale oily residue.
The vegetables at Massala are some of the best you will find. They have
a lightness and freshness more often found in Indian home cooking than
restaurants. They have flavour, crunch and striking colour. Sukhi
Meloni Subzi is peas, carrots, broccoli, corn and beans cooked in a
delicious sauce with a pinch of asafoetida and a little tamarind. Okra
Kumuri is a simple presentation of stir-fried okra with onions and
garlic. Outstanding. Any non-meat eaters in your party would be
delighted with these two dishes, along with some Tadka Dal and some
rice.
Gulab Jamun might be an Indian restaurant staple but it’s a delight
when made fresh. It’s a traditional Indian dessert made of curd cheese.
They are small dumplings which are finished in rose-flavoured
syrup. Gulab Jamun is often over-sweet but Massala’s are hard to
beat for both flavour and texture. If you prefer a pud to make you feel
noble then order Gajar Halwa, an Indian carrot pudding topped with
cardamom and nuts. Those carrots are one of your 5 a day so enjoy the
delicious confection. OK, so now it’s back to power-walking but one
should always save space for dessert. It’s a universal law and one to
which you will be glad to adhere on every visit to Massala.
Massala is a surprise. I am a Londoner and I don’t tend to stray far
from underground stations, red buses and grime. It took effort,
although not as much as I had expected, to wander to Cobham. It only
took half an hour and it was worth the short trip. It has a catchment
zone of the whole of west London and Surrey and deserves to be
considered as THE out-of-town restaurant for lovers of real Indian
food. Great prices and unbeatable quality. Two talented chefs for
the price of one. It’s going to be an award-winning restaurant.
Remember my words.
Opening hours:
Monday – Sunday
Lunch: 12.00 noon – 2.30pm
Dinner: 5.00pm – 23.45pm
Asian restaurant review:Massala
Indian Dining
19 Anyards Rd, Cobham, Surrey KT11 2LW
Phone: 01932 865005
Visit Massala Indian Dining here
Indian Zing – the best in the West
We might be wooed into the misconception that all the
finest restaurants are to be found uniquely in central London.
This particular gem is in the somewhat unlikely environs of
Hammersmith. Not hidden in a backstreet but in plain view on King
Street, and within an Indian cricket ball’s throw of Ravenscourt Park
Underground station. A fleet of bus routes passes the door giving this
restaurant a huge catchment zone.
A Tuesday night in troubled financial times found me in a full Indian
Zing. Lots of regulars and some who might be first-timers drawn to this
neck of the woods after Michael Winner’s glowing review of several
weeks past. It’s a light and contemporary restaurant with Indian
accents and seating for 82. Even the cutlery adds to the subtle theme,
being crafted and wrought in charming subcontinental fashion.
The service here is impeccable. The waiting staff who are attractively
uniformed in dark purple and black silk shirts are attentive and
knowledgeable about not only the food but also the wines, which are
carefully selected to match the dishes. Sample some Indian vintages not
found in other restaurants. The Indian wines of Sula Vineyards in
Nashik Highlands, above Mumbai, are supplied exclusively by Novum Wine
Merchants. These award-winning wines are considered some of the best in
India. Sommelier Vincent Gasnier has chosen many of those on offer.
Your wine bill at Indian Zing will not make you wince. Sauvignon Blanc,
Sula Vineyards, is a New-World style crisp white which weighs in at
less than £19.00. Don’t get anxious: a traditionalist can still
order a Cobra beer.
Manoj Vasaikar is the chef-patron of Indian Zing and he has an enviable
professional pedigree. He has been a chef in some
India’s finest hotels including Taj and Oberoi groups and ITC Sheraton.
Manoj continued his career with some of London’s most celebrated Indian
restaurants such as Chutney Mary and Veeraswamy. That is quite a
collection.
Our pappadums and khakara basket with pickle and relish heralded the
start of a memorable meal. Rice pappadums and wholewheat crispy flat
bread was served with mint and coriander chutney but here with the
addition of pomegranate seeds. Carrot, cucumber, tomato and raisin
raita made with Greek yoghurt was another on the brass carousel.
Chutney of mango with roasted cumin and black pepper was chunky and
moreish. You know you have found a winning restaurant when you are
driven to wax lyrical even about the condiments!
Vegetable Bhanavla is the Indian Zing take on the ubiquitous onion
bhaji. It looks like slices of a delicate meatloaf but there the
resemblance ends. This is light and flavourful and much less oily than
the regular bhaji, being first baked and then griddled.
Prawn and Aubergine Kharphatla is a stunner. It’s an array of jumbo
prawns and sliced aubergine, with caramelised onions, tomato and pickle
masala. The seafood was moist and melting with a sauce which was
finger-lickingly delicious.
Bhujung Biryani must be a signature dish, although Manoj has contrived
to have a whole menu of dishes which would be broadcast as “house
speciality”, “chef recommended”, “gold medal”, and “just like the
head-waiter’s grandma used to make” in other quality restaurants. This
biryani is described as a lighter version of traveller’s biryani, made
along the Mumbai express highway – this would definitely be a step up
from the food found at Small Chef eateries on British motorways. It’s
made with powa (poha) which is a pressed rice. Not to be missed.
Karwari Fish Curry is a seasonal delicacy from the West Coast of India
with an unusual flavour of trifala - an ancient ayurvedic compound
common to this region. The fresh yellowtail fish for this and the
seafood for all the other dishes are chosen with the same care as the
wine. That undoubtedly contributes to the reputation of Indian Zing.
Chicken Miravna is a dish made from free -range poultry and is said to
be a classic dish from the earliest-settled community of Mumbai. It’s
packed with green herbs and spices. The sauce was rich and the meat
tender. A unique and historic dish.
Bottle gourd cooked with roasted pumpkin and lentils, tempered with
mustard seeds (Dudhee Bhopla and Chana) is a delicious vegetarian dish
with both texture and taste. I have not found this in any other
restaurant. It’s sustaining and hearty enough for even committed meat
eaters.
I was expecting something
special and that’s just what I got. Manoj Vasaikar should be proud of a
restaurant that offers guests a calming ambiance and some of the best
Indian food you’ll find this side of the Arabian Sea. He has culinary
vision and courage. Indian Zing is great value for money for such high
standards and attention to detail.
BACK BY POPULAR DEMAND:
INDIAN ZING ANNOUNCES A PROGRAMME OF FIESTAS FOR 2010
Indian Zing, known for serving some of the most creative
Indian food in London, is continuing its annual tradition of hosting
special food festivals at the restaurant, highlighting unusual or
special aspects of the Sub-Continent’s cuisine. Chef patron Manoj
Vasaikar is pleased to announce the 2010 fiesta programme, when special
menus will be available alongside the à la carte in the
evenings, will include:
Summer Cooler Fiesta- 3rd to 13th June
Biryani Fiesta – 13th to 22nd July
Maharastrian Fiesta – 17th to 26th August
Game Fiesta – 5th to 14th October
Summer Cooler Fiesta- (3rd to 13th June)
Back by popular demand, the Summer Coolers event will showcase the
variety of thirst-quenching drinks which are popular refreshments in
India during the heat of the summer and are available everywhere from
street vendors to the finest restaurants. These include Kokum Crush
(Indian plum crush, cumin, sweetened with demerara sugar); and Shikani
(freshly squeezed tropical lime and black salt served in soda or plain
water, sweet or salted). Chef Patron, Manoj Vasaikar, has also
added ‘zing’ to some of the recipes with the addition of his own
innovations such as Sandalwood Lassi (yoghurt churned with real
sandalwood essence).
Biryani Fiesta (13th to 22nd June)
This fiesta will celebrate the rice dishes popular throughout the
Middle East and Asia, highlighting a host of regional and specialist
Indian biryanis which are rarely seen on UK menus. These include the
tahiri biryani, a mixed vegetable biryani made with exotic mushrooms
and tropical seasonal vegetables served with raita and papadum; the
sofiyani biryani, a fish biryani from the house of Nizams (Hyderabadi),
made with a rich paste of sesame and melon seeds and dry coconut
delicately infused with saffron and spices; and the Calicut beef
biryani, brought by Arab traders to Calicut via the Arabian Sea
(Southern India) and then infused by the Muslim community with Indian
spices and curry leaves. They come served in a banana leaf, traditional
packaging for biryanis which are being taken away, to eat whilst
travelling.
Maharashtrian Fiesta (17th to 26th August)
Maharashtra is one of the largest states in Indian, located on the West
coast, and dominated by the capital, Mumbai (Bombay) – it’s also the
region Manoj originates from. Dishes on the special menu will include
kothimbir wadi, braised coriander and green vegetable patty served with
tangy tamarind relish and fresh green herb relish; and fish and
aubergine kalwan, a seasonal fish broth with aubergine and Indian
spices.
Shikhari-Ka Fiesta (game) Fiesta (5th to 14th October)
Hunting game was fashionable in India, particularly with the royal
families, who enjoyed eating the meats flavoured with spices and
foreign liqueurs, and tribes, who hunted for survival and maintained
the robust flavours of the meat with the addition of spices and crushed
herbs cooked over hot charcoal and wild wood. It was the Turks
who introduced the tandoor, refined by Mughlai influences, which gave a
finesse and richness to game cooking. Dishes will include sukka
wild boar and idli, seared wild boar with onion, pepper, curry leaves,
roasted spices and finished with palm vinegar and served with steamed
rice cake; and pheasant bauli handi, slow cooked pheasant (on the bone)
in Indian broth with root vegetables and hand pounded spices and herbs.
Opening hours
Weekdays and Saturdays:
Lunch: 12:00 - 15:00
Dinner: 18:00 - 23:00
Sundays:
Lunch: 13:00 - 16:00
Dinner: 18:00 - 22:00
Asian restaurant review:Indian Zing
236 King Street, London W6 0RF
Phone: 0208 748 5959
Email: info@indianzing.co.uk
Visit Indain Zing here
Mridula Baljekar’s
Chutneys
Mridula’s food has been described as ‘Heaven on Earth for
the senses’, ‘The route to spice heaven’, and ‘Traditional
Indian cuisine with a brilliant modern twist’. She
has maintained her reputation with her range of
chutneys.
I first came across Mridula Baljekar when she presented her own TV
series ‘Mridula’s Indian Kitchen’ and the highly acclaimed ‘Spice
Trail’ on Carlton Food Network in the UK. She had a quiet yet confident
stage presence which encouraged her viewers to believe that, yes, they
too could cook Indian food.
She owned a contemporary Indian restaurant in Windsor which won several
prestigious awards, but she now concentrates on her writing and media
career as well as restaurant consulting and hands-on chutney making.
She has also written many best-selling cookery books including Great
Indian Feasts published in 2005, which was voted the ‘Best Asian
Cuisine Cookbook in the World’ by Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in May
2006; in that same year it also won ‘Cookery Book of the Year.’
We spent a cold spring afternoon taste-testing several in Mridula's
range of chutneys. All of the fruits in this range have been supplied
by Perry Court Farm in Kent, Chegworth Valley Farm in Kent and Milletts
Farm in Oxfordshire. The tomatoes in the Sweet Tomato Chutney are from
the Leonard Ironside Tomato Nursery in Kent.
Mridula makes all of the chutneys herself in her own kitchen with the
help of a friend. She takes evident pride in the freshness of
ingredients and it shows in the finished products. Yes, they all have
an unmistakable Eastern quality but not overly so. All of the chutneys
we tried would work with cheese and simply-cooked meats as well as
Indian food.
Surprisingly Mridula uses olive oil in her chutneys. It works far
better than might vegetable oil, as it does have a healthier profile.
These chutneys lack the oily residue typical of traditional Indian
condiments. Think rather, light and bright flavours.
Pear Chutney with Saffron:
An attractive orange/amber colour. Contains pear, saffron, sugar,
raisins, nigella seeds, star anise, cinnamon, chilli powder, red chilli
flakes, root ginger, fresh garlic, salt, olive oil, lemon juice, lemon
zest, cider vinegar (note the lack of E-numbers, preservatives and
other ingredients unrelated to food). Has a delicate aroma of real
ginger; a mild flavour with a distinct but pleasing fresh ginger
aftertaste. Chunky texture from both pear and raisins. Amazingly
moreish; great with strong Cheddar but also tried this as a topping for
a scoop of homemade saffron ice cream, at the end of an Indian meal.
That was amazing: a slight heat from the chilli was counteracted by the
cool of the ice cream. Think I’ll patent the idea.
Plum Chutney with Apricot:
A rich dark caramel colour. Contains: Plum, apricot, olive oil, mustard
seed, nigella seed, chilli powder, salt, brown sugar, fennel seeds,
fenugreek seeds, cumin seeds, apples, red wine vinegar. Exotic and
tempting perfume, smoother consistency than the pear chutney but still
retaining evidence of real fruit, studded with the black nigella seeds.
A rich sweet chutney to enhance any red meat dish. A fruity start with
a hot finish. Distinctive and delicious. The brown sugar has helped to
elevate this chutney to something quite special.
Sweet Tomato Chutney: Red
mahogany in colour. Contains tomatoes, olive oil, mustard seeds, cumin
seeds, fresh chillies, ground cumin, white wine vinegar, chilli powder,
sugar, salt, raisins. A light chutney with an initial flavour of fresh
tomatoes. Other tomato chutneys have often a rather metallic taste but
Mridula’s has an appropriate sweetness. The cumin is the underlying
enhancer which gives an unmistakable Indian character but without the unpleasantly
familiar
oil
slick.
A
winner
with
anything
from
cheese
to
chicken.

We tried just three of the chutneys in Mridula Baljekar’s
range. They are all made with seasonal produce and those seasons
change. There will always be several varieties to choose from and if
they are as striking as these then you will be in for a treat. As
quantities are limited they can be found only at various farmers
markets. They are truly hand-made in small batches. These are quality
chutneys for those who want flavour and freshness.
These chutneys are the first products in a wider range which will
include cooking sauces, jams and ready meals.
Visit Mridula's
site for more information.
Mango Lounge – Windsor
Windsor isn’t the first place one might think to visit
when one is struck by an overpowering urge to eat Indian food, not just
any Indian food but the most
delicious, the most innovative. The Mango Lounge has made its mark over
the last couple of years and has won several awards including The
Windsor Express 2009 Restaurant of the Year.
The Mango Lounge is one of the new breed of stylish and
contemporary
Asian restaurants which rely on quality of dishes and
elegant ambiance
to attract the diner. The attention to detail here is evident from the
second you arrive. The decor is thoughtful with accents
of tasteful
Indian crafts.
The Mango Lounge menu is the work of Head Chef Ashwani Kumar
and his
team, with support from celebrated TV cook, author and former
restaurateur, Mridula Baljekar. This is refined Indian cuisine,
reflecting dishes from several regions of the subcontinent. Ashwani has
worked in renowned kitchens such as that of The Cinnamon Club in
Westminster, one of the most respected Indian Fusion restaurants in
Europe. He has introduced a degree of culinary sophistication which is
almost unheard of outside the capital.
A chef with such a pedigree offers “chef’s recommendations” which were
always going to be worth trying. We sampled the striking Tiger Prawn
Martini. I had expected this to be a prawn cocktail in a martini glass.
The reality was somewhat more impressive. A shot glass was layered with
a selection of contrasting colours of chutneys. The tiger prawn had a
crunchy rice coating and was moist and tender with no hint of grease
from the deep-frying. The martini element was indeed a dash of real
martini and married very well with the other flavours.
Scallops are notoriously tricky to cook. That is to say they are easy
to cook but are unforgiving. A second or two too long in the pan and
the delicate flesh is rendered the consistency of a pallid hockey puck.
Samundri Moti was a great showcase for the scallops. They were seared
to delicate tenderness and were presented on a mound of coriander and
green pea mash. Attractive and vibrant.
Chicken Tikka Masala is considered to be Britain’s national dish. Chef
Kumar offers a Trio of Chicken Tikka which has little in common with
the dry and unappetizing articles so often served in regular
high-street eateries. Each morsel of succulent meat had its own
distinct marinade. A sizzling platter of aromatic and delicious chunks.
Mango Lounge main dishes are an inspired and diverse collection not
often seen in Indian restaurants. The names take the diner on a
culinary journey across the subcontinent, from Murgh Hydrabadi to Delhi
Style Chicken, which is another of the chef’s recommendations. This is
a dish of pieces of chicken cooked in a tandoor and then simmered in a
tomato-based sauce perfumed with fenugreek. It’s subtle and moreish and
once tried will be a dish you’ll be tempted to order time and time
again. Nothing wrong with that, although you would miss out on some
other marvellous tastes.
We were anxious to try chef Ashwani’s award-winning dish of Lal Maas.
This is a rich and flavourful dish of lamb originating in western
India. It’s marked with three red chillies on the Mango Lounge menu,
denoting fiery heat. It was with a degree of trepidation that I
approached the first forkful. I once had a nasty experience with a
vindaloo and vowed to have no more dealings with food carrying a
warning. I had no need to be anxious. There was heat in this dish but
it was tempered with depth of flavour. Morsels of lamb are first
marinated in yoghurt and spices and then cooked with chillies, cumin
and coriander. The resulting meat and sauce has character and is quite
rightly considered a signature dish.
The meal had been copious and memorable, and a soupçon of
something sweet made a contrasting end. The dessert list here is a cut
above its competitors, if indeed there are any in this area. Cardamom
Warm Spiced Chocolate Mousse, and Ginger and Cinnamon Kulfi were more
inspiring than the usual fare of gulab jamun, although that’s one of my
favourite of Indian sweetmeats. My guest chose the Coconut and Lime
Brulée which has had a good press. He was not disappointed. I
chose the Ginger and Lime Sorbet as a palate-cleanser and refreshing
cooler. It was tangy, exotic and delicious. A light must-try for those
who have not managed to restrain themselves from the tempting previous
courses.
The Mango Lounge has earned a reputation for quality. It’s an
attractive restaurant which plies its visitors with award-winning
dishes. You won’t return here because of the certificates or medals,
but because those dishes are tasty, the staff attentive and the prices
reasonable. It’s no surprise that this restaurant enjoys regular
clients who appreciate the best of contemporary Indian cuisine.
Asian restaurant review:Mango Lounge
9 Datchet Road, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1QB
Phone: 01753 855576
Fax: 01753 859309
Email: reception@mangoloungewindsor.com
Visit Mango Lounge here 
Opening times
Lunch: 12.30 - 14.30
Dinner: 18.00 - 22.30 (23.00 weekends)
The Cinnamon
Club Seafood Cookbook
Britain is an island. So it goes without saying that we
are surrounded by water and have had a close relationship with the sea.
Surprising, therefore, that are still so many of us who are not fish
eaters. Home cooks have not had a
good reputation for preparing tasty fish, and we so often resort to the
chippy for some battered haddock. Well, they tell us that fish is good
for us, don’t they. So shall I make that two haddock and large chips,
please? No, that’s not the idea!
We should be eating more fish, it’s true. We have an amazing choice of
seafood of all kinds, both domestic and imported, but what to do with
it? Chef Vivek Singh has penned this book with the home cook in mind.
The recipes are accessible and will show you exactly what to do with
the fishmonger’s wares, and to great effect.
Not only is The Cinnamon Club Seafood Cookbook a practical recipe book
but it’s a visual stunner. Photographer Jean Cazals has a reputation
for some of the best food photography around. This is a good
representation of his excellent work. Unfussy shots to encourage you
into the kitchen.
The Cinnamon Club is celebrated for its fine Indian and fusion food.
Vivek offers culinary marvels of both taste and presentation, but he
has a kitchen full of well-trained and passionate staff, doesn’t he?
His books, however, enable us civilians to cook food that is both
impressive and well within the grasp of the enthusiastic home cook. A
glance at the lists of ingredients might be off-putting to the
faint-hearted but on closer inspection you’ll find that it’s mostly
spices and you’ll doubtless have them lurking at the back of your
larder anyway. Time to move them to the front and buy some fish.
Whitebait was once a common item on menus and even for Saturday
teatime. These little fish are eaten whole so they are perhaps a good
starting point for those who are unsure about piscatorial preparation.
Vivek offers Whitebait in Garlic and Pepper Batter. That batter is a
cut above that which houses your chip-shop haddock. This recipe is
simple: Mix batter ingredients together. Add fish. Leave for ten
minutes. Fry for two minutes. Eat. I defy you to make this just once.
Use sprats if you can’t get whitebait. Another recipe for delicious
little morsels is that for South Indian Shrimp Pickle. Another simple
recipe that produces stylish nibbles for your next cocktail party. A
must-try.
A recipe which I shall make often and pass off as my own is for Red
Snapper with Ginger-Jaggery Chutney. Another easy dish in two parts.
The chutney has Indian cane sugar as one of its main ingredients. It’s
easy to find these days in any Asian supermarket but if you live in a
lighthouse you could use a dark brown sugar.
The Cinnamon Club Seafood Cookbook offers more than 130 recipes for
fish and seafood in all its guises, as well as suitable accompaniments.
It’s a book to inspire, encourage and tempt. Vivek Singh does not
expect you to be a budding chef. His recipes are well-written and easy
to follow. He steers you to dishes that will delight and impress and
you won’t need a catering qualification to achieve good results. Jean’s
pictures make this a gift-quality book and I look forward to more from
Vivek Singh and the Cinnamon Club team.
The Cinnamon Club Seafood Cookbook
Author: Vivek Singh
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £15.00
ISBN 1-9045734-1-X
Rasoi: New Indian
Kitchen
This book feels sumptuous, contemporary and a bit
different. It has the air of Eastern opulence but tastefully understated.
It’s unmistakably Indian and offers its wares with quiet confidence to
an audience which can’t fail to be impressed and intrigued.
Rasoi: New Indian Kitchen has been penned by the chef-owner of the
Rasoi restaurant, Vineet Bhatia. He has achieved much critical acclaim
for his sterling work in several Indian restaurants in London. He is
one of that rare breed of chefs of any culinary persuasion who has been
praised by both the UK’s two most celebrated restaurant critics, Fay
Maschler and A. A. Gill. I have not yet had the privilege of visiting
Rasoi but if the book is a faithful representation then it’s worth
exploring.
Vineet suggests that his book may not be for the novice. Well, at first
glance that might seem so but even the most complicated and
many-faceted dishes can be often broken down into their constituent
parts and either made in advance or used as stand-alone dishes.
Raan Mussallam is in fact a simple dish for the most delicious roast
lamb you will ever eat. The meat is cooked in a covered roasting tin to
melting perfection. It cooks for 3 hours so it’s an ideal alternative
to the regular Sunday roast. It would work well with traditional roast
potatoes although I prefer my raan with rice or naan.
Black Pepper Chicken Masala is a dish that Vineet remembers from his
childhood. He has adapted it and serves his with Black Lentil and
Cashew Nut Rice, but the less-confident home cook could start by
practising the chicken dish and just serving it with plain steamed
rice. Add the black lentil rice when you’re more at ease with the
cuisine.
We all have those occasions when we want to impress the in-laws or we
want to push the boat out. No better way of doing that than with
seafood. Crab Curry with Lime and Coriander, Peanut and Curry Leaf Rice
is a dish with impact but you won’t need to be a skilled chef to
undertake it. Vineet has done the clever work for you. He has chosen
the ingredients to give savour and richness. One of the easiest dishes
to execute, but memorable.
Desserts are often a little thin on the ground in Indian restaurants. I
have had fine ones in Indian homes, but these don’t seem to have
migrated to commercial establishments. Chef Bhatia has broken that
mould and devised some stunning desserts based on traditional recipes
but with his usual flourish. Try Roasted Tandoori Pineapple Infused
with Saffron and Fennel, Pineapple and Saffron Halwa, Warm Coconut Milk
Shooter. That all sounds like quite a complicated plateful, but you can
just make the halwa and it will be delicious at the end of the meal
with some tea. The Tandoori Pineapple would make an exotic addition to
your next barbecue.
Whilst it’s true to say that Rasoi: New Indian Kitchen is a
coffee-table book, that statement would be diminishing its true merit
as a cookbook. There is so much here that has the Must Try element.
It’s a volume full of ideas and inspiration. A noble addition to any
serious cookbook collection. A stunner.
Cookbook review: Rasoi: New Indian Kitchen
Author: Vineet Bhatia
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £30.00
ISBN 13:9781906650193
The Eastern
and Oriental Cookbook
Nice name for a cookbook. It has an almost old-fashioned
ring to it. Hints of The Orient Express, perhaps the East India
Company, P & O steamers and Edwardian ladies with parasols. All
romantic notions but, in truth, this sumptuous volume is a companion of
the celebrated E & O.
OK, so now we are on to another flight of fancy. What is E & O? Is
it something medically akin to A & E? E,N & T? No, it’s an
acronym for Eastern and Oriental, although this fine London restaurant
is better known as E & O. The name is well-chosen as it’s a
pan-Asian restaurant with a soupçon of fusion.
There are a good many pan-Asian eateries around. They vary in quality
from the sublime to the ridiculous. Some are basic Chinese restaurants
which offer Thai noodles and a selection of commercially produced
sushi. Others present a concoction of poorly executed versions of Asian
classics. E & O was one of the first pan-Asian restaurants and it
is reputed to be one of the best.
Will Ricker isn’t a chef. He is the restaurateur behind not only
E&O but Cicada, Great Eastern Dining Room, Eight Over Eight and XO,
all of which I hope to review in the near future. He has won numerous
awards for his restaurants and food, so a cookbook was bound to be on
the cards.
The Eastern and Oriental Cookbook is a striking volume with photographs
by William Meppam. The black pages with white text give a contemporary
and stylish feel although it remains a thoroughly practical cookbook.
It’s designed with the home cook in mind. The dishes are stunning but
the recipes will hold no terrors.
Pan-Asian, in this context, means China, Japan and Thailand. They are
three individual cuisines which have qualities that can be easily
combined to great effect. One might choose a Chinese soup along with
some Japanese tempura followed by a Thai curry. You’ll have the freedom
and indeed the inspiration to find the selection that will be most
tempting for your friends and family.
There are plenty of classics here. Chicken Jungle Curry, Beef Bulgogi
(a nod to Korea with this one), and Pad Thai will all be familiar. But
how about Lobster and Prawn Sweet Ginger Noodles for a special meal,
and you might consider a Jasmine Cosmopolitan to finish. There are
every-day dishes as well as dinner-party fare within these classy pages.
My favourites from The Eastern and Oriental Cookbook include Sole
Tempura with its unique presentation, Chilli Tofu for those days when I
want something quick, light and noble, and Crispy Pork Belly for the
times when I crave comfort food with attitude. It’s a Dim Sum
suggestion but you’ll eat so much it’ll be a meal.
The desserts are appealing. Asian restaurants are not generally famed
for their sweets, and often resort to the standard banana fritters and
even Chocolate Fondant Cake. Will, however, has White Chocolate and
Berry Dumplings, and Mini Cinnamon Doughnuts served with a Passionfruit
Syrup. My pick of puds must be the Ginger Cheesecake with Caramel
Bananas. It’s a melange of exotic flavours in a Western guise.
The Eastern and Oriental Cookbook is a culinary page-turner. It offers
a feast for the eyes as well as a wealth of accessible dishes that are
simple to prepare, but which have that often elusive “wow” factor. It’s
gift quality so buy two copies. It’s unlikely you’ll want to let this
one out of your grasp.
Asian cookbook review: The Eastern and Oriental Cookbook
Author: Will Ricker
Published by: Hardie Grant Books
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-74066-614-5
Easy
Japanese Cooking – Appetizer Rex
The author, Kentaro Kobayashi, is a young man with both
talent and passion. He started his working life as an illustrator but soon displayed
his flair for food. (He gets that from his mum who is an award-winning
cookbook author.) His motto has always been “easy yet delicious,
stylish yet realistic”. He has featured in magazines and on television
where he represents the new generation of cooks. His Veggie Haven has
been nominated by the Paris Book Fair and Gourmand as one of 2009’s
Best Cookbooks of the Year. Not too shabby!
It’s called Easy Japanese Cooking but that might give the impression
that it concerns traditional Japanese fare. I prefer to think of it as
Easy Contemporary Japanese Cooking. The Japanese, along with the rest
of the world, are becoming more global in their food horizons and
Kentaro has no prejudice when it comes to introducing Western
ingredients into his larder. Appetizer Rex is a volume that shows the
acceptable face of fusion cuisine, and does it in a fun way.
Just think of appetizers or hors d’oeuvres and we conjure thoughts of
convivial gatherings. These little dishes are not taxing to prepare but
choose the right ones to match your guests, along with their drinks,
and success is assured. There are no worries about preparing a balanced
meal: appetizers are not meals in themselves, they are little
‘amuse-gueules’ as the French would poetically describe them.
Kentaro offers us his usual mix of lively ingredients combined with
thoughtful but simple presentation. There are a few recipes that will
be somewhat familiar to Western readers – for example, Nachos, Tomato
Salsa, and Tomato and Olive Bruschetta are well loved standards, but my
advice would be to consider the lesser-known dishes that will be not
only delicious but great conversation pieces.
Wasabi Butter Beef will be a winner with the carnivores. A simple dish
to prepare but sliced beef always contrives to look luxurious. Ribs
with Green Onions will also help to slake manly appetites. Sunny-side
Up Beef is a good way of using up leftover Sunday roast. A striking
presentation of sauced meat and an egg yoke.
Fried Rice Balls would be an exotic alternative to crisps (chips).
Serve them with some good flavourful Japanese condiments for a
healthier but substantial snack. Two-Way Fritters are ideal for those
who must have a fried-food fix. They are an agreeable combination of
corn, ham and shrimp. They are said to stay crisp even when cooled so a
good choice for a drinks party.
My absolute favourite dish will have my dear reader reeling in horror.
Whelks! WHELKS? Yes, and you should try them. Kentaro has a Whelk
Sauté which has few ingredients, is simple to make and economic
as well. I would perhaps counsel that you slice the shellfish rather
than leaving them whole. The whelks found off British coasts are large
and, I must admit, unattractive. Don’t tell your guests what they are
eating and they will love them.
Easy Japanese Cooking – Appetizer Rex is another winner from Kentaro
Kobayashi. He continues to offer dishes that are simple but impressive.
Always something unique and stunning. Don’t stop now, Kentaro, I await
the next volume.
Asian cookbook review: Easy Japanese Cooking – Appetizer Rex
Author: Kentaro Kobayashi
Published by: Vertical Inc. New York
Price: $14.95 US, £10.99
ISBN 978-1-934287-63-7
50 Great Curries of
India
Yes, India is a big country with many regions, each with
its own culinary classics, so I guess the author, Camellia
Panjabi, has had her work cut out to choose just 50 of them. The ones
she has selected, however, represent the best, the most celebrated, and
those which can be most easily replicated in a non-Indian home.
The accompanying DVD introduces us to the author. She might not be a
household name but she is well known in the UK and Indian food
industries. She is a director of Masala World, a UK Indian restaurant
company. Doesn’t ring bells? Well, perhaps you have heard of Veeraswamy
in Piccadilly? It’s the oldest and most iconic of Indian restaurants in
London. Chutney Mary and Amaya are also from the Masala World stable,
offering high-end Indian food to the increasingly discerning British
public.
Ms. Panjabi has a quiet and reassuring stage presence. Her
conversational style puts the novice cook at their ease. Any cookbook
author who suggests that it’s perfectly acceptable to change the recipe
to suit your personal taste is OK in my book. This is a lady who might
be a restaurant magnate but she still lives in the real world. Even in
India one’s mum’s Chicken Dopiaza will taste subtly different from her
neighbour’s. Camellia is aware that some ingredients might be a bit
thin on the ground so if you live in a lighthouse miles from
civilisation then you can, for instance, use powdered coconut milk
instead of the real thing. There really is nothing to stop you having a
go.
This is an amazingly attractive book. The pages are edged with
traditional fabric motifs which, along with the striking photography,
help to give this volume a sumptuous air. A paperback it might be, but
it’s gift quality nevertheless. The author’s notes for each recipe help
to put the dishes into geographic or cultural context. 50 Great Curries
of India will not only teach you how to make, well, 50 delicious
curries, but it will also take you on a culinary voyage.
50 Great Curries of India offers recipes for curries (that is to say,
dishes with sauces) as well as breads, vegetables, lentils etc. And a
nice selection of desserts, and a meal planner to give a bit of
confidence if you want to show off to the in-laws. You will recognise
the names of many of the dishes from visits to your local Indian
restaurant. It’s very probable, however, that you will prefer your own,
freshly-made version. Do I have favourites from this volume? Yes,
many.
Lamb with Plums had my immediate attention. It’s a speciality from the
aforementioned Veeraswamy restaurant. The dish hails originally from
Hyderabad, as did the founder of the restaurant, Edward Palmer – his
grandmother was a Hyderabadi Princess. A delightful history for a
delicious curry. It’s an economic dish for the home cook: stewing
lamb is the main ingredient and the spices are those found in your
local supermarket.
Another must-try from the non-vegetarian dishes is Meat Cooked with
Cardamom. It’s home-style food rather than restaurant fare. I love
anything flavoured with cardamom. It has a distinctive taste and aroma
and is used extensively for both sweet and savoury dishes. This a
simple dish to make and has few ingredients. In fact none of the
recipes in this book should hold any terrors for even the inexperienced
home cook. The recipes are clearly written and the cooking techniques
don’t demand exotic kitchen equipment or any cheffy skills.
Cauliflower has long had a bad press for being a dull and boring and
aesthetically unappealing vegetable. Perhaps Cauliflower and Potato
Curry will help to elevate its profile. It’s a marvellous main dish for
vegetarians but it’s hearty enough to be enjoyed by those who are
card-carrying carnivores. The vegetables are chunky and the sauce
warming. An ideal winter supper.
50 Great Curries of India gives a colourful overview of regional Indian
food. Camellia Panjabi’s writing is charming and accessible, and the
book is full not only of recipes but also of information on spices and
their uses, as well as hints and shortcuts. A book for curry
connoisseurs and those who would like to be.
Asian Cookbook review: 50 Great Curries of India
Author: Camellia Panjabi
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £15.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-819-6
Maharaja –
The Spectacular Heritage of Princely India
Thames and Hudson are famed for their high-quality books
and this is another fine example of the style of book
we have come to expect. It’s large format, full colour and stunning but
more than that, it’s an archive of a disappearing world.
India is a confident country with high expectations. It is growing and
finally taking its rightful place in the world arena. It has
international respect for its advances in technology and the sciences
but it also takes pride in its history and culture. Its colourful past
continues to fascinate the rest of the world but much of that past is
still living, active and well regarded.
Maharajas no longer exist in name but they still exist in fact. They
continue to be amazingly wealthy and enjoy lifestyles that the majority
of the world can only wonder at. They might not any longer have exotic
titles but the opulence of old lingers on.
Maharaja – The Spectacular Heritage of Princely India is a sumptuous
volume which looks at the descendants of the maharajas. They lost their
states in 1947 and had their titles abolished in 1971 but in many ways
it’s business as usual. They live in stunning palaces with amazing
treasures and employ legions of servants. I can hear socialist teeth
grinding at the vision, but just consider awhile. India is not a
welfare state. People need jobs. India’s craftsmen are celebrated for
their skill and artistry and their very existence today in modern India
is in no small measure due to the patronage of the previous maharajas
and the present almost-maharajas.
Sumio Uchiyama is best known in Japan as a portrait photographer of
movie stars. This Maharaja project has allowed him to travel the length
of India searching for the remains of the famed princes who still
follow their traditional way of life. Whilst this book contains much
more than just portraits it’s evident that the photographer has an
amazingly good eye for that genre.
The author, Andrew Robinson, has penned more than fifteen books
including a biography of Satyajit Ray, the Indian filmmaker responsible
for Pather Panchali, a film which won numerous awards at film festivals
world-wide, and of Rabindranath Tagore, a poet, novelist, musician, and
playwright who won the 1913 Nobel Prize for Literature. Maharaja – The
Spectacular Heritage of Princely India has allowed him to put context
to the subject.
This is another from the Thames and Hudson stable which will be sought
after by those of us who love India in all her colourful and exotic
guises. The images are beautiful, thoughtful and evocative. Would that
TV documentary-makers consider taking such a reasoned and positive view
of this magnificent country.
Book review: Maharaja – The Spectacular Heritage of Princely India
Author: Andrew Robinson
Published by: Thames and Hudson
Price: £14.95
ISBN 978-0-500-28822-1
The Real Taste of
Indonesia
Granted, this isn’t a cuisine that the majority of the
British public will be familiar with but this should, on analysis,
be
one
of
the
next
big
Asian
food
trends.
It
offers
all
the
elements
we
need
to
feel
that
we
have
had
a
thoroughly
exotic
but
not
outlandish
dining
experience.
It
has
the
hint
of
spice
that
many
of
us
crave
along
with
some
familiar
flavours
to
ensure
that
we
are
not
over-anxious
about
a
new
culinary
adventure.
Indonesia holds a rather unique accolade. It can boast cultural
credentials from its own geographic location as well as those of China,
India, Arabia and Europe. Those influences are reflected in its food.
The dishes have good taste and harmony, and how much better the world
would be if we could all embrace those traits. Perhaps that could be a
world New Year’s Resolution - to live life like an Indonesian Rice
Table (Rijsttafel). An array of delicious foods, all different but
forming a vibrant and balanced whole.
The Real Taste of Indonesia is a marvellous introduction to the spices,
fresh ingredients and cooking methods from the kingdom of a thousand
islands. There is plenty of basic information and most of what you’ll
need can be found in your local stores, with the occasional visit to an
Asian supermarket. There are more and more Indonesian and Malaysian
products available, as the cuisine becomes better-known throughout
Europe..
There are 100 or so recipes in this well-illustrated volume. Every
recipe has its photograph and those pictures alone are enough to
encourage you to dust off your wok – or more accurately your Indonesian
Wajan – and start cooking. There is nothing much to frighten even a
novice cook.
Ayam Paniki is spicy coconut chicken Sulawesi style. This is a rich and
creamy dish that was originally made with bats. Tescburyrose in your
high street doesn’t often stock them but the substitute chicken works
just as well and there is more meat on the legs.
Satay is now a popular dish on many pan-Asian menus. Indonesians have
many versions including not only the ever-popular chicken but also
beef, pork, lamb, goat, fish, prawn, squid, tripe and liver. They each
have their individual marinades and accompanying sauces. The common
element is the basic concept of small pieces of something on skewers
grilled over a charcoal fire. A Sate party could be in order for the
summer - an interesting take on the traditional barbecue. I have a
couple of favourites from this book: Satay Manis (sweet beef satay)
which needs no dipping sauce and Sate Kambling (skewered goat or lamb)
which is served with Kecap sauce rather than the usual peanut-based
condiment.
Klepon (sticky rice dumplings with melted palm sugar) make a delicious
and authentic dessert, or a treat for afternoon tea. They have a unique
spongy, marshmellowy texture which is addictive. Pandan essence gives
these sweets a vibrant green colour and distinctive aroma.
The Real Taste of Indonesia is a delightful book filled with simple
must-try recipes. Take a trip to your nearest Malaysian restaurant to
get a taste of the style of food and then you’ll understand my
enthusiasm. This is an amazingly good value cookbook that will soon
have pages stained with Sambal and sweet soy sauce.
Cookbook review: The Real Taste of Indonesia
Published by: Hardie Grant Books
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-74066-820-0
Wing Yip –
Gifts for the New Year ...or any time
It’s the time of year for gift-giving. Diwali and
Christmas have just gone. New Year and Chinese New Year will soon
be here but there are other occasions when a thoughtful present of
foodstuffs would be welcome: birthdays, house-warmings and even
parties. Wing Yip’s has several ready-made hampers, or design your own.
Wing Yip is a popular brand of oriental sauces and condiments. They
have several large stores (Birmingham, Manchester, Cricklewood and
Croydon) and now you can order online. Their products are of the
highest quality and are also stocked by most large supermarkets. They
have been used and trusted by domestic and professional cooks for
years. Not only Western but Asian housewives equally rely upon Wing Yip
products, and there are over 2,500 of them.
Try Thai, Malaysian, Vietnamese, Singaporean sauces and ingredients. If
the lucky food-parcel recipient has a passion for a particular cuisine
then you can make a tailor-made gift with all the appropriate
seasonings and condiments. And you’ll find all you need to gladden the
heart of a sushi lover, including sake.
If you have a budding chef or an Asian food enthusiast in your life,
you could consider a ready-made suggestion for a Chinese hamper (see
here). It’s a good place to start as it contains not only the
sauces but also a recipe book. An ideal gift for a novice Chinese chef.
It will be easy to present dishes as smart as Mussels in Chilli Black
Bean Sauce. Wing Yip even have a pack of 5 different Chinese beers (see
here) to add a touch of oriental festivity.
It’s even more fun to select your own goodies from the wide range of
jars and bottles on offer. They also have a good choice of kitchen- and
table-ware so add a wok (many here under £6) or some chop sticks,
or how about a tea set!
Wing Yip is one of my favourite oriental supermarkets. I can’t drive
past their Cricklewood store. I might not have a shopping list but I
know I’ll be inside for a while and I’ll return home with several bags
full of food and ideas. The internet now allows everyone to be as
privileged as I. Give some delicious gifts but also treat yourself.
Visit Wing Yip here.
The Bazaars of Istanbul
Many thousands of tourists visit Turkey every year. They
bask on
the beaches, perhaps hire a boat for a holiday afloat and enjoy grilled
fish in seaside restaurants. They have a glimpse of Turkey and its
people but it is, in fact, just a meeting with the modern globalized
facade – a shadow of a rich and ancient culture.
The Bazaars of Istanbul marvellously captures these narrow shopping
streets in both photograph (300 colour
illustrations) and vivid description. Its 200 or so pages hold a wealth
of images of both past and present and show why the bazaars are still,
to this day, so captivating.
The authors Isabel Bocking, Laura Salm-Reifferscheidt and Moritz
Stipsiez bring history to life as they chart the changing fortunes of
the bazaars. They weave a colourful tapestry of turmoil, intrigue,
craftsmanship and industry.
Istanbul straddles East and West. It has held strategic importance in
many a war and revolution and has lost much of its exotic charm over
the centuries, but it still has lots to offer those who are looking for
disappearing vestiges of former glory. It’s still there to be
discovered and relished.
The city has many bazaars, the most celebrated being the Grand Bazaar.
This has been the venue for buying and selling goods from the far
reaches of the world for more than 550 years. For those of us who are
more used to seeing shop signs boasting “established in 1991” that’s
quite impressive!
The bazaar is called Grand because that is exactly what it is. It
contains nearly 3500 individual shops, 40 warehouses and has 61 streets
and alleys. You’ll be advised to take a map with you (one thoughtfully
provided in this book) or, if lost, ask directions from one of the
25,000 (yes, 25,000) people who work there. It’s likely you’ll find a
shop assistant when you need one.
The Bazaar has evolved over the centuries. It has been ravaged by fire
and earthquake. Many of its original features have been lost but there
have also been moves to protect those which remain, and to ensure that
the Grand Bazaar does not represent just an extremely big Mall selling
designer fakes (they are here in abundance) from neon-garnished
boutiques.
There is still plenty to delight the discerning shopper who wants to
have a truly Turkish experience. There are rugs to admire. This volume
has a page dedicated to the symbols found on authentic Turkish rugs.
Take a cup of coffee or tea with the shopkeeper and ask questions. He
will undoubtedly want to sell you a carpet but he will likely be
equally enthusiastic about telling you of the history of his business.
This book will have you drooling at the objects on sale. Yes, there are
tacky tee-shirts but there are lots of handicrafts still to be found.
Leather work, ceramics, intricate metal work, jewellery and prayer
beads all compete for the buyer’s attention. Visit a Turkish bath,
smoke a traditional water pipe, a hookah, and have a genuinely Turkish
meal. The authors even give a selection of recipes for you to replicate
the experience in your own home.
The Egyptian Bazaar (only 350 years old!) is the place that will draw
you like a magnet if you are a consummate foodie. Here you will find
those evocative piles of spices that we so associate with eastern
emporia. There are dried fruits and more importantly, tea and coffee.
There are many sayings woven around each of these drinks. Of tea it is
said, ‘A conversation without tea is like a night without a moon.’ A
somewhat less romantic saying about coffee runs ‘Coffee should be as
hot as a girl’s first kisses, as sweet as a night in her arms, and as
black as the curses of the mother when she finds out.’
The Bazaars of Istanbul is a sumptuous volume which gives a real
flavour of the most fascinating part of one of the world’s most
fascinating cities. A must for anyone who has already visited or who
plans to visit Istanbul.
Book review: The Bazaars of Istanbul
Authors: Isabel Bocking, Laura Salm-Reifferscheidt and Moritz Stipsiez
Published by: Thames and Hudson
Price: £35.00
ISBN 978-0-500-51447-4
Asian Flavours – Kitchen Classics
This is another amazing book from Murdoch. This publisher
continues to amaze me with great cookbooks at unbeatable prices. Each
recipe is triple-tested in the publisher’s own kitchens
so you are assured that the food that looks so good in the book
will
be
equally
attractive
on
your
plate
and
will
be
delicious
as
well.
The
photography
by
Jared
Fowler
is
delightful
with
striking
full-page
shots.
If you are a lover of Asian food then you will find Asian Flavours to
be a treasure-chest of favourite dishes, but it might also introduce
you to some new culinary gems. I am particularly pleased to see a
recipe for General Tso’s Chicken. I had this for the first time when I
was working in the US. Our local Chinese take-out offered a wealth of
mysterious choices but I fell in love with General Tso. It’s an easy
dish to make and has punchy flavours. I’d buy this book for that recipe
alone.
I’ll eat squid at every opportunity. Asian Flavours offers the
ever-popular Salt and Pepper Squid. This is embarrassingly simple to
make but you’ll get lots of compliments from appreciative guests who
will suspect that you have spent some time “out East” or at least
catering college. This dish always looks stylish and it’s light so an
ideal starter or as nibbles with drinks. Another that falls into those
two categories is Sesame Prawns with Tangy Mint Chutney. These prawns
have the advantage of being able to be made a day ahead. Ideal for
entertaining.
Crispy Lamb with Lettuce is a hands-on dish. It’s a great one for
informal gatherings. One fills a lettuce leaf with the cooked meat,
plum sauce and a scattering of spring onions. The marinated lamb is
deep fried to make a flavourful contrast to the delicate and sweet
lettuce.
This is a gorgeous book to look at and you’ll be tempted to use it.
Lots for vegetarians and seafood lovers as well as meat eaters. Many of
the dishes are good dinner party staples as most of the work is done
before your guests arrive. Kheer is an Indian rice pudding flavoured
with cardamom. It’s served warm or cold. It’s made in a pot on the
stove rather than in the oven. Consider this as a sweet risotto made
with Basmati rice. It’s a favourite at celebrations in Northern India
where it is described as the Queen of Desserts.
Asian Flavours offers a collection of must-have recipes. This volume
contains easy but authentic dishes that so many of us have come to know
via our globe-trotting or high-street ethnic restaurant. Indian and
Chinese recipes are included along with those from Vietnam, Korea,
Japan, Indonesia and Malaysia. This gives a whirlwind tour of culinary
Asia and is outstanding value for money.
Cookbook review: Asian Flavours – Kitchen Classics
Published by: Murdoch Books
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1921259104

Eating Korean
Food isn’t just about nourishment. It’s not just about
flavour. It can more be described as a delicious (mostly)
conduit for memories and tradition. We all, no matter what our cultural
background, can remember events that have a food association. For me
its Sunday lunch and making pickled onions and eating my first
pomegranate and my first meal in a real restaurant and...
Celia Hae-Jin Lee has penned a book of 100 or so recipes and they are
very fine but this is far more than a cookbook. This is a personal and
family history of humour, depth and charm. This is a book to read from
cover to cover for its narrative of everyday life garnished with
delightful dishes. Return to find recipes to recreate authentic Korean
dishes and enjoy a unique cuisine.
Celia is a first-generation Korean American so she can appreciate the
needs of a European audience who need an introduction to these
unfamiliar Asian dishes. Korean restaurants are rare in Europe. There
are many to be found all over the USA as that country has had a closer
relationship with the peninsula than has any other Western nation.
There are far fewer Korean cookbooks than, say, Chinese or Indian, and
so, as a consequence, Korean food has remained a mystery.
It would be easy to assume that an unfamiliar and exotic cuisine would
have difficult-to-prepare dishes requiring costly and scarce
ingredients with an inedible end result. Not so with Korean food. US
readers will have no problem finding Korean spices and sauces, and
Europeans can search in their nearest Asian food store or find online.
You’ll discover it’s worth the effort.
If you are a lover of things pickled then this will be the book for
you. Korean Pickled Garlic could not be easier to prepare, using only
vinegar, soy sauce and sugar. Kimchi is the famous Korean condiment but
it’s also used as a base for other dishes once it has been fermented
for a month or so. Again a simple process with a vibrant result. Kimchi
is a must for any authentic Korean meal.
Fire Meat (Boolgogi) is perhaps one of the most celebrated of Korean
dishes. This is stir-fried marinated beef which can be eaten with side
dishes, rice and Kimchi but also as a topping for Bibim Bap which is
the strikingly attractive traditional rice dish. Spicy Sliced Pork
(Dwaeji Boolgogi) is similar.
The weather is cold and a steaming bowl of Korean Oxtail Soup (Ggoli
Gomtahng) would be very appealing. This is a flavourful broth using a
cut of meat that is often overlooked. It takes long slow cooking for
the meat to become tender but the flavour is robust and warming.
Eating Korean is an ideal cookbook for anyone who would like to learn
more about Korean food. It has enticing recipes but its food history
and anecdotes make this a worthwhile companion to other Korean
cookbooks. Celia Hae-Jin Lee draws us in to her family kitchen and
invites us to savour the same dishes that her parents and their parents
would have enjoyed. A great cookbook which makes Korean food accessible
to all of us. I have enjoyed this very much.
Cookbook review: Eating Korean
Author: Celia Hae-Jin Lee
Published by: John Wiley & Sons
Price: $27.50US, £19.99
ISBN 0-7645-4078-5
Veggie Haven
– Easy Japanese Cooking
All you regular readers will know how I have waxed lyrical
about other books by Kentaro Kobyashi and this one
will be no exception. Veggie Haven from the Easy Japanese Cooking
series has all the characteristics which helped to make Donburi Mania
and Noodle Comfort so appealing.
Kentaro Kobayashi is a young man with a passion for food and not just
Japanese food. He started his working life as an illustrator but soon
displayed his flair for the culinary arts. His mantra is “easy yet
delicious, stylish yet realistic”. He has featured in magazines and has
appeared on television where he showed his skill for making delicious
food with little effort.
I like this man’s style. Kentaro continues to present us with
delightful food with a twist. Veggie Haven has Japanese elements but it
isn’t a traditional Japanese cookbook. I suspect this might be the way
modern Japanese eat at home: we in the West have embraced Chinese and
Indian food, and it’s certain that a Tokyo housewife might similarly
enjoy, as Kentaro suggests, a hearty potato gratin or a
deliciously-garnished pizza. Take the aforementioned pizza and top it
with garlic and anchovies. Use a bought pizza base and you’ll have a
classy lunch, light dinner or nibbles with apero in no time at all.
Some liken tofu to a tasteless bath sponge. Consider it a vehicle for
robust flavours. Sweet and Spicy Fried Tofu is a simple recipe which
offers a tapestry of tang that will convert even a die-hard carnivore.
This is the healthy face of fast food.
The cold weather is here in the northern hemisphere so warming dishes
are the order of the day. The original Chop Suey is said to have
originated in America; Kentaro offers Vegetable Chop Suey. This is a
tasty pot of vegetables and the addition of quail eggs helps to elevate
this dish to something luxurious.
Veggie Haven is an ideal cookbook for novices who want to try something
a bit out of the ordinary. The recipes are clearly written and allow
the cook to arrange things in steps. There might be a collection of 3
ingredients for a sauce that can be mixed before cooking starts.
Perhaps the thickener can be made in advance. For simplicity these are
noted in the ingredient list rather than in the method. No need to be
overwhelmed: the dishes are easy.
In the US Japanese ingredients are readily available - America has had
a closer relationship with Nippon than has Europe. Here, most larger
Asian supermarkets stock Japanese ingredients and there are many
internet sites that will be more than happy to supply you with the
goods.
Kentaro Kobyashi introduces us to his Veggie Haven. This will be a
‘must read’ not only for Japanese food lovers but for those who want to
present vegetables with a difference. This might be described as fusion
food but it works for me.
Asian cookbook review: Veggie Haven – Easy Japanese Cooking
Author: Kentaro Kobyashi
Published by: Vertical, Inc
Price: $14.95US, £10.99
ISBN 978-1-934287-62-0
Japanese Cooking
– A Simple Art, by Shizuo Tsuji
The world is shrinking and more of us than ever have taken
advantage of travel opportunities. We move
with ease around the globe and adopt and adapt culture, lifestyle and
food.
Whilst all that is true we could be forgiven for overlooking the impact
of Japan’s food on the West. America, in particular, has embraced
Japan’s food. The USA has a close relationship with the country and
sushi is common. Europe has not had quite that same exposure to
Japanese cuisine although larger towns in Britain might sport a brace
of Japanese restaurants. It might therefore come as a surprise to know
that the Japanese food philosophy has made a great impression on
Western eating habits.
Remember Nouvelle Cuisine? That’s French, isn’t it? Well, the name was
French but the concept was Japanese. Young French chefs travelled to
Japan in the 70s and 80s and were amazed at the simplicity and beauty
of its dishes. They translated that to suit the restaurant-going
populace of London and Paris... and Nouvelle Cuisine sunk like a very
light, Zen and minimalist brick... but the germ of an idea was growing.
Chefs now appreciate aesthetics, flavour combinations and freshness of
ingredients in a different way.
This 25th anniversary edition of Japanese Cooking – A Simple Art has
not been updated and massaged. It stands in its original form with only
a new foreword by the celebrated restaurant critic and food writer,
Ruth Reichl, and a new preface by Yoshiki Tsuji, son of the author.
This book has not been revamped because what was true and valuable a
quarter of a century ago remains so.
Shizuo Tsuji graduated with a degree in French literature from Wasada
University in Tokyo and then worked as a newspaper reporter. In 1960 he
established the Tsuji Culinary Institute in Osaka to train professional
chefs. He studied with the greatest chefs in France and was recognised
by the French government who awarded him Meilleur Ouvrier for
outstanding promotion of French cuisine. He published over 30 books on
gastronomy, music, essays and translations.
Japanese Cooking – A Simple Art is considered a masterwork of Japanese
cuisine. Nigella Lawson has described it as “...quite the most
illuminating text around on Japanese food.” It’s an encyclopaedia of
Japanese food but it’s also an absorbing read. The line illustrations
demystify what might sound like complex techniques, revealing those
techniques to be surprisingly simple. There is not a wealth of
expensive equipment to buy although an enthusiast might be driven to
acquire some stunning tableware to add a touch of visual authenticity
to a Japanese meal.
American home cooks, at least in larger cities, will have no problem in
finding the more exotic of ingredients. There are fewer Japanese
supermarkets in Europe although many Asian stores carry Japanese
products. However there is a good selection of internet sites which
offer food products to stock your Japanese store cupboard.
An example of an easy dish made with ingredients found in most large
supermarkets is Ginger Pork Sauté (Butaniku Shoga-yaki). This is
a delicious and quick dish of pork and shiitake mushrooms cooked with
ginger, mirin, sake and soy sauce.
Vegetarians are well catered for in Japan. Bean Curd Dengaku (Tofu
Dengaku) are small grilled lollies (popsicles) of tofu with toppings.
You might be able to buy the traditional two-pronged forks from
specialist shops but a couple of thin wooden kebab picks will work just
as well. These are tasty and attractive morsels that will tempt even a
Japanese food debutant. Substitute small fish and other seafood or
vegetables such as aubergine (eggplant), mushrooms or peppers.
Japanese Cooking – A Simple Art is a classic. It’s considered
outstanding by the wise and worthy of the international food industry.
It explains the more complex of traditional dishes as well as the
uber-simple ones. This is real Japanese cooking that will delight and
intrigue both the eyes and the palate.
Asian cookbook review: Japanese Cooking – A Simple Art
Author: Shizuo Tsuji
Published by: Kodanashi International
Price: $45.00US
ISBN 978-4-7700-3049-8

Martin Yan’s China
If you are a US-based reader then you will have heard of
Martin Yan. He is the effervescent presenter of
Yan Can Cook which boasts 2500 or so episodes. He is a celebrated chef
and food consultant and award-winning author. Martin is founder and
chairman of Chef Martin Yan’s Culinary Arts Centre in China. Martin
Yan’s China is the companion volume to another of his Public Television
series.
Those from outside America should know that Martin Yan is a talented
and charming chef. He is fun-loving and full of humour. His cheeky
smile and easy manner have encouraged millions of American Public
Television viewers to have a go at Chinese cooking. He is a passionate
food professional and teacher who is proud of the land of his birth and
its culinary heritage.
Martin Yan’s China is a combination of travelogue and recipe book.
Martin’s usual affable manner shines through the text which is witty
and conversational. This chef wants you to cook his food and gives you
every support and encouragement. He offers an index of ingredients and
basic recipes before introducing you to his tempting dishes.
A Chinese cooking debutant might be anxious about the exotic
ingredients. All are available in larger supermarkets, at your nearest
Asian store or online. I know you are internet savvy as you are reading
this review so you have no excuse to not try these dishes.
For the most part the cooking techniques are not taxing and there are a
few tricks that you could use in future cooking adventures. A pasta or
noodle nest makes a great presentation for Chinese but also for other
cuisines. Martin gives instructions for making noodle baskets in Double
Happiness Pasta. A delicious and simple dish which looks spectacular.
I’d consider making these baskets and filling them with an Asian salad
as a light starter.
I am impressed by Martin’s recipe for Preserved Duck Legs. Think French
Confit and add the aroma of Chinese five-spice. It’s another easy dish
but rather smart. Use the meat in stir-fries, stuffing for spring
rolls, in place of Peking Duck, and also in Special Fried Rice. Martin
suggests Preserved Duck with Clay Pot Rice. Buy a traditional clay
casserole from Chinatown for an authentic centrepiece.
Grilled Spiced Pork Chops is an adaptable recipe. Martin uses asparagus
but you can use green beans. Chicken or even turkey could be
substituted for the pork. This is an ideal, quick week-day meal. Just
add a bowl of rice or some noodles and contentment will be assured. A
comforting and warming dish.
Steamed Ginger Sponge Cake is another Martin Yan recipe with a very
European-sounding name. Steamed sponges are always light and this one
is also exotic. It contains not only the aforementioned ginger but
coconut milk as well. That’s a marriage made in heaven.
Martin Yan’s China is bound to be popular with those who have enjoyed
his amusing shows. Entertaining though this man may be, he is also
skilled at selecting recipes. This is a book of balance and charm. The
dishes are designed to be accessible to the home cook. It’s an
attractive volume full of innovation. Lots here that I will enjoy.
Asian cookbook review: Martin Yan’s China
Author: Martin Yan
Published by: Chronicle
Price: $24.95US, £15.99
ISBN 978-0-8118-6396-4

Ching’s Chinese
Food in Minutes
Heat magazine proclaims “Ching-He Huang is the new face of
Chinese cooking”. Fresh-faced and youthful,
Ching already has, however, a good few years of successful career
behind her. Ching-He is a popular contributor to various UK food
programmes and was the presenter of her own series Chinese Food Made
Easy. She is the author of two other cookbooks, China Modern and
Chinese Food Made Easy, companion to the TV series, which was one of
last year’s best sellers.
Ching’s Chinese Food in Minutes is a book equally suited to the
debutante at Chinese cooking as well as to those who have lots of
experience. Ching starts with advice about buying and caring for your
wok. Yes, it is OK to use a non-stick one and I think I have spotted
Ching’s own range in a department store. If you’re new to Chinese
cooking then you’ll need just a few store cupboard ingredients. Not a
long list, and available from your favourite high street supermarket or
mail-order if you live on a shop-free island.
I like this food. A reviewer is sometimes placed on the horns of a
critical dilemma. Nice book – nasty food (that is to say, not to your
reviewer’s taste). But this is a Chinese cookbook that I could have
personally commissioned. There is so much here that I find to tempt my
taste-buds. Rich and spicy dishes as well as some lighter fare when you
want to feel noble. It’s all about great food but fast.
There are some traditional favourites like Peking Duck and Sweet and
Sour Pork – quicker cooking it yourself than ordering from your local
takeaway (takeout), cheaper and healthier. But there is much here that
is new and inspiring. Taiwanese Ginger and Sesame Chicken Noodle Soup
is a delicious winter warmer. Mixed Seafood Crispy Noodle is very smart
and ready in 30 minutes. Black Bean Razor Clams are exotic yet simple
to make and will be on your plate in 18 minutes.
The dishes that have my rapt attention are those with a bit of heat.
Hot Pink Pepper/Black Pepper Chicken is quite a marvel. Five minutes of
preparation and ten minutes of cooking is all it takes to have a
succulent meal on the table. If you have your Chinese store cupboard
set up then you just need to buy the meat on the way home from the
office. A great flavourful recipe for those evenings when thinking is
not an option.
A dish called Sichuan anything is bound to be delightful. Ching offers
a few alternatives including Sichuan-style Sweet and Sour Prawns.
Another 18 minute meal packed with flavour. Sichuan pepper has heat but
also imparts a very particular tongue-numbing but rich mouth-filling
flavour. It’s well worth getting the real thing.
Ching’s Chinese Food in Minutes deserves to become as popular as
Chinese Food Made Easy. The book is bright and attractive with gorgeous
photographs by Kate Whitaker. The “hand-written” introductions to each
recipe help to give this volume the feel of a family kitchen journal.
Lots of anecdotes and food-related memories which add to the charm. One
of my favourites for 2009.
Asian cookbook review: Ching’s Chinese Food in Minutes
Author: Ching-He Huang
Published HarperCollins
Price: £18.99
ISBN 978-0-00-726500-8

Into the
Vietnamese Kitchen
- Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavours
A very apt title, Into the Vietnamese Kitchen. The author,
Andrea Nguyen, invites the reader into a kitchen that is
both personal and representative of all such kitchens across Vietnam
and in Vietnamese homes across the world.
Americans have a familiarity with Vietnamese due to migration of the
Vietnamese population at the end of the Vietnam War. France, of all
European countries, probably boasts the most Vietnamese restaurants.
They are the ex-colonisers who also left vestiges of their own cuisine.
A baguette filled with paté might not seem very Asian but it’s a
popular street food in Vietnam.
Andrea fled Vietnam for the safety of America. The family travelled
light but amongst their few possessions, Andrea’s mum packed a small
orange notebook containing favourite recipes. Food is one of the most
important elements in retaining identity and it takes on even greater
significance when one is forced from one’s homeland.
We in Britain have not had close ties with Vietnam so the cuisine is
not as ubiquitous as, say, Chinese or Japanese. If we want to eat
authentic Vietnamese dishes then we will likely have to make them
ourselves. The ingredients are easily accessible as there are a wealth
of Asian supermarkets and specialist food aisles in regular grocers in
every high street. If you cook Chinese food then you’ll already have
much of what you need.
Vietnamese food isn’t, however, Chinese food under another name. Yes,
there is a strong Chinese influence but there is also much that is
unique. Into the Vietnamese Kitchen is the first Asian cookbook that I
have come across offering a chapter on The Art of Charcuterie. This
section in particular demonstrates the French influence. Perhaps these
were some of the original fusion dishes. There are selections of
sausages here that have Multipurpose Meat Paste as their base. I must
admit that the title is rather off-putting and smacks of something made
of nameless and nasty cuts of unspecified animal. In reality it’s a
harmless preparation of chicken and fish sauce which can be made, with
the addition of other spices and meats, into delicious meat balls or
cold cuts. Garlicky Sandwich Meat starts with the Meat Paste but has
garlic, black pepper and Chinese Five-Spice powder to enhance the
flavour. Fill a baguette with this preparation; pour a cup of strong
coffee and contentment will be assured. A great Sunday breakfast, I’d
say.
Caramel Sauce is a mainstay of the Vietnamese kitchen. It’s a simple
sugar-and-water concoction that is simmered till the correct hue is
achieved. The resulting syrup is added as a flavouring to a variety of
dishes including Beef Flank and Ginger Simmered in Caramel Sauce. This
might sound alarming but actually there are only 3 tablespoons of the
bitter-sweet liquid for 2 pounds of meat. Tasty and simple to make.
Pho is one of the most iconic of Vietnamese dishes. It’s popular
because it’s delicious. The secret is a good broth and it’s worth
taking the time to make yourself or to find a good quality beef stock.
Don’t even consider a stock cube, dear reader. Take your biggest soup
bowls and add noodles, beef, green onions, coriander. Pour over your
flavourful stock and add garnishes of bean sprouts, mint, basil,
coriander, chilies and lime wedges. This isn’t just a bowl of soup,
it’s an event.
Into the Vietnamese Kitchen has a good number of desserts. Mandarin
Sorbet has the flavour of the East but also of Christmas. This would be
an ideal replacement for the traditional Christmas Pudding which I hate
with a will known to few. It’s light and tangy and perfect for the end
of any rich and heavy meal. Coconut Sorbet is also another easy and
exotic cooler but Lemongrass Ice Cream has the edge on sophistication
and would be marvellous to finish any Vietnamese, Chinese or Thai meal.
Into the Vietnamese Kitchen – Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavours is a
sumptuous book and a culinary revelation. The dishes are accessible to
cooks world-wide and they offer a glimpse into a cuisine which is
subtly different. This is Andrea Nguyen’s first book but I hope it
won’t be her last.
Asian cookbook review: Into the Vietnamese Kitchen –
Treasured
Foodways,
Modern
Flavours
Author: Andrea Nguyen
Published by: Ten Speed Press
Price: $35.00US, £35.00
ISBN-13: 978-1-58008-665-3

La Porte des Indes
Cookbook
Some of you, my dear readers, might be able to translate
that title with ease (education is a marvellous
thing). The Gateway to the Indies is my stab at it but why is it a
French title for a book of Indian food? The subtitle is The legacy of
France in Indian regional cuisine and, yes, there is indeed a region of
India that was a little piece of France ...till 1954.
I had already some idea about Pondicherry as my father had spent time
there in the 1940s (his friend, Taffy, being “deported” to India for
having a liaison with the daughter of a civil servant) but I had no
idea that the French food connection had lasted so long. It’s subtle
but unmistakable.
There are in fact deux Portes des Indes restaurants, one in London and
the other in Brussels, where it originated. Not probably the city with
the closest of Indian connections but evidently one which was open to
new culinary trends. La Porte des Indes is part of the Blue Elephant
empire and has the same sumptuous decor, that has become the trademark
of both restaurants.
The vibrant driving forces behind both the restaurant and the cookbook
are Mehernosh and Sherin Mody. The book has also benefited from the
skills of food and travel writer John Hellon and we have the gorgeous
results of their collaboration. It’s contemporary, bright and full of
amazing close-up shots by celebrated photographer Tony le Duc.
But the food is the star. There are familiar dishes but even these have
been given the La Porte twist. I hadn’t expected to see Chicken Tikka
Masala, which has become a cliché of Anglicised Indianish food.
This dish, however, is something a bit smart and has a sauce of
turmeric yellow. A cut above the original.
A signature dish of La Porte des Indes is Poulet Rouge (Chicken in a
Creamy Red Sauce) but it is easy for a home cook to make this dish.
It’s rich and stunning and just what you’ll cook if you want to impress
on a budget. Chicken thighs are economic and the other ingredients are
readily available in your local supermarket.
Duck is one of those archetypical French ingredients so here we have
Magret de Canard Pulivaar (Roasted Duck Breasts in a Spicy Tamarind
Sauce). The meat might make you think of romantic bistro meals in Paris
but the marinade and sauce are all Indian. Madame Lourdes Swamy of
Pondicherry is the originator of this recipe.
This is a restaurant cookbook so it has a chapter devoted to cocktails,
and just the names will transport you to the subcontinent. Monsoon
(Midori, melon vodka and champagne), Tamarind Martini (gin, limoncello
and tamarind puree) are just a couple and there are also some lovely
desserts.
Indian restaurant desserts are often a disappointing bunch but La Porte
des Indes Cookbook has some unique and classy ones. Payasam (green
lentils and tender coconut pudding) is a stunner but it would demand a
visit to an Asian supermarket. Chocolate and Chikki Kulfi is Belgian
Chocolate and Praline Ice Cream and a true liaison of two of the
world’s classic culinary cultures.
La Porte des Indes Cookbook is something a bit special. It’s modern and
full of innovation but it cherishes its French/Indian roots which have
combined to create a cuisine with touches of both. A joy to read and to
cook from.
Asian cookbook review: La Porte des Indes Cookbook
Authors: Mehernosh Mody, Sherin Mody and John Hellon
Published by: Pavilion
Price: £20.00
ISBN 1-86205-643-9

Dal and Kadhi
Sanjeev Kapoor is the Indian chef with the golden touch.
His acclaimed TV series, Khana Khazana, has
enjoyed a 15-year run, has won the Indian Television Academy “Best
Cookery Show” and the “Indian Telly” awards year after year, such is
the popularity of this man.
Dal and Kadhi presents regional comfort food at its best and the book
is as delightful as the food. Each recipe is accompanied by a
photograph by Bharat Bhirangi who has a talent for showing these dishes
in a mouth-watering fashion. You’ll be planning your next meal before
you leave the bookshop.
What could be better than a flavourful dal or kadhi to eat with rice or
roti? Your meal might be humble or you could add a dal to an array of
other dishes to make a sumptuous and satisfying spread. They range in
texture from the rich and substantial to the light and refreshing to
suit the season or the occasion. These are the dishes that people miss
when they leave home and crave when they are in far-off countries.
This book offers 45 recipes that you will want to add to your culinary
repertoire no matter what your home region. They are a broad-based
selection of recipes so there is sure to be something to please every
palate. Dal Makhni is perhaps the most celebrated both in India and
overseas where it has become a restaurant speciality, although seldom
cooked in an authentic style. Maharashtrian Kadhi is a traditional dish
and represents India’s culinary diversity in a most delicious way.
All these dals and kadhis are tempting but as with life in general
there are firsts among equals and I have picked a few that are
particularly tempting. Rajasthani Baati ki Dal is made with split green
gram (dhuli moong dal) and Bengal gram (chana dal) and the resulting
dal is served with traditional baked balls of dough.
Bhindi ni Kadhi is bound to be on my list as I love ladies’ fingers
(bhinda/ bhindi). This is a soupy combination of yogurt and gram flour
(besan) flavoured with spices. The vegetables remain a little crisp
giving the kadhi an interesting texture.
Dal Hari Bhari contains spinach and fenugreek leaves, onions and
spices, and Sanjeev uses it to tempt those who would not normally enjoy
green vegetables. This would be an easy meal when served just with rice.
Dal and Kadhi is an Aladdin’s cave of ideas for quick, tasty and
healthy dishes. One expects lovely books from Sanjeev Kapoor and this
is another in that collection that never disappoints. You don’t have to
spend a lot of money to enjoy good food. This book will show you the
way in fine flavourful fashion.
Asian cookbook review: Dal and Kadhi
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor
Published by: Popular Prakashan
Price: Rs.250.00
ISBN 978-81-7991-415-1

The Blue Elephant
Cookbook
This must surely be the most celebrated of Thai restaurant
empires. It would be diminishing the class and
the quality of the group to describe them as a chain. This is far from
the KF Mac Hut of the Thai food world – think sumptuous and exotic and
thoroughly impressive.
The Blue Elephant has a fine reputation wherever you might find it. and
the cookbook now allows its followers to replicate its dishes in their
home kitchens. Those who have never had the pleasure of visiting a Blue
Elephant will soon appreciate the attraction.
Thai food in general has gained worldwide popularity over the past
decade. More of us have the opportunity to travel to Thailand and also
to visit Thai restaurants in our home countries, and we want to try
those dishes for ourselves. The Blue Elephant Cookbook will offer you a
marvelous array of recipes that represent the very essence of Thai food
with all its vibrant flavours.
Blue Elephant recipes are authentic, attractive and tempting. They are
not over-taxing for the competent home cook, and the ingredients are
all availiable either from your favourite supermarket’s Asian food
aisle, from a specialist Thai food store or by mail order via the
internet. You’ll not only learn how to make soups, starters, salads,
main dishes and desserts but also curry pastes and sauces.
Thai Fish Cakes will be instantly recognised by travellers returning
from sun-kissed Thai resorts. They are delicately soft with a crunch
supplied by a garnish of peanuts and refreshing lettuce. Serve this
with Cucumber Sauce (recipe in this book) and you have a delicious
snack or light lunch, or combine with other dishes as part of a Thai
buffet.
Stir-Fried Seafood with Garlic and Peppercorns (Seafood Krathiam Prik
Thai) is elegant and flavourful and would be an ideal “special” meal.
OK, the prawns, scallops and crab are not cheap but this recipe makes
the best of that seafood, and the finished result is stunning. The base
is Blue Elephant Special Sauce which you can easily make and freeze for
future use.
Tuk’s Duck Salad (Laab Ped) is a dish devised by the aforementioned Tuk
who is a chef at the Blue Elephant in London. The duck is grilled and
flavoured with a spice paste and garnished with fried shallots,
chillies, fresh coriander and salad. A simple dish to prepare but it
has great impact.
The Blue Elephant Cookbook is a jewel of a volume and definitely among
my favourite Thai cookbooks. It will be snapped up by lovers of classic
Thai food as well as those who are regular diners at The Blue Elephant
restaurants. A lovely book.
Asian cookbook Review: The Blue Elephant Cookbook
Author: Chefs of Blue Elephant.
Published by: Pavilion – Anova
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-86205-303-8

Royal Hyderabadi
Cooking
This is a collaboration between two of India’s finest sons
of the culinary arts. If you have not heard of Sanjeev Kapoor (Sanjeev
is
probably
the
most
celebrated
of
Indian
chefs,
presenting
Khana
Khazana
on
India’s
Zee
TV)
then
you must have been living under a rock with no access either to
cookbooks or the internet, for surely you would have read my previous
review of his work! Chef Harpal Singh Sokhi is an expert on Hyderabadi
cuisine, and Sanjeev's respected friend and colleague.
But what is Hyderabadi cooking? It will be a mystery to most
Westerners, who are very unlikely to have encountered it, and it is
revered by Indians, who might also have trouble tracking down authentic
dishes. It’s truly courtly, special and grand but at least this volume
makes those dishes more accessible to the home cook... and what home
cooking that would be!
Royal Hyderabadi Cooking is an elegantly presented volume with stylish
photography by Bharat Bhirangi illustrating every recipe. The book has
a modern feel with the food being the rich focus in a minimalist
setting. Although the ingredients look a lengthy list for some dishes,
it’s mostly spices that are commonly found in the domestic larder.
Apart from being a striking cookbook, Royal Hyderabadi Cooking is also
something of an archive for a style of food preparation that is
disappearing. The authors have been lucky enough to recruit the
indispensible aid of two national culinary treasures who have lifetimes
of expertise. Begum Mumtaz Khan is considered a living legend and is a
member of the Jagirdhar families of the last Nizam, and has actually
tasted the food from the Royal kitchens. She has conducted cooking
classes and hosted Hyderabadi food festivals.
Ustad Habib Pasha has a passion for Hyderabadi food and a wealth of
experience. He has worked in Hyderabad’s most famous restaurants and
has been generous to our authors with his knowledge, revealing the
secrets of aromatic blends of herbs that help to give this cuisine its
distinctive flavour.
There are so many striking recipes to discover here but I have a few
favourites. Murtabuk is a layered stack of chapattis with a filling of
minced chicken, eggs and spices and is served in wedges as you would a
savoury birthday cake. It was Begum Mumtaz Khan who taught the authors
how to cook this to perfection.
Thikri Ki Dal is a delicious and comforting dal which contains amongst
the spices, onions and ghee... 2 three-inch pieces of earthenware! The
thikri are heated till red hot and then plunged into the food. They are
removed before serving to avoid damage to either guest or crockery.
This method is said to impart a distinctive and earthy flavour. Truly
unique.
Double Ka Meetha is a sweet and syrupy dessert that would be a fitting
end to a Royal Hyderabadi meal. It’s a confection of bread, nuts, cream
and saffron and simple to make. I wouldn’t reserve this for just
Hyderabadi meals, this would be welcomed anytime by those with a sweet
tooth.
The title suggests something sumptuous and rich and that is just what
this food is all about. Royal Hyderabadi Cooking presents recipes that
are regal and festive but accessible to the home cook. Amazing!
Asian cookbook review: Royal Hyderabadi Cooking
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor and Harpal Singh Sokhi
Published by: Popular Prakashan
Price: Rs.250.00
ISBN 978-81-7991-373-4

Low Calorie
Vegetarian Cookbook
You should expect something special when you are presented
with a Sanjeev Kapoor cookbook. Low Calorie
Vegetarian really is something a bit different and this could start an
exotic diet trend.
Sanjeev is probably the most celebrated of Indian chefs, presenting
Khana Khazana on India’s Zee TV. It’s been airing since 1993 and its
600th episode is now just a memory. He has won several awards such as
the Best Executive Chef of India Award and the Mercury Gold Award at
Geneva, which has earned this man international as well as home-grown
respect.
Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook is just one of many cookbooks from this
charming, handsome and charismatic man. Each book is welcomed by an
adoring audience who have been impressed by the author’s skill on the
small screen. It’s said that Sanjeev never repeats a recipe and will
not need to for several decades; such is his volume of work.
Low calorie carnivorous and low calorie vegetarian recipes have often
seemed to fall into one of two categories: boring or boring with
vegetables. But Sanjeev’s book will strike the right chord with many
readers who want a low calorie diet that offers food with taste and
texture. If you don’t enjoy the food that does you good then you will
fall back into the same old unhealthy eating habits which got you into
your chubby mess to start with.
Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook is about flavour, and Sanjeev has a
collection of recipes that will tempt even those with no health or
weight issues. This is good food with intriguing combinations of spices
and fresh ingredients. There are Nutrition Information charts with each
recipe to enable the home cook to make the best choices to achieve a
balanced diet.
The recipes are broad-based and you don’t have to be a lover of
traditional Indian food to appreciate the dishes. Sanjeev has French
onion soup but his version raises the bar with French Onion and Garlic
Soup. Spicy Pineapple Boat is light and refreshing but with a little
kick from green chillies. For those who want a cool and summery salad
then Minted Mushrooms should fit the bill. This is a dish of mushrooms,
tomato, cucumber, mint leaves and a dressing of low fat yogurt, and the
addition of lemon juice provides a tang.
However delicious the European-inspired dishes might be, most of us
will be looking for that unmistakable taste of the subcontinent and
it’s here in glorious profusion. Spinach and Cabbage Parantha is a
flatbread with aromatic cardamom and spicy red chilli powder to
complement the vegetables incorporated into the dough.
Desserts are not forgotten. Kesari Phirni is a lovely dessert of
Pistachio nuts perfumed with saffron and cardamom. The sweetness comes
from a sugar substitute such as Equal or Splenda so you can indulge
with no guilt.
Do I have a favourite recipe? Well, you know I do and its Mushroom Dum
Biryani. This is a rice dish made with the traditional method but have
no fear, it’s not difficult and the results will impress both Western
and Asian friends. I’ll make this dish often, not because I have a low
calorie diet (although perhaps I should) but because it’s delicious and
simple.
A Western cook will have no problem finding the spices in local
supermarkets or from one of the many online Asian stores. The cooking
techniques are not taxing and you don’t have to take a trip to Mumbai
to kit out your new Asian kitchen. This is a fascinating book with
recipes that will encourage you to make, eat and enjoy flavourful and
healthful meals.
Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook is the first of Sanjeev Kapoor's books
that I have had the pleasure to review, and there are more to follow.
This volume is bound to be a success with readers from every continent.
Asian cookbook review: Low Calorie Vegetarian Cookbook
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor
Published by: Popular Prakashan
Price: Rs.250.00, £11.69, $25.00US
ISBN 978-81-7154-888-0

Rice, Spice and
All Things Nice
The Observer Food Monthly described meeting Reza Mahammad
as "like being ambushed by a cross between Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen and
Freddie Mercury". He must be one of the most easily recognised Asian
faces on British TV. His effervescent style and playful personality
have made him a popular presenter.
Reza was born in England to Indian parents and was sent off to boarding
school in Panchgani, India, to be educated.
His parents were worried that he would lose touch with their roots if
he stayed in the UK. This provided Reza with a good British education
but he says, “It left me speaking English with a public school accent
and Hindi with an English accent. A hybrid torn between two worlds.”
It wasn’t the boarding school food that gave him a passion for fine
Indian cuisine. “The food at boarding school was vile – Breakfast: cold
fried eggs, watery lentils, stale bread, and rancid butter. Lunch:
bland curry, stodgy rice.” He fell in love with Indian cuisine in the
holidays when he stayed with his extended family in the Western Ghats
in India.
Mr. Mahammad Senior was one of the first Indian chefs to come to
Britain. “My father had arrived here in 1937 and we had been brought up
on stories of how hard he used to work - tales of how he'd have to wait
at the docks for the boats carrying the spices to come in.”
Tragedy struck the family when Reza was 16. His father died of a heart
attack and the responsibility of the family business fell on Reza’s
young shoulders. “There was an obligation to continue what my father
had left behind. It was a duty.” The business in question was The Star
of India Restaurant, Old Brompton Road, South Kensington, London.
This was the caricature of a 1950s Indian restaurant with flock
wallpaper, which wasn’t much to Reza’s taste. He embarked on a series
of revamps and has settled on classic contemporary...for a while! His
mother, Kulsum, was horrified. “But I said to her: ‘Who is running this
restaurant, you or me?’ People thought I was making a terrible mistake
but actually it was the best thing I did.”
The Star of India didn’t have the best reputation for food either, so
it’s been hard work and dedication to turn things around. “When I
inherited the Star of India from my father, I had no clue about
cooking. I picked up a few recipes from my mother and improvised on the
restaurant's existing menu. My mantra is to go easy on oil and make
food appear as appetising as possible.”
Now The Star of India is one of London’s most successful and
prestigious restaurants and Reza is both head chef and proprietor.
Today you are likely to be rubbing shoulders with media types and
“faces” from TV and film (Daniel Day Lewis, Hugh Grant and Art Malik
are regulars) and it’s said that Reza drapes himself across tables and
sings arias from time to time, but that could just be a rumour! “The
years spent managing The Star of India established the restaurant as an
institution and enabled me to explode onto the restaurant and food
scene.”
Those media types come in handy sometimes! One of the regulars was a TV
director who came up with the idea of Madhur Jaffrey (the original
Cooking Star of India) and Reza collaborating on a cookery series that
became A Taste of India.
Reza has become a familiar face on TV with UKTV Food Channel's Delhi
Belly with Sanjeev Bhaskar, the star of Goodness Gracious Me/The
Kumars. Reza’s irrepressible and often camp persona was allowed full
rein which resulted in an exotic travelogue filled with authentic food,
colour and pazazz. The success of Delhi Belly and the popularity of
Reza led on to further series of Coconut Coast, and United States of
Reza.
Reza Mahammad has penned his first book, Rice, Spice and All Things
Nice; it’s a mixture of dishes from his
restaurant, travels, and family recipes handed down through the
generations. “It’s an attempt to demystify Indian cooking,” says Reza.
“More and more people know how Indian food should taste because they've
been travelling, but they don't know how to cook it.”
Rice, Spice and All Things Nice is a dream of a cookbook. It has that
blend of food and travel that I, for one, find so appealing. The
photography of both food and Reza is mouthwatering and the text is
amusing but also encouraging. The man obviously wants you to cook his
food and you won’t be disappointed if you do.
The recipes are marvellously well chosen and offer something for every
taste and skill. There are plenty of classics (Indian Rice Pudding to
die for, Cucumber Raita, Chicken Dhansak) but lots of others which
might be less familiar.
Afghan Aubergine Casserole has surprisingly few ingredients, is simple
to make and delicious. Dak Bungalow Chicken has a longish list of
ingredients but don’t be put off. This is another easy dish to make and
it’s a stunner. Meatballs in a Green Sauce (Koftas Hara Masala) also
has a good number of ingredients but the preparation is easy and you’ll
just need to serve some rice alongside. A good recipe for a large
dinner party.
Rice, Spice and All Things Nice is amongst my top 10 cookbooks. It is a
thoroughly entertaining read, the food is gorgeous, I can make every
dish without tears, and it’s a book I’ll actually use. I’ll need
another copy as this one will soon be sauce-spattered and dog-eared.
The sign of a well-loved cookbook.
Asian cookbook review: Rice, Spice and All Things Nice
Author: Reza Mahammad
Published by: Simon and Schuster
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-84737-049-5
The Asian Grill
Yes, it’s a BBQ book but one with a difference. This will
capture the imagination of those who long for
something more exotic. There are those fire-extinguisher-wielding,
burnt-offering-offering culinary pyromaniacs who think that charcoal
adds flavour. No, my little Webber warrior, my Hibachi hero! The
charcoal is the fuel and not the food; add flavour by thoughtful use of
marinades and condiments.
Corinne Trang is an international chef and food authority. Her heritage
is Asian and European, and she is one of the few who are truly at home
with both genres; but more importantly she loves food. Might sound a
strange and rather obvious statement but there are many chefs and
food-industry gurus who are just doing a job, but Corinne is a chef, a
food professional, and a foodie with all the passionate enthusiasm that
word implies.
I am not a lover of Fusion food as it is so often a compromise. Some
chefs have built reputations on marrying ingredients which should never
even have been introduced. Corinne’s food is easily described as good
food with Asian flavour. There is nothing here that will bring the cry
of horror, nothing that jars, but plenty that looks good on paper and
even better on a plate.
The Asian Grill will gently lead you away (you can return from time to
time) from ketchup, mustard and liquid smoke and will playfully nudge
you in the direction of soy sauce, sesame oil and mirin. All the
ingredients are available in a supermarket near you or via mail order.
The cooking techniques don’t require a training course and you probably
already have the equipment, so you are ready to dazzle.
Back-yard grilling isn’t famed for having a sophisticated meal as its
end-product. It’s more often burgers like hockey pucks and flavourless
chicken. It’s rarely the food that is the centre of attention but
rather the grilling process that encourages conviviality. We marvel at
the “skill” of (mostly) men who only don an apron when the smell of
lighter fuel is in the air. Grilling is simple and was the first
cooking method. Cavemen didn’t say “I’ll rustle up a nice
soufflé for lunch” or “How about a delicately toasted English
muffin with passion-fruit jelly?” No, dear reader, it would likely be
“Pass me the pinny, Unk, I’m grilling tonight.”
Corinne has a flair for flavour, not only for the dishes that are
grilled, but for all the associated breads, rices, noodles, and even
sweets and drinks. There is everything you will need in this one
vibrant and attractive volume. You will be able to compose meals around
the grill that will be elegant but still fun both to cook and to eat.
I love lamb and The Asian Grill has a recipe that is a joy. Lamb
Marinated in Yellow Spice Paste is flavoured with a pungent mix which
elevates these kebabs into something mouthwatering. Corinne suggests
serving these with Scallion Flat Bread from this same book. Pork
Patties could be an alternative filling for that bread, and this recipe
has a distinct Vietnamese flavour with fish sauce and lemon grass. BBQ
Pork is Corinne’s version of the Cantonese classic, Char Siu, often
seen hanging in windows in Chinatowns the world over. This will always
be a crowd-pleaser.
Perhaps my favourite recipe is that for Spicy Sweet Soy Sauce Marinated
Chicken. It couldn’t be easier to prepare but the resulting bird is a
long way from the usual lack-lustre poultry of by-gone BBQs ...or I
might choose Spicy Squid Salad ...but Asian Clambake is impressive
...although...
The Asian Grill is a book stuffed with tempting and flavourful food.
You don’t need to know anything about cooking Asian food, and even a
novice griller should be confident of a lot of compliments; everything
you need to know is here. Corinne Trang has once again produced a book
that will soon be stained through much use, and that’s a fine accolade
for any cookbook.
Asian cookbook review: The Asian Grill
Author: Corinne Trang
Published by: Chronicle Books
Price: $22.95US
ISBN: 978-0-8118-4631-8

Noodles Every Day
To the untutored this might seem an uninspiring
proposition, but it’s perfectly possible to eat noodles every day and
perhaps even several times a day without feeling as though it’s an
endurance test.
Corinne Trang is a US based author, radio and TV broadcaster on the
subject of Asian food. She is a well respected authority on foods from
China and Southeast Asia and has been described as the “Julia Child of
Asian Cuisine” by the Washington Post and me. Corinne has penned
numerous books and has won a raft of awards - her very first won Best
Asian Cuisine Book in the World at the World Cookbook Fair. Not too
shabby!
Corinne has a passion for food and not just Asian food (a casual
conversation with this lady about anything from bread to breakfast will
have you drooling). Her background, a combination of French and
Chinese, equips her very well to take her place in the culinary arena
of both East and West.
Noodles Every Day is an attractive volume with marvellous photographs
by Maura McEvoy. It’s more than a cookbook – this is an encyclopaedia
of all things noodley. Every possible variety of noodle is considered
and a wealth of recipes is offered. This is the original fast food and
it’s both healthy and sustaining which is more than can be said for
most of the popular western alternatives.
Every noodle type has its recipes but you can mix and match to suit
your own taste. The five noodle categories are Wheat, Egg, Buckwheat,
Rice and Cellophane but there is an additional chapter which covers
Buns, Dumplings, and Spring Rolls. Although these are not noodles they
do fall under the “snack” umbrella as do some of the noodle dishes.
Corinne introduces you to stock making and some typical Asian
condiments, as well as basic ingredients. You will have all you need to
be ever ready, with the addition of a few fresh items, for a quick but
impressive meal... and fast!
Wheat Noodles with Spicy Ground Pork is a Szechuan classic. Dishes from
this region are prized for their robust flavours and this one is no
exception although the stir-fried Napa cabbage (Chinese Leaves) adds
sweetness. Stir-fried Egg Noodles with Beef and Broccoli is another
meat and vegetable recipe and a worldwide restaurant favourite but it’s
easy to make at home. It’s flavourful, rich and comforting.
One of the most striking recipes in Noodles Every Day is that for Egg
Noodle Soup with Five-spice Duck. This would make a smart dinner party
dish with its succulent, aromatic meat and the soup served on the side.
For sheer luxury though, Crab-flavoured Noodles with Velvety Crab Sauce
and Green Peas takes some beating. It’s a simple recipe but has a
cheffy quality about it. The crab-flavoured noodles can be found in
larger Chinese food stores but if you can’t get hold of them you can
substitute regular thin egg noodles.
Noodles Every Day is an instructive and inspiring book. It’s
thoughtfully written with the western cook in mind but Corinne Trang is
never pedestrian in her choice of recipes. This isn’t just another
Asian cookbook but rather a vehicle which will help you to appreciate
all the subtle flavours and textures that Asian food has to offer.
Noodles Every Day will surely be another award winner.
Asian cookbook review: Noodles Every Day
Author: Corinne Trang
Published by: Chronicle Books
Price: $22.95 US, £12.99
ISBN 978-0-8118-6143-4

Scent of the Monsoon
Winds
Just the title evokes visions of hot steamy nights with
the exotic (and for me exciting) aroma of damp vegetation and soil. The
atmosphere that assures one of tempting and flavourful food.
Michal Haines has had a warm relationship with spices for all of her
life. Her Chinese grandfather, Stan (you know that any Chinese
grandfather called Stan would be a positive influence) left her with
memories of fine food and a treasured meat cleaver. Michal has worked
extensively in the New Zealand food industry, running gourmet food
stores around Auckland.
Scent of the Monsoon Winds is a multi-ethnic cookbook with great shelf
appeal. Michal offers an introduction to spices and their uses in the
five main spice-dependant cuisines, and she suggests a list of spices
that will allow you to prepare those dishes. There is nothing much that
will demand a vacation to the Spice Islands (although it’s a good
excuse). You’ll find it all in your regular supermarket, or mail order
if you live on a remote hilltop.
The chapter headings are intriguing: Portable Feasts, Spiced Nights,
Winter Blues and Kingly Condiments. The recipes are also a unique
bunch, encompassing some celebrated dishes such as Indonesian Chicken
Rampah and Cheese Sticks, but there is a lot here that will be new to
many readers. Even an impressive book collection would not provide you
with Michal’s own family recipes, which she shares here.
Scent of the Monsoon Winds offers modern versions of some classic
dishes such as Drunken Chicken. This is a tangy but light dish with a
kick from ginger, Szechwan peppercorns, star anise and cassia. Arabian
White Coffee Cream will transport you to the souk: this is a
sophisticated but simple dessert and truly a bit different.
Hot Mezze Hummus is a speciality of the mountains of Eastern Turkey and
is a radical departure from the ubiquitous tepid hummus that we
recognise from deli counters and Middle Eastern restaurants. This
recipe has additional flavours and textures and is altogether more
complex, although very simple to prepare.
If you are looking for a quick meal with impact then you could be
turning to Vietnamese Dinner Noodles. There are quite a few ingredients
but don’t be put off - this is cooking at its basic best. Pirate
Chicken has plenty of punchy panache with Jerk Paste supplying the
heat. It’s another fast meal but impressive nevertheless.
If Scent of the Monsoon Winds has a signature dish then it is, for me
at least, Honey Tamarind Roast Duck. This is a flavourful and succulent
recipe which avoids the perennial problem of dry meat. It all has to do
with the cooking method, and this roast duck isn’t roasted but rather
simmered. This is going to be a new classic.
Scent of the Monsoon Winds is an attractive volume of charm and
innovation. It will be enjoyed by spice lovers who don’t have endless
time to spend in the kitchen. We will, I hope, hear more from Michal
Haines.
Asian cookbook review: Scent of the Monsoon Winds
Author: Michal Haines
Published by: New Holland
Price: £17.99
ISBN 978-1-86966-211-0

Bento Love -
Easy Japanese Cooking
All of my regular readers will know the name Kentaro
Kobayashi. I have reviewed another book of his which had its focus
on Donburi, an underrated Japanese dish. He has now turned his
attention to the evocative bento box.
Most of us would only have encountered a bento box via our TV screens.
They are the stylish packages that are found on Japanese railway
stations. No self-respecting documentary about the land of Nippon is
complete without the western presenter opening his lunch to discover a
savoury and attractive array of rice and accompanying dishes. All very
exotic and exciting, but on analysis we are talking food on the go,
which needs to be delicious and sustaining.
Kentaro has fond memories of the lunch boxes prepared by his mum. As a
growing lad he craved flavourful meat. He was sometimes lucky but
whatever the contents of his bento box he was always excited by it, and
well fed. He has taken the opportunity with Bento Love to indulge his
dream of meat-laden lunch to present some fine recipes, but he has also
included dishes that would be craved by both vegetarians and those who
prefer fish.
This chef has a knack for recipe selection. He has, once again, chosen
dishes that will be tempting for the Japanese reader but equally for
those of us who are not so familiar with Japanese food. There is
nothing here that is bizarre, no ingredient thought delectable only by
the Japanese. This is an accessible and delightful twist on a packed
lunch which is a million miles away from a boiled egg sandwich and a
bag of salt and vinegar crisps (chips).
The first recipe is that for Deluxe Steak Bento with Simmered Shiitake
Mushrooms and Sautéed Watercress. That’s no surprise considering
Kentaro's love of protein. The Pork Steak Bento with Sautéed
Snap Peas and Shimeji Mushrooms is served with Shiba-style Pickles. Use
your favourite European mushroom if you can’t find the shimeji variety,
but you will likely find all traditional ingredients in your nearest
Asian supermarket or online.
Cashew Chicken Stir-fry is a Chinese classic but is included here
because this is a book about contemporary Japanese cooking. It’s a dish
that works well for the lunch box, as does Japanese-style Chicken and
Potato Curry, and there is even Fish and Chips Bento which includes
some broccoli and rice balls.
My favourite recipe is Simmered Croquette Bento. This is a dish made
from leftovers but I think it’s worth the effort of cooking from
scratch especially for lunch. It’s a moist and flavourful dish and real
comfort food. It’s hearty and would be welcome as a substantial lunch
on a grey winter’s day.
We all need to eat and we should want to eat well. The credit crunch
has forced many to consider a packed lunch from home. It’s a great
notion and would save you cash but if that aforementioned lunch is
unappetizing then you’ll soon be back to a curly, dry sandwich or a pie
and a pint at the nearest pub. Consider some Japanese-inspired bento
and be the envy of your colleagues. But don’t forget that you can eat
all these dishes at home. They work just as well on a plate as in a box.
Bento Love - Easy Japanese Cooking is
another Kentaro Kobayashi success. Well-written recipes, stunning
photography by Hideo Sawai and great value for money. This volume is to
be admired but also used. Hope we have many more books from this chef.
Asian cookbook review: Bento Love - Easy Japanese Cooking
Author: Kentaro Kobayashi
Published by: Vertical, Inc.
Price $14.95US, £10.99
ISBN 978-1-934287-58-3
The Sari
This wasn’t, to be honest, what I expected. It has a
bright and evocative picture on the front cover but
this isn’t a book about colourful textiles, it’s about how the sari is
worn and the place it holds in Indian society. It’s a simple length of
cloth but to suggest that is all it is would be rather like saying a
book is just reconstituted tree.
I have always admired women in saris. It’s not just the fabric that
holds one’s attention but rather the form, the drape, the movement of
the material. It’s an ancient dress but one that is by the same token
timeless. It hints at exotic sexuality while simultaneously conveying
an impression of modesty.
The Sari is about the wearers of saris and their relationship to it.
It’s complex and varied but one that has impact. The diverse strands of
feminine Indian society have a common denominator and that is the sari,
with all its myriad styles and significance: it is not just an item of
clothing like, for example, a western tee-shirt - a sari plays a role
in much of Indian social interaction.
The Sari has a collection of personal stories from women who wear or
have worn the sari on a regular basis. For some it’s reserved for smart
evening wear, with western attire being the choice for the majority of
the time. Others are full-time sari wearers who might even wear a sari
to bed to ensure that they are covered from prying eyes at all times.
The sari in many of these cases is used as an expression of religious
and familial conformity.
Indian school girls don’t wear saris and the first time one is worn
heralds the start of adult life. It was interesting to read that Indian
women do, in fact, have sari accidents and anxieties. Yes, there have
been occasions when a sari has become unwound, a careless foot causing
embarrassment. I have tried a sari and I’ll not feel safe in one
without the use of several 4-inch nails and a weightlifter’s belt.
Sari-wearing is an art.
The Sari is a book that has introduced me to an aspect of Indian
society that is seldom discussed. One looks at attractive ladies in
beautiful clothes and one takes the sari at face value, but this
amazing book shows a fascinating aspect of the lives of so many women
of and from the subcontinent. It’s a worthwhile and compelling read and
encourages one to consider the wearer rather than the worn.
Asian book review: The Sari
Authors: Mukulika Banerjee, Daniel Miller
Published by: Berg
Price: £14.98
ISBN 978-1-84788-314-8

A
Celebration of Korea’s Finest Cuisine
Wednesday 8th July saw a small corner of London
transformed into a
sumptuous venue for a feast for the senses. (See
a
video
of
the
event
here.) His Excellency Mr. Chun
Yung-woo, Ambassador of the Republic of Korea to the United Kingdom
hosted a soirée to promote Korean food but also other elements
which make Korea a most fascinating and cultured society.
Mr. Chun Yung-woo was accredited to the Court of Saint James's as
Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of the Republic of Korea
on 29 May 2008.
Before taking up his duties as Ambassador to the United Kingdom, he
served as the Republic of Korea's Special Representative for Korean
Peninsula Peace and Security Affairs and, in that capacity, led the ROK
Delegation in the Six-Party Talks. He joined the Ministry of Foreign
Affairs and Trade in 1977 and had Foreign Service postings to Paris,
Rabat, Vienna and New York.
We started the evening with a welcoming speech by His Excellency. I
must confess that this was the first time that I had ever met an
Ambassador and I was expecting a slow-talking aged fellow who would
have us asleep in moments. This particular ambassador was charming,
witty and a great...well, ambassador for all things Korean. By the end
of the speech I was convinced that Korean food would help me live
longer, run faster and become an overnight stunner. (I’ll have another
portion of Kimchi please, waiter.)
A musical interlude was provided by Ms. Kim Mikyung who played
a traditional stringed instrument called a Gayageum. Her sweet playing
was later joined by the remarkable voice of Ms. Oh
Junghae. This lady has a
voice with a quality that might be described as almost jazzy or bluesy
but with Korean style and emotion. A voice that was appreciated even by
our untrained Western ears.
Ms. Oh Junghae is famous for both her
acting and her performances
of traditional Korean music and song. Ms. Oh was awarded the title
Ms.Chunhyang in 1992. (Ms.Chunhyang is a beauty pageant, but it focuses
on song, Hanboks, playing traditional musical instruments rather than
the exhibition of semi-naked flesh. It’s a cultural event.)
In 1993 Ms. Oh was presented with the ‘Best Newcomer’ award at the
Korean
Taejong Film Festival. She has appeared in numerous dramas and films
and received international acclaim in 2007 when she was awarded Best
Actress at the Nantes Film Festival in France for ‘Beyond The Years’ by
Kwon-Taek Im.
Ms. Oh also teaches traditional Korean music and is a guest lecturer at
several Korean Universities.

The evening continued with a Hanbok Fashion show. You might not
recognise the name, dear reader, but I am sure you have
all admired the
beautifully elegant costume of Korea. The fabrics were marvellous in
both texture and colour, ranging from the most subtle of pastel shades
to striking reds and golds of the Court dress. All of the costumes were
the work of Hanbok designer Kim Haesoon.
Professor Yoon Unsook (described as Korea’s Delia Smith) gave a
demonstration of the preparation of one of Korea’s most
celebrated dishes, Bibimbap. This is perhaps a good introduction to
Korean food as it combines familiar ingredients with Korean chilli
paste. It’s simple to prepare and the easy recipe allows the cook to
use meats and vegetables that are readily available.
Professor Yoon Unsook is a well-known Master Chef in Korea and she has
appeared in several food programmes there.
She has been the Senior Director of the Association of Professors of
Hotel Culinary Arts since 1995. She is currently a committee member of
the Korean Food Cooking Exam.
We guests were then treated to a collection of Korean dishes thatI
suspect might seldom be seen west of Seoul. These foods were cooked for
us by some of the finest chefs from Korea. The picture shows the chefs
from left to right starting at the top:
1.
Kim Ju-Hwan is the current Head Chef at the Intercontinental Hotel,
Korea. He has participated in several international Food Festivals as a
Vice Team leader since 2007 and recently led the team in the Iranian
Korean food festival in 2008.
2. Roh Sang-Hwan is the Head Chef at the Sofitel Ambassador Hotel in
Korea. He has also won several food competitions in Korea.
3. Hwang Nam-Yeon is the second Head Chef at the Sofitel Ambassador
Hotel in Korea. In 2007 he joined the team as they worked for greater
recognition of Korean food abroad; he has been the Vice team leader
since 2008.
4. Yang In-Kwon is the Head Chef at the Hyundai Food System; he has won
the Gold Medal at the Cheong-Yang Food Festival in Korea.
5. Award winning Korean Chef Kim Ha-Jong is the current head Chef at
the Chosun Hotel, Korea.
6. Park Chun-Young is the Head Chef at the Intercontinental in Korea;
he has participated in several International Food Festivals since 2007.
7. Kim Hyun is a well-known and popular television chef in Korea; he
has also led the Korean Food Culture Organization since 2006. He is the
Head of the Korea Research Institute for food and culture and also a
Professor at Korea’s Taekyeung College.
8. Yoon Won-Sang is a section chief chef at Imperial Palace Hotel,
Korea. He also participated in the recent International Korean Food
Festival in France.
Korean food is far from
just pickled vegetables and grilled meat. Yes, there was enough meat to
gladden the heart of any card-carrying carnivore, but plenty of options
for vegetarians. The food ranged from rich and flavoursome to delicate
and light and was attractive and tempting. This is, however, food that
you can make yourself. If you would prefer to taste Korean food before
investing in a cookbook then you’ll find a surprising number of Korean
restaurants. It’s the next big food trend. There are Korean food shops
and it’s easy to find ingredients online. You won’t have to shell out
for a whole list of new condiments, just a couple of pastes and powders
will set you up.
I have said that this will be the next big food trend because it has
everything that Westerners crave. It has both spice (Indian food has
long been popular for its robust flavours) and texture and colour
(Chinese food has always been well-regarded for subtle flavours and
contrasts.) But Korean food is neither Indian nor Chinese food with the
addition of chilli. This is something quite different, with its own
unique palette and combinations. Unique, yes, but not frightening. It
has all the elements that should make it a worldwide success. My only
question is why it has not already happened.
I’ll be bringing you more information about Korean cuisine, restaurant
reviews, recipes, culture, travel and events, and you can visit the
Korean Cultural Centre UK at www.kccuk.org.uk.

The
Complete Book of Korean Cooking
I am convinced that Korean food will be the next big food
trend. It has an appealing mix of
tongue-tingling spice, light freshness and an array of textures. It’s
generally low in fat and high in fibre so will be welcomed by all of us
who enjoy robust flavours but yet seek healthful meals.
The author, Young Jin-Song, is the owner of several Korean restaurants
in Asia as well as Shed in London. His first book, Korean Cooking, won
the Best Asian Cuisine Cookbook at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards
in 2006. The photography (800 step-by-step pictures) is supplied by the
celebrated food photographer Martin Brigdale. He is a prize winner who
has contributed to more than 50 cookbooks.
The Complete Book of Korean Cooking does not assume you know anything
about Korea, its culture or its cooking. It offers an introduction to
Korea, its geography, people, festivals and religion, and gives an
overview to help put food into context. It’s evident that Koreans take
their food seriously and enjoy not only formal and family meals but
also take advantage of snacking opportunities.
There are 150 or so recipes here and, no, dear reader, they are not all
mouth-numbingly spicy. Kimchi is well spiced but you can choose from
several different varieties, from the classic cabbage Kimchi to Spring
Onion Kimchi which is not as fiery, although it is still packed with
flavour. If the cabbage Kimchi proves a bit too strong then use less
chilli next time or make the ever-popular Pan-fried Kimchi Fritters.
These are small cakes of kimchi and tofu and are served with a soy
dipping sauce. They work well as either a light lunch, a starter for
any Asian meal or a snack with drinks.
Stuffed Squid with Soy Dipping Sauce is traditional market food and a
world away from dubious hot dogs that are ubiquitous in the West. This
is surprisingly simple to make but it looks amazing and very chic. Very
little work for maximum impact. Seafood Salad in Mustard Dressing is
another dish that is simple, flavourful and smart and, at last, I find
a decent recipe that includes whelks. A must-try dish along with Spicy
Whelk Salad.
Braised Tofu might be the dish to persuade carnivorous westerners that
tofu is something more than white, flavourless jelly. Consider it a
healthy vehicle for flavour. The cubes of tofu are cooked in a sauce
which gradually reduces to a thick glaze. It’s rich and delicious.
The Complete Book of Korean Cooking has a good selection of seafood,
noodles, vegetables and rice but meat is also popular in Korea. Grilled
Beef in Sweet Soy Marinade is not at all spicy but uses garlic and
sesame seeds to add flavour. Sweet and Spicy Chicken is a dish
appreciated by those who love some heat. This recipe has garlic,
chillies and chilli paste to provide spice and colour to the chicken.
The resulting dish is red and impressive, and could be served with some
plain rice for a quick meal.
This book is a visual stunner. Its step-by-step photographs show every
element of preparation but that preparation is, for the most part,
simple. Buy a couple of jars of chilli paste and you’ll be cooking
authentic Korean food in no time. A lovely book and great value for
money. I thoroughly recommend it.
Asian cookbook review: The Complete Book of Korean Cooking
Author: Young Jin Song
Published by: Lorenz Books
Price: $35.00US, £16.99
ISBN-13: 978-0-7548-1786-4

Quick and Easy
Korean Cooking
Korean food has a place in America’s restaurant and recipe
book pantheon but it’s a new-comer on the
European food scene. There are more and more restaurants to be found
but they are not as common as Indian restaurants, or even fish and chip
shops, those bastions of traditional British dining that seem to be a
dying breed.
Koreans love Korean food, that’s evident, but it’s a cuisine that
travels well. It should hold no terrors for the European home cook as
the techniques are simple and the ingredients (apart from a few spice
mixes) can be found in your regular supermarkets. The end result of
your efforts will be, however, a dish that is uniquely Korean, with all
that it implies.
So what does that imply? Flavour. It’s been rumoured that Korean food
can bring tears of chilli-induced pain to the eyes of seasoned spice
eaters but that’s an exaggeration. Yes, there are robust flavours
aplenty but you can season to taste.
Quick and Easy Korean Cooking is written by Celia Hae-Jin Lee who is a
first-generation Korean American. Her first cookbook, Eating Korean,
was selected as one of the Best of the Best by Food and Wine Magazine.
She writes extensively for American papers and periodicals.
All the recipes here are easy to follow. There are lots of photographs
by Julie Toy to give you a bit of confidence and the book gives an
overall impression of style. Pages have been thoughtfully designed to
give a hint of Korean culture and taste without being overtly themed.
This volume boasts 70 or so recipes that are truly quick. They should
take you 30 minutes or less to prepare. It could be a popular book for
that fact alone. If you are embarking on a new culinary escapade then
you won’t want to be spending a good part of your day waiting to try
your creations. We are talking fast family meals that you don’t have to
reserve for special occasions.
Family recipes they might be but this list includes lots of celebrated
dishes. Bibimbap (a bowl of rice with various toppings) is ubiquitous
in Korean restaurants. Kimchi (traditional pickled vegetables) is the
dish that has made grown men cry but you can choose your heat level.
Boolgogi is seasoned slices of beef and typically Korean.
The charm of Korean food is that there are so many authentic dishes
that are quick to prepare with inexpensive vegetables and spices. Add
some fish or meat and you have a feast. Celia has provided several
menus to enable the novice to combine dishes for various meals. You can
start with the Tummy Warmer Breakfast (Black Sesame Porridge and Hot
Ginger Tea) and finish with the Elegant Dinner Party (Soju Cocktail,
Skewered Beef, Spicy Sashimi Rice, and Poached Asian Pear).
Quick and Easy Korean Cooking is a lovely and gentle introduction to
Korean food. It’s an attractive book that will encourage you to try for
yourself this marvellous but overlooked cuisine. Delicious!
Asian cookbook review: Quick and Easy Korean Cooking
Author: Celia Hae-Jin Lee
Published by: Chronicle Books
Price: $22.95US, £11.99
ISBN 978-0-8118-6146-5

Donburi
Mania – Easy Japanese Cooking
I love Japanese food but seldom have I been offered
anything other than tempura and sushi. Now, don’t get
me wrong, I could eat both those lovely dishes every day but there is
more to Japanese food than raw fish and battered vegetables. There is
Donburi!
What exactly is this donburi? It’s all about rice. Doesn’t sound very
interesting, does it? Top that rice with meat and/or vegetables and
perhaps a few noodles and often egg, cooked or not. Those garnishes
complement the rice which is held in such high esteem by the Japanese.
The author, Kentaro Kobayashi, is a young man with both talent and
passion. He started his working life as an illustrator but soon
displayed his flair for food. His motto has always been “easy yet
delicious, stylish yet realistic”. He has featured in magazines and on
television where he represented the new generation of cooks who wanted
taste and texture in no time.
I am a food writer and researcher and frequent eater, and I had oft
encountered recipes for Donburi but it was Toronto (no, not Tokyo) that
gave me an opportunity to try these tempting dishes for the first time.
I chose a chicken donburi which arrived with a sunny egg yolk nestling
on top of vegetables and tender meat. I have been searching for such
donburi perfection since then.
At last my menu scanning is over and I have help at hand in the guise
of Donburi Mania, which houses between its covers 70 recipes for meals
that are quick, delicious and healthy. You’ll have dinner ready in the
time it takes to cook rice. You can use last night’s leftovers with
some fresh vegetables for crunch. It couldn’t be simpler. No exotic
equipment needed and more importantly...no special skills.
It’s been difficult for me to select a few recipes to represent
donburi. All of Kentaro’s dishes are appealing and encompass a wide
range of ingredients. There is plenty here for a vegetarian and for
fish lovers but the author will not expect you to follow his ideas
meticulously. Donburi is about casual and modern eating so make a few
from this book and then invent your own.
Stewed Pork Donburi makes use of cheaper cuts of meat. This recipe is
more time-consuming than others as the meat needs to simmer for an hour
or so. You don’t have to sit and watch the pork cooking so it hardly
constitutes as slaving over a hot stove. The end result of your
foreplanning will be a silky and soft preparation that will become a
firm favourite. It’s real comfort food that will have you finding
excuses to make it.
Chicken Sukiyaki Donburi reminds me of my first encounter. You can use
last night’s leftover Sukiyaki (or cook chicken in a sweet soy sauce)
so you’ll have a smart meal in less than 20 minutes. The egg yolk might
be alarming for the uninitiated but it forms a creamy coating which is
rich and luxurious. Be brave.
Donburi Mania – Easy Japanese Cooking is the most comprehensive book
around covering just this unique and flavourful dish. I’ll be eating my
way through each of Kentaro Kobayashi’s tempting recipes.
Asian cookbook review: Donburi Mania – Easy Japanese Cooking
Author: Kentaro Kobayashi
Published by: Vertical Inc.
Price: £9.99, $14.95US
ISBN-13: 978-1934287491

Thailand - A World
of Flavours
The author of Thailand - A World of Flavours is Christine
Watson. The name doesn’t sound very Thai or
even Asian but, in fact, Christine grew up in South-East Asia and so
has been well placed to select dishes from Thailand that are certainly
authentic but are also appealing to the western palate. Christine
trained at the internationally renowned Leith’s School of Food and Wine
and now works as a food writer and stylist in London.
Christine gives a tantalising overview of Thai cuisine in the first
section of her book, and presents some classic dishes that those who
have travelled to Thailand, and Thai restaurant-goers, will recognise.
Fish Sauce with Chillies is as ubiquitous in Thailand as, say, ketchup
might be in the west. It’s simple to make but it will add that
distictive kick to Thai food. Chicken Pad Thai is one of the best known
of Thai dishes but Pad Thai can also be made with seafood or tofu.
Mangoes feature highly in Thai cooking, both sweet and juicy for
desserts, and unripe in salads. Christine offers a delicious Mango
sorbet that would be a charming finale to a traditional meal.
Each region of Thailand has its own cuisine which depends upon the
produce found in that area. The north is mountainous and far from the
sea so fish isn’t used so often. Pork, chicken and beef cooked in mild
curries are typical. The food of Southern Thailand has the flavours we
dream about. Coconut, fishcakes, shrimp and peanuts. The tropical
climate encourages coconut palms to flourish and those coconuts are
used to great effect in Coconut Beef Curry. This is quick to make but I
suggest you reduce the quantity of chillies unless you want an
authentically HOT Thai curry. It makes an impressive meal for little
effort.
There is a recipe in Thailand - A World of Flavours that would
encourage any Thai food lover to buy the book: it’s Chilli Preserve.
That might seem strange but it’s a recipe seldom seen. Many books give
rafts of instructions on how to make every dish from slow-cooked
curries to carved fruit but Chilli Preserve is the essence of Thai
cuisine.
Christine Watson is a writer who has evident passion for the food of
South-East Asia. Her selection of recipes shows the best of Thai
cooking and also introduces us to new delights that we can easily make
at home. It’s an attractive and enticing volume and great value for
money.
Asian cookbook review: Thailand- A World of Flavours
Author: Christine Watson
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-320-8

Balance and
Harmony – Asian Food
This is, without a doubt, the most beautiful cookbook I
have ever reviewed. The floral cloth cover is a
vision of cottagey charm, and the quality of the paper used inside that
lovely binding sets this book apart. The artwork that recalls
between-the-wars China is stunning and presents a more stylish
impression than would the more often found shots of a contemporary food
market in Hong Kong (live fish in small buckets and snakes in jars
being the touristy norm) or a cleaver-wielding cook wearing a vest
(singlet or undershirt depending on the national origin of my dear
reader).
Neil Perry, the author, fell in love with Asian food at a very young
age. His dad had a passion for all things Chinese and would take his
son on visits to Sydney’s Chinatown to shop for ingredients and to eat.
These excursions evidently made a great impression on the young Neil.
Several decades later Neil has his own restaurant and he believes his
love of Asian food has helped him produce better dishes, whether Asian
or western.
Balance and Harmony is the name of the book, and the recipes reflect
that, guiding you to taste and adjust the seasonings and spices as you
cook, to achieve a dish that tantalises the palate. Neil isn’t
suggesting that food needs to be complicated, but it should have depth.
The book is divided into two sections. The first part covers Basic
Techniques and Recipes, and the second has Advanced Recipes and Banquet
Menus. I would think that all the recipes could be tackled by an
enthusiastic home cook, but the first chapters would be a good starting
point for the novice or those who are unfamiliar with Asian food.
There are lots of classic dishes here and the book is no worse for
that. Prawn Toast is popular with restaurant goers but
it makes lovely nibbles at western drinks parties. Sweet and Sour Pork
has long had a
bad press. It’s often a nasty greasy mess of stodgy batter coated with
a sauce so bright you could read a book by its glow. Balance and
Harmony offers a homemade version that puts the Panda Paw Inn (I trust
there is, in reality, no such restaurant) to shame.
Tangerine Peel Chicken is a triumph. This is a Sichuan-inspired recipe
and has heat in the form of chillies as you might expect. The peel adds
a hint of citrus perfume that is subtle but unmistakable. Although this
recipe is found in the Advanced section it is in no way beyond even a
modestly adept cook.
Balance and Harmony – Asian Food is gift-quality and a stunner. The
recipes don’t disappoint and cover a wide spectrum of Chinese dishes to
tempt carnivores and non-meat eaters alike. It’s a delight.
Asian cookbook review: Balance and Harmony – Asian Food
Author: Neil Perry
Published by: Murdoch Books
Price: £30.00
ISBN 978-1-74045-908-2
660 Curries –
The Gateway to Indian Cooking
Yes, I knew that a book of some 660 curries was winging
its way to me but I had no concept of what a
book of those aforementioned curries might look like. This is a
seriously big book that cuts no corners and skimps not a jot of detail,
advice, background or explanation.
The author Raghavan Iyer is a US-based Indian chef and educator. Both
those disciplines place him ideally for writing this Curry Bible, this
Subcontinental Encyclopaedia, this Master Work of Spicy Delight. I
don’t mean to rename Raghavan’s book but it should have a title that
more accurately reflects the breadth of the topic.
To tackle a cookbook of this size might be a daunting prospect,
especially for the novice cook. No need to be put off. Raghavan gently
takes your hand and leads you through every element of spice selection,
paste grinding, frying, grilling and simmering. He doesn’t assume that
you have a familiar and close relationship with your kitchen, and
you’ll not be confronted by recipes that are anything other than simple.
660 Curries offers every conceivable curry for every possible occasion.
I am impressed by Raghavan’s recipes for pastes and spice blends. These
take just a few minutes to prepare but add a taste of true authenticity
to dishes. Spices are readily available in stores or by mail order.
The recipes will tempt both meat eaters and vegetarians. Every meat has
its chapter and each vegetable has numerous possibilities. I love
lentils and beans, and I thought I had acquired a reasonable repertoire
of dishes but this book must contain every recipe ever devised. There
are many with which I am familiar, such as Moong Masoor Dal (Red and
Yellow Lentils) and Teen Taal Dal (Creamy Black Lentils) but that’s a
fraction of the Legume Curries listed.
Chicken is popular among non-vegetarian Indians and it was amusing to
find Chicken Tikka Masala. Yes, it’s said to be Britain’s National
dish. Raghavan points out that it was concocted entirely for Europeans,
but is delicious when made well. I guess we can still call it an
authentic Indian dish because it was originally cooked by authentic
Indians.
The chapter entitled Curry Cohorts is as important as the Curry
chapters. The Cohorts are those indispensible side dishes or
accompaniments. Rice is the obvious candidate, and Raghavan describes
10 alternatives to the plain boiled that tends to be the norm. There
are plenty of breads including traditional roti, as well as hearty
Mutter Kachoris (Flaky Breads stuffed with Spicy Green Peas).
An Indian meal isn’t quite complete without an array of other items to
nibble. Papads (or papadoms) can be used instead of bread with a curry
or served as an appetiser with some chutney or relish. Kachumber is a
fresh Indian “salsa” made with chopped cucumber, tomato and onion. It
is tangy and light and is amazing with fish. Nimboo Ka Achar is a lime
pickle and one of the most popular preserves. Raghavan has an easy
version that will add a tang to curries and breads but also to European
cheeses such as cheddar.
660 Curries – The Gateway to Indian Cooking departs from the savoury
theme just long enough to tempt you with Mango Cardamom Cheesecake.
This is unmistakably Indian. Well, OK, cheesecakes aren’t normally
considered to be an Indian invention, but the addition of cardamom
gives the impression that cheesecakes might well have been first
devised in a classy restaurant kitchen in Mumbai. A sprinkle of fresh
pomegranate seeds, and you have a stunning and exotic dessert.
It’s been my pleasure (mostly) to review hundreds of recipe books and
they have been well written and informative, but 660 Curries has a
place in my top 10 books reviewed to date. Raghavan has an easy style
of writing which is engaging and full of wry humour. I spend half my
life eating Indian food and reading Indian recipes but 660 Curries –
The Gateway to Indian Cooking has held my attention, introduced me to
new dishes and encouraged me to learn more. This is one of the largest
tomes to cross my desk (kitchen worktop on trestles) but the quality of
research and penmanship are what sets this book apart. Raghavan Iyer is
a remarkable ambassador for Indian food. Amazing value for money.
Asian cookbook review: 660 Curries – The Gateway to Indian Cooking
Author: Raghavan Iyer
Published by: Workman Publishing
Price: $ 22.95US
ISBN 978-0-7611-3787-0

Khazana of Indian
Recipes
Sanjeev Kapoor is the popular and charismatic host of the
Indian TV show Khana Khazana. He has been
presenting this award-winning programme since its birth back in 1993
and it has been the vehicle that has made Sanjeev a household name in
India. It has also allowed him to take centre-stage promoting Indian
food worldwide and this book brings you, the international audience, a
chance to try for yourself some recipes that have made Sanjeev Kapoor
such an icon.
Khazana of Indian Recipes is a general cookbook rather than one with a
focus on a particular type of cuisine, regional food or healthful
ingredients. This gives the reader an overview of typical recipes that
might even be familiar to those of us who live outside India. Such is
the draw of Indian food that even those who steer clear of the kitchen
will have already eaten some of these dishes in restaurants or at the
homes of friends. Khazana of Indian Recipes will persuade even a novice
that Indian food is easy to prepare, with ingredients found in almost
every western supermarket. Those living in India will enjoy this book
as a good representation of dishes you will honestly want to cook.
A general cookbook should have a bit of everything and Khazana of
Indian Recipes does. Soups and Salads, Snacks, Chicken, Lamb, Seafood
and Vegetables along with Accompaniments, Breads and Rice are all here,
as well as a tempting selection of sweets.
A glance through the pages of this book will give you the impression
that Indian food is quick and easy to prepare. The majority of dishes
have only a few paragraphs of instructions. Don’t be put off if a
couple of recipes sport a lengthy list of ingredients. Closer
inspection will show that the majority of those items are spices that
will doubtless be already gracing your shelves.
Yes, I have favourite recipes but there are a lot of them. Batata Vada,
Kheema Potli, Murgh ke Shami must be near the top of the list because I
love snack foods. Malai Kofta Curry would be my pick for a non-meat
dish; Prawn Balchao for my favourite seafood choice and Chicken Makhani
for that rich and decadent meal that we all need from time to time.
None of these dishes is difficult and every one will be superior to
those found in all but the best restaurants.
But let me just mention some of the sweets that I adore and would
cheerfully have broken an arm for... well, before I found the recipes.
Besan ke Laddoo – few ingredients but the result is worth more than the
sum of its parts. Chocolate Burfi with only 4 ingredients should be
made a national treasure.
Khazana of Indian Recipes might be the book for you, even if you have
only space for one Indian cookbook. It’s clearly written and honestly
shows that Indian meals take no time at all. Throw away the take-away
menu, find the map to the kitchen and dust off the hob.
Asian cookbook review: Khazana of Indian Recipes
Author: Sanjeev Kapoor
Published by: Popular Prakashan
Price: RS 250.00, £12.99
ISBN 81-7154-872-5

India
–
The
Ultimate
Sights,
Places,
and
Experiences
This book is large, colourful, and sumptuous and any other
superlatives you care to mention. It’s a
luxurious encyclopaedia of the subcontinent and covers pretty much
every aspect of life, art and culture of this marvellous country.
India – The Ultimate Sights, Places, and Experiences is a weighty tome
but it’s true to say that the subject is so vast that even this book
can’t cover it in depth. What it does do is portray India in a most
sympathetic and unpatronising fashion. The writers and photographers
have evidently done their homework and intend you to have a broad-based
look the people and places that make India so memorable.
I can hardly begin to tell you how bored I am by TV documentaries about
Suchandsuch’s View of The Real India. In truth these documentaries just
serve to reinforce stereotypes that westerners hold so dear. We are
confronted by yet another rat-filled temple (yes, they are there but
there is more to worship than that) and people living on the streets
(Do Indian producers come to London to film drunks on park benches?).
This book looks at typical Indians who have jobs, who work hard (and a
few that don’t need to), go to school and have dreams of the future.
India is both ancient and new. Modern India is a little over 60 years
old but its soul and character have existed for millennia. Towns in
India had well-developed sewage systems in prehistoric times. More
correctly, times when the west had done nothing much to make history
but times by which India was already civilised and cultured.
India – The Ultimate Sights, Places, and Experiences draws on 700 or so
pictures to lead you through this vast country with all of its
awe-inspiring scenery (everything from mountains to lush valleys, from
desert to jungle). It also introduces you to all its major religions,
its amazing architecture, its art and treasures, and its diverse
population.
India is, at last, taking its place as a world power. Its future
is bright and it has young people who will make a success of this land
that has so much to offer. This gem of a book gives a tantalising
overview of the country and its culture. It’s not a text book but
rather a volume to be enjoyed by the whole family. It’s impressive and
a joy, and astounding value for money.
Asian book review: India – The Ultimate Sights, Places, and Experiences
Published by Dorling Kindersley
Authors: Christopher Pillitz, Gary Ombler, Abraham Eraly, Yasmin Khan,
George Michell, Mitali Saran
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-4053-2904-0

Gardens of
Delight –Indian Gardens Through the Ages
We British tend to think that we invented gardens and the
concept of those spaces as areas of leisure.
English gardens are mimicked the world over and even in countries whose
climates are unsuitable for even the notion of a cottagey, green and
lush space.
In horticultural terms India would be the head gardener and Europe
would be either the apprentice lad or the pot washer, depending on
which particular European gardening nation we are considering. India
has been gardening for longer and on a grander scale than probably any
other country, but its gardens are so often overlooked in favour of
those more stereotypical examples from England, Italy and the classic
ones of France.
It’s not just that Indian gardens are beautiful but there is another
element and one which is missing from most western gardens. So many
plants and trees have a religious or mystical association that adds
another dimension to an already exotic environment. Tulsi (sacred
basil) is revered by Hindus for both its medical and spiritual
qualities. This shrub is unique in that it emits oxygen at night and
was therefore planted in courtyards where people would sleep to avoid
the oppressive heat of summer.
Sandalwood is also known as Chandana in Sanskrit and ancient texts tell
us that the scent of the tree filled the Gardens of Paradise, and it is
still used in Hindu religious ceremonies. In 1792, the Sultan of Mysore
declared sandalwood to be a royal tree and now every such tree has
government protection to prevent illegal smuggling of this prized wood.
The Lotus is the national flower of India and sacred to both Hindus and
Buddhists. It represents Lakshmi, the goddess of fortune and
prosperity, and the flower symbolizes spiritual enlightenment,
divinity, fertility, wealth and knowledge.
Banyan represents the gods Vishnu, Shiva and Brahma and is symbolic of
life and fertility. The tree can grow to an amazing size and the Great
Banyan in Howrah in the Indian Botanic Gardens is among the largest in
the world.
Gardens of Delight – Indian Gardens Through the Ages charts the changes
reflecting the tide of varied influences of culture and religion.
Ancient paintings depict scenes of formal gardens with couches and
fountains, exotic trees and flowers. These gardens were considered
extensions to the inside living areas and often had pavilions and tents
to provide shade and privacy.
Garden design does not remain static and this book has some stunning
examples of modern Indian gardens. The swimming pool of the Oberoi
Amarvilas Hotel in Agra owes much to Moghal architecture but has crisp
terracing that reminds one of classic European gardens in Italy. The
Baha’i Temple in New Delhi is modelled on a lotus flower. It’s a
veritable Asian Sydney Opera House floating on a sea of green. The
podium gardens at the Kalpataru Horizon in Mumbai blends contemporary
architecture with Indian trees and shrubs. Striking.
Gardens of Delight – Indian Gardens Through the Ages is a sumptuous
book and a joy to leaf through. It’s filled with ideas for those of us
who want to create our own Gardens of Delight. It’s a perfect gift for
gardeners and travellers and those who love India.
Asian book review: Gardens of Delight – Indian Gardens Through the Ages
Author: Rahoul B. Singh
Published by: Pavilion – Anova
Price: £25.00
ISBN 978-1-86205-836-1

Food of Japan
It’s the winner of a Japan Festival Award ‘for outstanding
achievements in furthering the understanding of
Japanese culture in the United Kingdom’ in 2000. In the same year it
was also short-listed for the World Cookbook Awards and the Guild of
Food Writers’ Jeremy Round Award for Best First Cookery Book. The
author, Shirley Booth, in 2006 was awarded the Japanese Agriculture
Minister's Award for Overseas Promotion of Japanese. There was no doubt
that this book was going to be interesting.
Shirley has amazing credentials, being not only an award winner but,
more importantly, having lived in Japan and taught Japanese cooking
there. She seems to know just about everything there is to know about
the subject but her addition of historic and personal narrative puts
the food into context. It is that conversational but informative style
that elevates this book to something more than just another ethnic
cookbook.
Japanese food has become more and more popular over the last few years.
Japanese restaurants proliferate and chilled counters in supermarkets
groan under the weight of pre-packed sushi. The price is often
prohibitive and the selection is small. So why don’t we just make
Japanese food at home... and something other than sushi?
Well, we could and should but this is a relatively new food trend and
we need a bit of coaxing. It’s true that the ingredients are not as
readily available in the high street as, say, Indian or Chinese, but I
know you have heard of the internet because you are reading this
marvellously well-executed review. Just order ingredients online.
There are 200 or so recipes in this volume so there will be plenty to
fire the imagination. My advice would be to look through the index and
find a dish that you just like the sound of. Make up your mind that
you’ll prepare your choice at the weekend and then go to the recipe.
It’s unlikely that you’ll find a cooking technique that you have not
encountered before and it’s probable that your dish will have familiar
ingredients. No excuse not to have a go. Japanese food is famed for
being healthy, flavourful and different. We should all be considering
our diet and cooking foods that taste good and do us good.
You could start your culinary adventure with Gyoza. These are not
strictly Japanese in origin but are popular Chinese dumplings adopted
in the same way as Europeans have adopted kebabs. These are easy to
make and a good way to disguise cabbage. Chicken Teriyaki is simple to
prepare and tasty. I have used the Teriyaki sauce as a marinade for
salmon so the recipe can be adapted for non-meat eaters.
One dish that will be popular with westerners will be Gyudon. It is,
like so many here, simple with few ingredients but lots of flavour.
It’s fried beef and onions with an added sauce of typical Japanese
flavours: soy, mirin and ginger. Serve over a bowl of rice and you’ll
have satisfied guests.
Food of Japan is a lovely book that is sure to become a classic.
Shirley Booth presents what could be an intimidating subject in an
accessible and witty fashion. This is a must for anyone who has an
interest in Japanese food or culture.
Asian cookbook review: Food of Japan
Author: Shirley Booth - http://www.shirleybooth.co.uk/index.html
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £12.99
ISBN 1-904010-21-0
Virtual Dinner
for Modern Spice
Now, here's an interesting concept - a "virtual" meal with
all the guests
offering dishes that they have made from a particular cookbook. In this
case Modern Spice by Monica Bhide. View the whole meal at http://mbhide.typepad.com/
Here are my chosen and thoroughly scrumptious dishes and the review of
Modern Spice to round off the occasion.

Beet Salad with Yogurt Dressing
This is a revelation. We Northern Europeans are familiar
with beetroot pickled in mouth-puckering vinegar but Monica Bhide
presents us with a dish that is both sweet and zesty, light and
delicious. The tang of ginger makes a surprisingly good marriage with
the yogurt and vegetables. The subtle spices allow this dish to work
well as part of an Indian meal, a starter for a western summer lunch,
or as part of a vegetarian buffet. Don’t be tempted to mix the dressing
too thoroughly with the beets. A drizzle will give you a striking plate
of crisp white, powder pink and rich red.
Rice Pudding and Mango Parfait
The first thing I would advise is to change the recipe!
That sounds like the start of a review of a bad recipe... but read on.
The change that I would advise is to double the quantity of this
delicious confection. Monica suggests that this dish would be enough
for 6 people but three of us sampled this rice pudding... and we
sampled it again, and we all agreed that it’s a winner. All your guests
will want a second helping of this fragrant and creamy dessert – a cool
version of the more traditional pudding and, in my humble opinion, an
improvement. The mango adds an interesting texture and freshness but if
you are not a lover of mango then this dish would work equally well
with soft fruits and berries or apple purée. Bananas turn this
dessert into comfort-food heaven.

Eggplant and Tomatoes with Cilantro
This is a versatile dish with authentic Indian flavours.
The texture makes this a real candidate for suppers by the fire, or for
rustic lunches. Monica has crusty bread as the accompaniment and that
would be lovely, but I’ll eat mine with roti and Indian pickles. Try
this with your next roast dinner: Idaho potatoes are a key ingredient
here but for those of us who have no idea where Idaho is, we can use
our favourite local potato, it will work just as well. I’ll make this
again!
Modern Spice
You know, dear reader, that Indian food is my passion.
It’s been my pleasure to review many Indian
cookbooks written by India-born Indians, UK-born Indians, India-born
English, and now an India-born Indian living in the USA. Monica Bhide
is that Indian and she has penned a most delightful book that will be
as well received on this side of the pond as it is bound to be in the
US.
Modern Spice takes a look at Indian food and gives it a twist. None of
us have endless time to spend in the kitchen. We want food that is
flavourful, healthy and attractive but we don’t want to be taking all
day cooking it. Monica has a life full of children, work and husband
but she still wants to present food that reflects her rich heritage.
She takes advantage of ingredients that are readily available in
western supermarkets and adds Indian spices to create a selection of
new recipes that are both Asian and Western. This isn’t fusion food,
it’s evolution food.
You don’t have to be a practised preparer of subcontinental food. There
is plenty of advice here to set you off on your culinary journey. The
first chapters introduce you to the spice pantry and then Monica’s
Kitchen Rules. Nothing to make you anxious, just good sound cooking
know-how.
Monica has captured the essence of Indian food but she has transformed
it. These dishes are both accessible and charmingly different from
those that we more often see in European-targeted cookbooks. The Indian
“Burger” is traditional street food but Monica has adapted it for the
western kitchen. This is comfort food at its spicy best. Heirloom
Tomato Salad with Chat Masala has few ingredients and fewer directions
but the result is both refreshing and spicy. Again, it’s using great
produce to present something that is unique and appealing.
It’s difficult to choose just a couple of favourite recipes from Modern
Spice. The Legendary Chicken 65 will become... well, legendary. It’s
that combination of deep-fried food (don’t look at me that way, I am
not eating it every day) and a spicy oil as a garnish.
Green Beans Subzi can be made with frozen green beans. This is a
marvellous side dish to some plain roast meat. Yes, it has the
unmistakable flavour of India but you don’t need to use Indian dishes
just with Indian meals. There is so much in Modern Spice that you can
mix and match with the European.
True, this is a cookbook, and a very fine one, but if you just read the
recipes you will miss so much. Monica’s life has taken her from India
to Bahrain and then to America. Modern Spice is a book made richer by
family anecdotes, stories of laughter and tears. It’s a warm-hearted
page-turner with lovely recipes. Modern Spice should become a classic
of contemporary Indian cuisine. It’s not a compromise, it’s fresh and
inviting.
Asian cookbook review: Modern Spice
Author: Monica Bhide
Published by: Simon and Schuster
Price: $25.00, £17.19
ISBN 13: 978-1-4165-6659-5

An Indian Kitchen
This is a cookbook that works for me on several levels.
The author is relatively unknown, it’s spiral-bound so it’s a book you’ll be persuaded to use in your kitchen,
and thirdly it’s sold in a good cause.
The author, Farida Khan, is an amazing lady. She didn’t start her
working life with catering in mind. Farida was a gifted medical student
at the Chittagong Medical College when she married a young surgeon,
Majid Khan, and three days later they set off for a new life in Somalia
where they were presented with many challenges including finding
somewhere to eat!
Farida had to learn to cook out of sheer necessity but it’s evidently a
talent that might have remained hidden had she not left her own
country. That would have been a great loss to her friends as well as to
the many charities that have benefited from her skill as a cook and
baker.
The Khans moved to Edinburgh in 1966 and Farida began to build a
reputation for fine hospitality. She was urged to give cooking lessons
which eventually led to her setting up her own catering company. Her
birthday and wedding cakes are legendary but she has always found time
to support charities and in this case Cancer Research UK.
If you are the thoughtful sort you will buy this book to support this
very worthwhile cause, but isn’t it good when you actually get
something worthwhile in return. This is a rather good cookbook that has
some great Indian recipes but also some European dishes such as Roasted
Tomato and Basil Soup, and Pavlova.
The Indian recipes are a lovely collection of family favourites and
some that might not be so well known by non-Indians. The Bread chapter
has chapatis and puris as you might expect but there is also Aloo
Paratha and Puran Puri. The Rice chapter offers Vegetable Pillau and
Chicken Pillau but also includes Masoor Pillau which is a rich rice
dish with lamb and lentils.
You’ll expect me to wax lyrical about a particular recipe and I won’t
disappoint you. It’s Delhi Korma, a recipe given by Farida's cousin.
Korma has something of a bad rap. It’s a dish ordered by those who
visit Indian restaurants under coercion. It’s an item sought by those
who don’t actually like Indian food. Korma sauce is a supermarket
staple which invariably ranges from over-sweet to bland. Try this
recipe and you’ll find yourself converted to Subcontinental food in
general and a real korma in particular. Simple to make, authentic and
delicious. It’s mild and comforting and a world away from anything
you’ll find in most restaurants.
An Indian Kitchen is a cookbook with the feel of a well-loved archive.
You’ll enjoy the recipes, which aren’t over taxing even for the novice.
Your family will thank you for buying this book... and so will Cancer
Research UK.
Asian cookbook review: An Indian Kitchen
Author: Farida Khan
The book retails for £10 from all Specsavers stores throughout
Scotland and is being sold in aid of Cancer Research UK. If people
south of the border are interested in purchasing the book then please
contact susanne.grant@beattiegroup.com. She will liaise with you with
regard to payment, and postage and packaging.
The Complete Asian
Cookbook
I first came across Charmaine Solomon in the 1970’s. My
first recipe book was Charmaine’s Chinese
Cookbook and I am still using it today (well, actually, last Saturday
night). It’s a treat to have The Complete Asian Cookbook, which is a
mammoth one-stop Asian recipe book that covers those countries that
constitute what we in the West consider Asia. Not the geographic Asia
which would include parts of Turkey and Iran etc, but the Asia from
China to Indonesia, from Pakistan to Japan
Ken Hom has written the foreword and he says “I trust that this major
culinary work will be a companion to your cookery books as well as
being used as a standard reference...” One glance will tell you that
this volume is noteworthy. It’s a mine of information on food history,
culture and practice for all the main Asian cuisines.
Although this is a formidable volume it’s a cookbook that is meant to
be used. It’s ideal for those who have already discovered a passion for
cooking Asian food but also for those who would like to. Charmaine
doesn’t assume you know anything about the subject. She guides you
gently through the basic techniques and even gives you a convenient
shopping list for those store cupboard ingredients for each of the
cuisines.
The chapters are divided by country and the lesser-known culinary
nations are also given space. There are few books that focus on Sri
Lankan dishes and probably still fewer that present the food of Burma.
Each section has a wealth of classic dishes as well as family-style
recipes, and the sheer volume is almost overwhelming!
I do have favourite recipes. Crisp Fried Pork with Sweet and Sour Sauce
is a Chinese restaurant staple but it’s often heavy and greasy. This
recipe is lighter and fresher-tasting than the take-away favourite.
This recipe also works well with chicken and prawns and I often use the
sauce over rice with vegetables.
Some Asian recipe books are a bit light on sweets. India has some of
the finest as the sweetshops even in the UK will attest. Some of these
delights are easily made at home and your guests will be impressed by
an authentic Asian dessert rather than a scoop of trifle. Kulfi is a
delicious Indian ice cream and the home-made version is far superior to
the commercial offerings of the larger supermarkets. Mysore Pak, like a
shortbread, has
crumbly texture and has a delicate hint of cardamom and almond. Just
right with a cup of afternoon tea. Barfi is probably the most common of
Indian sweets and comes in many colours and flavours but The Complete
Asian Cookbook has probably the most popular - Barfi Pista made with
Pistachio nuts. Irresistible.
The Complete Asian Cookbook doesn’t have a picture for every recipe
(there are 70 recipes just starting with the letter A!) but there are
sufficient to give the impression of a sumptuous book that you will
want to use. Yes, its size is impressive but the content is what will
attract the reader. It’s a book of reference, charm and practicality.
Amazing value for money!
Asian cookbook review: The Complete Asian Cookbook
Author: Charmaine Solomon
Published by: Grub Street
Price: £25.00
ISBN 1-9040-1018-0

The Cinnamon Club
Cookbook
The title evokes pictures of colonial plantations with a
menu of Anglo-Indian dishes and probably jam
roly-poly in sweltering heat. That vision could not be further from the
truth. This is all about classy and contemporary Indian cooking which
manages to give a nod to that other fine cuisine... French.
The authors, Iqbal Wahhab and Vivek Singh, present us with a book
filled with recipes from their celebrated Cinnamon Club restaurant in
Westminster, London. This is a cut above (in fact many cuts above) your
high-street curry house. This magnificent building is home to elegant
dining, and it just happens to be Indian dining.
There is a move away from the long-familiar, standard fare on offer at
the local take-away. We have travelled to the subcontinent and eaten in
Asian friends’ homes in the UK, so we know that there is something
better to be had. The Cinnamon Club Cookbook introduces a new concept
which combines the best of Indian food with the presentation that we
would normally expect from an up-market eatery in Paris. The authors
have added wine recommendations which will be a relief to those of us
who yearn for something other than a pint of Cobra with our spicy meals.
The recipes are surprising and tempting. Rabbit Tikka is ideal cooked
on the barbeque with a nice chilled glass of Syrah from the Languedoc
in France alongside. Spice-crusted Rib Eye of Beef with Masala
Sautéed Potatoes would make an exotic change for Sunday lunch,
served with wine from the Douro Valley in Portugal.
My favourite dishes are the accompaniments. Rajasthani Chickpea
Dumplings with Yoghurt is a dish not often found on restaurant menus.
Punjabi Black Lentils with Tomatoes and Cream would make a meal alone
with just some fresh roti. But the chapter with the most comfort food
has got to be Breakfast with such delights as Potato-stuffed Parathas,
and Haleem which is a lamb stew with lentils and wheat. OK, so it’s a
substantial meal but lovely on a cold winter morning.
Cinnamon Club Cookbook is a book packed with innovation. It will
elevate home cooking to something for those special occasions when you
want to get out the real napkins and buy a good bottle of wine.
Some say that there are three outstanding cuisines in the world:
French, Chinese and Indian. For me Indian food is at the top of the
list for flavour, colour and variety. It’s a cuisine I long to learn
more about and the more I learn the more I realise I don’t know. The
Cinnamon Club Cookbook is a delightful tool to continue my education.
Asian cookbook review: Cinnamon Club Cookbook
Authors: Iqbal Wahhab and Vivek Singh
Published by: Absolute Press
Price: £25.00
ISBN 13: 978904573012

The Chopsticks Diet
I guess that just the word “diet” will have half of my
dear readers turning the page (if they were able to
do such a thing on a website) and the other half waiting with bated
breath for the next word that will change their lives completely. For
those diet-haters I ask you to read on. For those who expect a magic
solution for weight loss with no effort I must tell you there will
never be one, but you might just find that this book helps.
Kimiko Barber is an award-winning author of books on Japanese cooking.
The Chopsticks Diet is slightly different from others of Kimiko that I
have reviewed. They focused on taste and some of the renowned
health-giving properties of Japanese food. The Chopsticks Diet takes a
slightly different and rather revolutionary approach, that of the
combination of appropriate foods and the use of chopsticks.
The dishes that Kimiko offers are tempting to the taste buds and a
feast for the eye. I am not a great lover of health foods that are
bland and unappetising. We shouldn’t consider weight problems as an
illness that can only be treated by unpleasant medicine in the shape of
unpalatable meals. That just feels like punishment and reinforces the
impression that we have been “bad”.
The key is in the title “Chopsticks”. If you use chopsticks to eat your
food (OK, we will exclude soup) then you are bound to lose weight. You
will naturally eat slower and take smaller mouthfuls and this fools you
into thinking that you have eaten more than you have. Meals will be
smaller but you will not feel deprived or hungry.
Yes, you could continue to eat your habitual foods with chopsticks and
you would probably lose some weight, but how much nicer it is to enjoy
a dish that is attractive and looks like it SHOULD be eaten with
chopsticks. If you are going to make changes then have some fun.
The recipes in The Chopsticks Diet are enticing. There are just a few
uniquely Japanese ingredients but they will be readily available from
larger high street supermarkets, or online if you are a computer-savvy
shopper. The basics are fresh vegetables, fish and noodles and will be
healthful even if eaten with a fork.
The Domburi recipes are perhaps my favourite. The Chopsticks Diet has a
selection of these dishes that are quick and easy to prepare. It’s rice
with a variety of toppings and I think Domburi should be as
well-publicised as its cousin, sushi. Egg and Spinach Domburi is
comfort food Japanese style. The egg creates a sauce for the rice and
gives a marvellously silky texture. A classic.
The Chopsticks Diet is a fresh and welcome approach not only to weight
loss but to healthy eating in general. The recipes are stunning but not
difficult. Gone are the days of cardboard crackers and calorie
counters. Eat well and enjoy your food. It’s doing you good.
Asian cookbook review: The Chopsticks Diet
Author: Kimiko Barber
Published by: Kyle Cathie
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-85626-826-4

Made in India
My passion for Indian art started in the 1960s when UK
shops were filled with all manner of Asian textiles,
pictures and ornaments. These were the years of pop art, Hari Krishna
and tie-dye. Made in India reflects “real” popular Indian art, that is
to say the art available to the masses via advertising hoardings, boxes
of matches, calendars etc. It ranges from primitive to elegant but
always evocative.
The authors are evidently enamoured with this art form as they have
produced similar volumes for Made in China and Made in Japan. Kalim
Winata is a computer animation artist and an expert on Asian art. Reed
Darmon has designed numerous books and gift products published by
Chronicle Books.
Made in India is a chunky, compact volume that offers hundreds of
images of everyday Indian graphic design from past centuries. They
include folk art, religious prints, and black and white postcards from
the time of the Raj, and artwork for children’s books. It’s a book to
linger over.
Film has had a big impact on popular art. Made in India has a section
devoted to that genre. Not the glitzy posters of Bollywood but
marvellous romantic portraits of Ashok Kumar, for example, who was the
king of the movies between the 30s and the 60s.
The transport posters are quite lovely and the artistic equal to any
much-admired European equivalent. The luggage labels for celebrated
hotels such as the Taj and the Oberoi would have adorned the cases of
rich travellers of a century ago. An Air India fan of the 1960s is a
snapshot of the Flower Power style of that era.
Do I have a favourite image from this lovely little book? Well, yes and
it has to be of the goddess Saraswati. This representation is said to
have been modelled on Bollywood star Hema Malini. It is a marvellously
vibrant and charming print full of colour and religious symbolism. It
remains stereotypically Asian while hinting at European Art Deco of the
1930s.
Made in India will be sought by any lover of art history, of popular
art, of folk art or of all things Indian. It offers a peek into
advertising graphics of the subcontinent. It’s amusing and
thought-provoking.
ASian book review: Made in India
Authors: Kalim Winata, Reed Darmon
Published by: Chronicle Books
Price: £8.99
ISBN 13: 978-0811865029

Japan – Eyewitness
Travel
You can travel to many countries and get by without a
guidebook. You might get lost, you might wish you
had the address of a hotel that had sheets on the beds, and you might
possibly even regret not taking a packed lunch... but you’ll get by.
Japan is a bit more difficult to negotiate without a bit of
professional advice.
Japan is full of contradiction and enigma. It’s ultra modern in so many
ways but it clings to its traditions. It has a matter-of-fact attitude
to nudity in the communal bath houses but remains conservative in
matters of morals. It’s a country that has embraced western-style fast
food but offers death-dicing fish dishes and live octopus. Comic books
are celebrated but religious festivals and rituals are still practised
even by the young, who will pray for good exam results (although I
expect lots of western students have secretly done the same).
This is a country that has caused anxiety in many a visitor. It’s not
the threat of violence or antisocial behaviour (less likely here than
most other countries) it’s the fear of making a social gaff, of
offending a host or a colleague. Japan – Eyewitness Travel goes some
way to steering you through the problems you might encounter when
meeting the locals. There are few rules to remember but it’s a good
idea to know what they are before you land in Tokyo.
The Japanese are polite and understanding of foreign visitors but
you’ll be less embarrassed if you can conform to the general norm of
behaviour. Take shoes for example... or rather take shoes off. You’ll
be able to tell when removing shoes is appropriate. There will likely
be several pairs of empty ones by a door and probably a pair of
slippers as well. If in doubt... watch what others do.
Japan – Eyewitness Travel doesn’t leave much to chance. Everything is
discussed, from dining etiquette to bathing etiquette. You might still
feel a little out of place but at least this book will enable you to
interact with the Japanese and leave a positive impression. You’ll
learn about culture, history and religion and be able to make your own
travel itinerary. The maps are superb and the photography is marvellous.
You can read a pile of books on Japan before you go. One of them should
be Japan – Eyewitness Travel. You’ll only want to take one so let it be
one that will introduce you to every region of this lovely country,
that will offer dates of festivals, addresses of restaurants, and a
great selection of hotels. Most importantly it will offer support to
enable you to feel comfortable with this unfamiliar culture. This book
will whet your appetite for the trip.
Asian book review: Japan – Eyewitness Travel
Published by: Dorling Kindersley
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-1-4053-1221-9

Bollywood Posters
Over the years, Sheena Sippy has shot ad campaigns for
Johnson’s Baby Soap and others. She has also
immortalised celebrities such as Zakir Husain, international model
Naomi Campbell and politician and ex-cricketer Imran Khan. Sheena also
undertakes freelance assignments for fashion magazines like Verve and
Elle.
She was probably destined to do great things. She comes from one of
India’s best-known film families. Sheena is the eldest daughter of
director Ramesh Sippy, best known for directing the popular and
critically acclaimed film Sholay (Embers). Sheena’s grandfather, G.P.
Sippy, is known for several popular Bollywood hits such as Seeta Aur
Geeta, Saagar and Raju Ban Gaya Gentleman.
The text for this amazing posterama is written by Jerry Pinto. He has
had an long career which started at the tender age of 16. He wasn’t a
trainee journalist or a “best boy” for Bollywood movies, he was a maths
tutor! He has had a wealth of experience in the world of writing. He
has penned poetry, fiction, non-fiction, and in 2006 he wrote Helen:
The Life and Times of an H-Bomb, an affectionate portrayal of the
dancing legend who had survived in the heady Mumbai film industry for
30 years.
Bollywood Posters is a glossy, large-format volume that will be sought
after by Bollywood film enthusiasts, lovers of all things Indian and
those who are fascinated by popular art. It contains over 200
posters covering all styles of film. Posters of original films are
contrasted with the remakes illustrating the change in taste and
printing techniques.
This magnificent book charts the history of these posters from the
beautifully hand-painted examples of the first posters to the
digitally-perfect productions of the modern era. Perfect with regard to
crispness of image, perhaps, but there was indeed something magical
about the works of art of those long-gone days when the swish of a
large-scale brush could draw the viewer into another world. This genre
must be considered the archetypal Popular Art, as India has a huge
population of film-goers who have even been rumoured to sell their own
blood to buy a ticket to the movies.
It’s impossible to overestimate the importance of these film posters,
not only to the Mumbai film industry but to the film-going public.
Vibrant colour and scenes of gods, villains, beautiful women and an
array of weaponry have graced the streets of Indian cities for
generations. They advertise films of courage, comedy, drama and despair
but the posters are now, quite reasonably, adored for themselves. They
tell the story of Indian film and Indian society. Fabulous!.
Asian book review: Bollywood Posters
Author: Jerry Pinto
Photographer: Sheena Sippy
Published by: Thames and Hudson
Price: £19.95
ISBN 978-0-500-28776-7

Raghu Rai’s Delhi
Raghu Rai may not be a name familiar to you unless you are
a
photography professional. He has, however, had a career
which has been so
noteworthy that he was awarded the Padmashree in 1971, one of India’s
highest
civilian awards. Raghu’s National Geographic article “Human Management
of
Wildlife in India” won him high praise in 1992. He has won national and
international awards, and has exhibited in Europe, Japan and Australia.
His
work has appeared in many of the world’s most prestigious magazines and
newspapers including Time, Life, GEO, The New York Times, Sunday Times,
Newsweek, The Independent, and the New Yorker.
Raghu Rai’s Delhi is an archetypal coffee table book... that
is to say that it is the size of a small coffee table. I have reviewed
many
large-format books but this is the largest and the most impressive.
This is surely
going to become a classic not only of Indian photographic subject
matter but of
photographic work in general, not for reasons of sheer volume but for
quality
of composition.
This book is the third that Raghu Rai has published on Delhi
and it spans 40 years of this man’s celebrated work. He has enjoyed
changes in
photographic technology over those years and now carries only a digital
camera.
He hasn’t turned his back on black and white, he assess each shot and
converts
colour to monochrome, and the mix of both genres adds much to this
major work.
The colour pictures have vibrancy and impact and the black and white
show mood
and texture.
You don’t have to have a passion for the subcontinent to
appreciate Raghu Rai’s Delhi. It is magnificent in its representation
of humanity
that we can all relate to. This book dwells neither on poverty nor on
opulence,
it shows candid scenes from everyday life, scenes that might have gone
unnoticed or considered banal by those of us with a less practised eye.
Each
shot captures a never-to-be-repeated moment. A story vividly painted.
Do I have favourite pictures? Perhaps. “Peeping Faces, New
Shopping Complex” shows a modern, light and airy sari shop with shelves
filled
with precisely folded lengths of gorgeous fabric. Modern furniture
gives an
almost Scandinavian feel to this picture which does still manage to
speak of
Indian style and grace. The facing page is “Reflections at Pizza Hut”
showing a
scene that could be repeated all over the world, but the reflections in
the
window suggest an older India.
Raghu Rai’s Delhi is quite simply the seminal photographic
work on this amazing city. I have pored over this book for hours. Each
frame is
a masterpiece in its own right. Raghu Rai deserves his praise and
awards. His
talent must be a gift from one of India’s many Gods.
Asian book review: Raghu Rai’s Delhi
Author: Raghu Rai
Published by: Thames and Hudson
Price: £49.95
ISBN 13: 978-0500543771

Easy Indian Cookbook
This is a large format volume... seriously large but it’s
spiral-bound and this reviewer loves that. What joy! A
book that stays open on the counter. The pages offer a photograph by
William Lingwood for every recipe and the text is big and easily read
and understood. This book does give the impression that it’s going to
live up to its title. To keep you in the right frame of mind, the
publishers have also included a music CD to create the right ambiance
for an exotic meal.
The author Manju Malhi is evidently well supported. Her acknowledgments
read like a Who’s Who of the media food world. AWT, Jeni Barnett, Alan
Coxon, Paul Hollywood to name but a few. Manju has been a regular on
our screens for quite a while and it’s evident that people in the know
have faith in her. That’s a good start, but how about the food?
Well, the dishes look lovely and will be familiar to British restaurant
goers. You’ll be able to prepare many of your favourite Curry House
meals. Not all of these are authentic recipes handed down through
generations since the plaster on the Taj Mahal was still wet, but they
reflect what we have come to expect from an Indian menu. Chicken Tikka
Masala is here and that’s home-grown... that is, a British home!
Easy Indian Cookbook doesn’t assume you know anything about cooking
Indian food. It’s not condescending or patronising but it gives you
lots of basic advice that will be welcomed by the novice. There is a
good glossary of ingredients with Hindi as well as English names and
some basic cooking techniques which will hold no terrors.
The recipe chapters cover everything from chutneys, spice mixtures and
breads to meat and side dishes. There is also a selection of sweet
treats and that’s good to see. It’s often difficult to find an
appropriately exotic end to an Indian meal. The Menus chapter will help
you present a balanced meal combining flavours and textures that will
make you look like you know what you’re doing.
One of the classiest of dishes is Prawn Poori. This isn’t a difficult
recipe, none of them are, but it’s impressive. Pooris are deep-fried
breads that are rich and flaky. The prawns are succulent with a hint of
heat from green chilli. I guarantee that you’ll make this often. It’s
smart comfort food.
Easy Indian Cookbook is a marvellous introduction to Indian cooking. An
attractive book that would make a great gift for anyone who wants to
try their hand at the cuisine we love so much.
Asian cookbook review: Easy Indian Cookbook
Author: Manju Malhi
Published by: Duncan Baird Publishers Ltd.
Price: £16.99
ISBN 978-184483-583-6

India Color – Spirit, Tradition,
and Style
Can there be a land that has given more to style than
India? I admit I have a bias but it is evident that we in the West
and particularly in Britain have long embraced all things Indian.
Melba Levick is the photographer for India Color. She has several
other books under her belt... well, almost 50! She specialises in
travel, architecture, gardens and design and all of those are featured
in this volume to good effect. Melba has the practised eye of one able
to get that shot that tells the whole story, that second of expression
or movement that conveys so much. The text by Mitchell Crites and Amita
Nanji gives context to Melba’s marvellous photographs and elevates this
book from a coffee table curio to a sumptuous travelogue.
This isn’t a 21st century phenomenon. This is a love affair that has
endured for centuries. Victorian ladies spent chilly evenings swathed
in Indian shawls. Indian fabrics were a mainstay at the celebrated
Liberty’s store in London, and Indian paintings have adorned many a
European wall. It’s that combination of design and colour that has
remained traditional and uniquely contemporary.
India Color is a marvellous showcase for those elements that are
familiar yet still exotic. A shop selling nothing but bright bangles
carefully arranged by colour giving the impression of shelves stocked
with glinting rainbows. Trays of silver armlets which need no precious
stones to create a sense of continuity and cultural identity, each
piece being of traditional and regional design.
India Color touches on so many aspects of Indian life and all of them
are overlaid with brilliance. Toys, mirrors, musical instruments,
ceramics, carved stone and wood are all are here in abundance but so
are turbans and saris, and the people themselves - they are the most
vibrant.
Not many countries decorate the livestock as well as does India. An
elephant presents a nice big canvas and looks spectacular with painted
ears, head and trunk, and what could be more evocative of the real
India. A country successfully reaching for modernity whilst maintaining
a grip on all that is amazing from the past. Long may it continue.
India Color is just a glimpse of the tapestry and a lovely glimpse at
that.
Asian book review: India Color – Spirit, Tradition, and Style
Authors: Mitchell Crites and Amita Nanji
Photography by: Melba Levick
Published by: Chronicle Books
Price: £ 17.99
ISBN 978-0-8118-5316-3

Rajasthan – Lonely
Planet
This might be your first big trip and the success of that
adventure might well lay in preparation and planning.
You’ll want to be informed of things to avoid and others not to be
missed. Rajasthan – Lonely Planet is an ideal tool to supply some
travel needs. You’ll want to get the most from this colourful region of
India. Rajasthan – Lonely Planet
So why would you want to go to Rajasthan? Well, why wouldn’t you? It’s
a desert land of forts and palaces. Why do I say it’s colourful? The
people have a love of all things vibrant to contrast the immense areas
of barren land, and that land is the size of Germany!
Lonely Planet have years of experience (they have been around since
1973) and their guidebooks are some of the best. They have expert
researchers who share their advice. They don’t just steer you to the
most celebrated of tourist spots (although you won’t want to miss the
Taj Mahal), they will point you to Sam’s Cafe for a sit down and a nice
cup of chai. You’ll be confident about venturing a little way of the
well-trodden trail because the man from Lonely Planet has been there
before you.
Read “Getting Started” before you get started. It states the obvious
but the obvious is often the first thing that is overlooked. My sister
forgot her passport and had to hide under a coach seat to cross the
border from France to Belgium. There is a handy tip about taking a
torch with a headband, and a universal sink plug. This is essential kit
even when planning a trip to Rome!
It’s a good idea to have some notion of what you want to see when you
get to Rajasthan. Lonely Planet has suggested three classic routes to
consider. The Golden Triangle of just over 700km which will swing you
by Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. Maharaja Circuit (that’s the one for me) is
a loop of 2000km incorporating The Golden Triangle but then takes in
forts and palaces in central Rajasthan. A Month-Long Sojourn is 2500km
and allows you to delve into the spiritual heart of Rajasthan, its less
well-known palaces and spectacular wild life. Truly a tip of a lifetime.
Lonely Planet has stuffed this volume with everything for the
independent traveller. You’ll be able to choose restaurants and hotels
to suit your budget. You’ll be able to order a meal, chat to the waiter
(OK, a very short conversation), and ask for the bill, in Hindi. You’ll
find your way around the extensive public transport system. Buy this
guide in good time and start to plan your dream.
Asian book review: Rajasthan – Lonely Planet
Authors: Lindsay Brown and Amelia Thomas
Published by: Lonely Planet
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978-1-74104-690-8

Anjum's New Indian
Anjum Anand has a very popular second BBC TV series called
Indian Food Made Easy, and this volume contains recipes
from that series. Her last book called Food Made Easy focused
on dishes from the first debut series. That book was an instant best
seller and was one of the top 10 cookbooks for 2007. This book,
however, introduces regional Indian cooking. 
This young woman is attractive, smiley and vivacious. She has taught
many culinarily-impaired Brits how to cook authentic Indian food. Her
series is targeted towards those who are interested in family cooking
rather than restaurant fare that is often unrecognisable from original
dishes.
Although New Indian explores regional cuisine, the chapters are divided
by food type rather than geography. There are chapters on Light Meals
and Snacks, then on to meats and vegetables, Beans and Lentils
etc, to Desserts. Anjum starts with Before You Start which gives advice
on the use of ingredients in the Indian kitchen.
The recipes are lovely and for the most part simple. The accompanying
photographs by Vanessa Courtier are beautiful and help to give this
volume a light modern feel. Anjum gives guidance on buying produce and
spices for each dish. You’ll know what to ask for in an Asian
supermarket.
Many Indians eat no meat at all so it’s no surprise to find so many
vegetarian dishes. Goan Spiced Aubergine is easy and would be a great
side-dish to fried fish. Stir-fried Peas could be used in the same way
or as a filling for samosa, making a lighter snack than those with the
more usual potato and pea stuffing.
Dal of many kinds is eaten by most Indians every day. It’s comfort food
of the highest order and healthy, which is more than you can say for
most dishes we crave. Tarka Dal will be familiar to those who frequent
Indian restaurants. If you enjoy the dal from the local takeaway you
will love the lighter home-made version and it will be a lot cheaper!
Black-eyed Pea Curry is hearty and warming. It only takes 30 minutes if
you use tins of black-eyed peas. That’s almost faster than the takeaway.
You’ll need something to eat with your curry or dal and a favourite is
Roti or Chapatti. I have had a lesson from a professional so I can tell
you it’s far easier than you would imagine to make puffy and soft
breads in just a few minutes. Anjum takes the mystery out of the
process so you’ll be able to present fresh, straight-from-the-pan roti
along with an aromatic Indian meal for your guests. How smart is that?
Anjum has penned a book that reflects our desire to eat Indian food
that would be recognised by Indians. We want healthy, light and
delicious dishes with the minimum of oil but still full of flavour. A
great introduction to Indian regional cooking with a contemporary feel.
Asian cookbook review: Anjum’s New Indian
Author: Anjum Anand
Published by: Quadrille Publishing
Price: £20.00
ISBN 978-1-84400-616-8

Sushi
It’s healthy food. It’s an art form. It’s impressive, and
it’s iconic. People either love it or refuse to try it. Its skill lays
in assembly rather than cooking. Sushi is special. 
Vickie Liley is versatile to say the least. She is a recipe writer,
food stylist and photographer. She is responsible for the majority of
the pictures in this book and they are lovely. She has appeared on TV
and radio. She has penned several other books including Asian Cooking
Companion, The Complete Book of Hot and Spicy Cooking, and Simple and
Delicious Dim Sum, all from Apple Press.
Sushi is becoming more popular in Britain with many supermarkets
selling plastic-wrapped versions. It looks very nice and it’s probably
better for you than a fat-rich sandwich or sausage roll. But sushi is
all about freshness so why not make it yourself. It’s cheaper than
shop-bought and you’ll notice the difference.
As I have said, it’s not complicated cooking but there are some skills
to perfect. This book provides you with everything you’ll need to
select the few items of necessary equipment and the ingredients. There
are practical step-by-step pictures by Alan Benson that will take the
fear out of the process.
In truth it’s several processes depending on the type of sushi, but
you’ll soon master them and then it’s on to the recipes or more
accurately the fillings. Vickie has an attractive selection of classic
sushi that might be familiar to some of you. There are others that are
equally authentic but new to many. Sushi isn’t all about raw fish. You
will find plenty of vegetarian sushi and we won’t know if you make your
own sushi filled with Marmite or strawberries. You can mix and match
combinations of fillings and shapes.
The chapters include Thin-rolled Sushi, Thick-rolled Sushi, Inside-out
Sushi, Hand-rolled Sushi and Stuffed Sushi. There is also a section on
traditional soup to start your Japanese meal. Sushi etiquette is also
discussed as well as information on appropriate drinks.
Vickie Liley illustrates a gorgeous array of delicious fresh sushi that
will be a great introduction to sushi-rolling for the novice, and give
inspiration to the more proficient. Sushi is also an ideal medium tfor
introducing kids to food preparation. I have a young friend (I don’t
insult him by calling him a kid) who mastered the art in just an
evening. He presented us with a dazzling display of fish and vegetable
sushi for the New Year. This book is an ideal gift for anyone
interested in a stylish and guilt-free dining experience. Great value
for money.
Asian cookbook review: Sushi
Author: Vickie Liley
Published by: Apple Press
Price: £10.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-252-2

Contemporary Indian
Cuisine
This is a stunner! Contemporary Indian Cuisine has the
light, airy, modern feel of a French Nouvelle Cuisine
cookbook but still manages to convey the richness of sub-continental
food. Photographer Greg Elms has presented Anil’s food in a clean-cut,
crisp manner which is sometimes almost clinical but always attractive.
Yes, it’s modern but it’s not fusion, which in my humble opinion seldom
works. 
I confess that I had not heard of the author Anil Ashokan but that
should not be considered as a reflection of the man’s skill. My only
excuse is that he exercises those aforementioned skills in Sydney,
Australia and that is about as far from London as you can get. Anil
trained at the much celebrated Taj Mahal hotel in Mumbai and has worked
in several 5-star restaurants around India. He has found further
success with his latest venture, Qmin in Sydney.
Anil Ashokan isn’t an Asian Naked Chef but you might say he is stripped
down to the essentials. His recipes are authentic but he is mindful of
the time constraints of working folks. He gives you permission to use
garlic and ginger pastes from the store, and he doesn’t demand that you
crush whole spices with a stone; a coffee grinder will do.
There are 120 or so recipes which will inspire you. They are
comfortingly simple to prepare and are ideal for those who are new to
preparing Indian food. Anil even offers advice on menus so you’ll have
an idea of what to serve with your Eggplant Lucknow Style. Equally a
well-practised home cook will find some unfamiliar dishes and some
innovations.
Lamb is a popular meat in India and it’s shown to good advantage with
Daalcha (Lentils with Lamb). It’s a winning combination and a good
choice for these days of cost cutting. Any lamb suitable for slow
cooking will work well in this recipe. If you want to push the boat out
then Raan-e-Khyber (Braised Whole Leg of Lamb) is always impressive for
a special meal for guests.
Do Kism Ke Murg Ki Seekh (Tandoori Chicken Two Ways) will appeal to the
lovers of familiar restaurant-style Chicken Tikka Masala. This recipe
is a definite improvement on that “Calcutta Curry House” standard of
luminous, over-sauced poultry. This dish is of succulent chunks of
moist chicken with two separately served sauces. Tandoori Salad and an
Indian bread are all you’ll need to complete this light meal or starter.
Contemporary Indian Cuisine offers one of the largest chapters on
Indian desserts that I have come across. Anil's recipe for a
fruit-filled samosa is so simple that it wins a medal for “Why Didn’t I
Think of That First”. Anjeer Aur Akhrot Ki Kulfi is traditional Indian
ice cream with figs and walnuts. Anil gives two versions so even those
of us without an ice cream maker can still enjoy this frozen treat.
Contemporary Indian Cuisine deserves to be popular. Anil Ashokan has
penned a book that is a marvellous showcase for Qmin and is also a
remarkable volume for anyone with a love of fine Indian food. A delight!
Asian cookbook review: Contemporary Indian Cuisine
Author: Anil Ashokan
Publisher: Apple Press
Price: 14.99
ISBN 978-1-84543-262-1
Shanghai City
Guide – Lonely Planet
Lonely Planet produces some of the most relied-upon and
trusted guides around. The company started in a
small way in 1972. Tony and Maureen Wheeler published the first Lonely
Planet guide to meet the needs of an increasingly mobile and
ever-curious population. Lonely Planet is now the largest independent
travel publisher in the world. These books have been used and abused by
travellers who choose the less travelled road and those who want to get
the best out of the journey.
Shanghai is a unique city that has embodied elements of both East and
West for centuries. It had a reputation in the 1930s as a den of vice
with gang warfare, drugs, jazz and prostitution. Things have changed
and Shanghai is now a mecca for those looking for business
opportunities in the newly prosperous China, but there are still a few
ladies of the night if you look for them... and I am sure you’ll do no
such thing!
There is plenty to keep you occupied in Shanghai and Lonely Planet
offers a handy Itinerary Builder. This allows you, at a glance, to find
sights, shopping, eating, drinking and entertainment in any of the
eight neighbourhoods showcased. The Bund offers The Shanghai Museum,
West Nanjing Road finds the Jade Buddha Temple, and Pudong has the
China Sex Culture Museum (I only went in to ask directions to the
opticians, Mum). If you can’t spend much time in the city then this
table will give a good overview.
Any city can be exhausting so it’s good to consider out-of-town
excursions, and Lonely Planet suggests four. Hangzhou has West Lake
with walks and boat trips to calm you after days of pounding the
pavements. Suzhou will tempt you with the shade of its gardens and the
Silk Museum. The Canal Towns are picturesque with some original Ming
and Qing architecture with those bridges that you’ll no doubt remember
from your Granny’s willow pattern plates. Moganshan is forested with
iconic bamboo, pine and juniper and is always cooler than the city.
Shopping is a major part of any trip and there will be plenty of retail
therapy opportunities. Good buys include silk and tailored clothes.
Pearls can be reasonable but you have to be able to spot the fake.
(Don’t the real ones dissolve in Coke? But the test is a bit
counterproductive.) There are bargains to be had in home
furnishings in most department stores...and IKEA!
Finding food in Shanghai will never be a problem. Eating is a popular
pastime and there are several streets devoted to restaurants. Shopping
Malls have food halls and you shouldn’t be a snob by avoiding chain
restaurants as they are good value and used by tourists and locals
alike.
Lonely Planet has one of the best Shanghai guides available, and the
pull-out map will fit nicely in your pocket. This book will direct you
to a bed, a meal, a bar, some fun and hopefully new friends and
long-lasting memories of a fascinating city.
Asian book review: Shanghai City Guide
Punlished by: Lonely Planet
Price: £12.99
ISBN 978-1-74104-668-7

Korea – Lonely Planet
I know for sure that not many of you, my dear readers,
have visited Korea. It’s a land less explored by
tourists than its near neighbours China and Japan, but it has so much
to offer the traveller. Korean history is rich and turbulent, its food
unique and its culture proud.
Lonely Planet presents a guide that is thoroughly researched and with
the independent traveller in mind. It starts with an overview to help
you make up your mind that you need to go. It’s a vibrant country and
Seoul, the capital, has a reputation as the city that never stops.
There are late-night markets, early-morning cinemas and 24-hour baths –
now that’s a long bath!
The Korean countryside is peppered with charming villages, temples,
rice paddies and National Parks. You might find a Korean phrase book to
be an advantage. It’s less likely you’ll find an English speaker away
from the larger cities but that’s part of the adventure. The whole of
South Korea is small enough to fly across in an hour so you’ll never be
too lost.
Read the “Don’t Leave Home Without...” section before you leave. Check
your socks as you’ll need to take off your shoes to visit private
homes, traditional restaurants and religious buildings. You don’t want
to let yourself down by showing your toes through holes. Practise
parading naked in front of strangers so that you’ll not be embarrassed
when taking a communal bath.
Lonely Planet has designed 5 South Korean and 1 North Korean itinerary
for you. Classic Routes takes 10 days and covers 750km. This takes you
from Seoul in the North to Busan in the south with a trip to the
volcanic island of Ulleungdo on the way.
Honeymoon Island is a 1 week, 300km trip around Jejudo. They will let
you onto the island even if you are not on honeymoon but this resort
has a romantic reputation. Go scuba diving and walk along beaches at
sunset (aaahh), visit waterfalls and take in an amazing Chinese acrobat
show.
Korea is a conservative country and women can sometimes find themselves
in difficulties. The advice here is the same as for most destinations:
dress in a modest fashion, act with dignity and wear a big hat if you
have blonde hair – men might ask if you are a Russian prostitute!
People are, on the whole, pleasant so don’t be put off.
Korea – Lonely Planet is a guide that will steer you away from problems
but will give you sufficient advice for you to be able to plan your
ideal trip and to take advantage of all that Korea has to offer. It’s
not quite China and it’s not quite Japan but it’s very definitely a
Korea in its own right.
Asian book review: Korea
Published by: Lonely Planet
Price: £15.99
ISBN 978-1-74104-558-1

India
If you are about to go off to India then buy this book.
Buy this book and read the first 80 or so pages before you pack, and
then dip into relevant chapters by destination. You will be glad you
did.

Why read the first 80 pages first? Well, it’s not just because they are
at the beginning but because they cover important issues like packing
(that’s why I said, to read this before packing), water purification,
hazards of road travel and money matters (yes, it does!)
The back of the book is also, in my opinion, a “must read sooner rather
than later”, it being Background and Language. The Background chapter
covers history, culture, religion and geography. Language covers, well,
language! It makes a good impression if you can say “thank you” in
Hindi.
This is such a comprehensive book and it covers every place you would
want to go and a few that you wouldn’t. Let’s look at one area and
marvel at the thoroughness of this volume. Stick a pin in the map, dear
reader, and I’ll tell you what the guide says about that location...
Kerala, nice choice! Pages 887 to 959. We start with a map of the
subcontinent and Kerala highlighted, a list of contents for this
chapter and the special Footprint Features which include items like
Don’t Miss, Kerala’s Social Underbelly, Body Language, The Backwaters,
and The Modern Mass Pilgrimage. Other regions have appropriate
Footprint Features, one of the many elements that put these guides
ahead of the others.
The smallest of towns is listed and there is advice on travel, sights,
places to stay (prices indicated), eating (don’t eat the buffet),
shopping and tours. I don’t think anything has been left to chance.
Every detail has been well researched. In Munnar, for instance, you can
visit the Tata Tea Museum, or how about the Elephant Yard in Guruvayur?
The maps are first class and there are lots of them, from regional maps
to city street maps. The transport information is the best I have come
across in this type of guidebook and the detail is amazing, giving bus
routes and frequency, motorcycle hire websites and addresses, rickshaw
and taxi rates and train information. The Footprint Guides are designed
with the independent traveller in mind, and they don’t assume that you
are loaded with cash.
Each area has its own Directory, a comprehensive list of handy
addresses....like a chemist. All guides tell you where to post a
letter (your mum will be lucky if she gets a postcard), but you need to
know where to go if you get sick or, more important, if you need to
check your email! It’s all in this guide.
This is your “Big Trip” and you want to get as much out of it as
possible. You only want to carry one book so let this be the one.
Asian book review: India
Authors: Annie Dare and David Stott
Published by: Footprint
Price: £14.99
ISBN 978 1 906098 05 6

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Indian Festivals 2010
August
Tue 24 - Raksha Bandhan
September
Thur 2 - Janmashtami -
Krishna Jayanti
Sat 11 - Ganesh Chaturthi
October
Fri 8 - Navaratri (start)
Sun 17 - Dussera
November
Fri 5 - Diwali
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